1st Day out – riding chairlift – some new snow but choppy and mostly hardpack some crusty chowder in the trees. – I like it. Did everything I wanted it to – maybe not super snappy but a great solid ride
2nd day out – snowkiting – hardpack + light wind. Went upwind great felt great under the kite & cut through the hardpack holding the edge just fine. Didn’t act real poppy but the wind was light so its hard to say it was the board.
3rd day out – backcountry – decent powder. Very nice – I like it a lot. Breaks trail nice and handles steep solid skintrack just fine. If it was super deep I may be losing some performance but for the powder that was there it rode great – no thigh burn. Great solid board.
Overall – I got this board hoping for a do-it-all ride understanding I’d lose some performance at the extremes. So far its everything I wanted it to be.
After 3 months(almost) of B/C variables, snowkiting, and 2 days lift/slackcountry riding I honestly haven’t had this board in a circumstance where I wished for something different. It just always seems to feel right – steeps, powder, hardpack, kiting, splitting. Maybe its not super “poppy” if you’re doing lots of hucks and monster airs but that’s not me anyway. Construction is bomber quality….just 1 issue:
The sintered base is maybe so tough its hard to get any repairs to “stick” to the minimal scratches. These were done kiting so mostly along the heelside edge and can be tolerated as-is but I’ve tried my p-tex ribbons with the soldering iron type tool and have tried using g-flex 650. 1st trip out after repair everything seems to pop out. Techy at g-flex suggested using a torch(propane) and swiftly moving it over the base areas and this creates a reaction in the plastics that will allow the epoxy to adhere better(not heating to warm the surface – its a carbon reaction he says). Has anyone had luck with g-flex in this way? Is there some better way to fill scratches on these bases? Just trying to keep this thing in prime condition – see it being my only board for many years ahead. Venture didn’t think the torch idea was so good….anyone tried?
Epoxy is more for edge / sidewall type repairs and can be used for some deep core-shots in and around the edge, or somewhere there are other plastics to bond to. Epoxy needs more epoxy (or metal & plastic) to bond to. Filling a scratch (shallow scratch, not a core shot) with epoxy may never hold. Coreshots near the edge / Sidewall, where you can cutout the ragged part and create a deep & symmetrical void to fill is where epoxy will work well.
P-Tex (clear or black depending on your base material color) should be used to fill scratches or gouges. It should be heated up and applied, either by a P-Tex gun or a blow torch. This should allow the P-Tex to “drip and flow” into the scratches and the bond and harden to the base P-Tex. Done properly it should not come out on its own. The exception is the skin glue can pull it out sometimes.
Base welds (ie Coreshots) use a require a thicker P-Tex base material to repair. The drip type P-tex is too thin and will run before they fill the gouge to the top to be level with the base.
Additionally if you do not drip the P-tex with even heat, you can get carbon (that black coloration) in the P-Tex. This is a contaminant and will interfere with the bonding. If you drip it with a lot of carbon, peel it out and do it again until it is clear.
Using a torch / heatgun on your base can create problems of its own (cooking, bubbling and separation). While it sometime helps the epoxy thin and absorb into nearby plastics, excessive heat can help unbond the glue/resin/fiberglass bond that was created when the board was pressed
Thanks! I dug through my repair supplies & found I had a couple of drip candles – definitely works better than the ribbons/soldering gun for this base. 12″-20″ in the forecast for tonight :headbang: – could be time to test my craftsmanship.