Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)
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  • #570102
    39 Posts

    After much hemming and hawing, I’ve taken the first step.

    Now, I just have to decide if I’ll mount the kits myself or have a ski tech handle it. I’ll definitely be tracking down some of those T-Nuts with ptex.

    On another note … let me suggest when cutting boards that, in additon to safety goggles, wear shoes, pants, long sleeve shirt and gloves.

    I am feeling some fiberglass itchyness this AM. Heh.

    753 Posts

    Great work. I too was wearing inadequate coverage for the fiberglass and really got the itch. How did you enjoy ripping those burton feelgood’s inserts? Pain in the rear, but it looks like you managed just fine.

    I have seen a few boards with the ptex covered inserts, definately the way to go! I’m going to redo my DIY split and probably split one for my wife and use the covered t nuts.

    39 Posts

    @mumbles wrote:

    How did you enjoy ripping those burton feelgood’s inserts? Pain in the rear, but it looks like you managed just fine.

    The wife loves her Feelgood, and we found one on eBay for real cheap so despite the inserts, it was on!

    Those things caused a lot of trepidation, but I sacked up and sawed on through. They did heat up pretty good and left some little burn marks on the core, but they look fine.

    I’m stoked to be on my way … it’s been a while since I read up on “all things DIY split” so I’l be lurking around here more in the near future.

    39 Posts

    So, I blew out my ACL on Memorial Day Weekend, and because I was missing out on the Camp Pendleton Mud Run and a Mt Humphries backpacking trip, any thought of outdoor activity has been a serious downer this summer.

    But yesterday I took another step on my DIY split journey … I got me some epoxy!

    I think this is the same stuff jbh used … West Marine in Newport Beach, $25.99.

    I also realized that when I sawed through the end of both boards, the metal edges bent and require some kind of repair. I’ll have to sort that out because I’ve pretty much decided I’ll install the kits myself. So, be advised would-be DIYers … as others have mentioned, a dremel or other more precise cutting tool should be used at the tips.
    I’m thinking of using these for mounting the pucks/touring brackets:

    Here’s a question … does every hole need to be t-nutted? I posted up Jon Dahl’s base, for example. It doesn;t look like all attachment points are t-nuts. It is looking like a preference thing, but if anyone would like to share their ideas or what not?

    I think his configuration makes a lot of sense … would probably just do that. Anyways, I’m suppposed to be grilling up some brats and cleaning my garage so I can do this project. I wonder how this is going to work out?

    Jon Dahl
    384 Posts

    Really recomend that all the pivots be t-nutted. On that one of mine, I have found from personal experience that the front puck sees a lot more stress in a wipeout that the rear puck. That explains why you only see two per puck on the rear, and three on the fronts. Voile only uses two per puck on the factory splits, I guess I am just kinda anal about things. 😆

    39 Posts

    I keep acquiring bits n’ things … still need to clean garage.

    19 Posts

    where’d you score those inserts?

    39 Posts

    @toddo wrote:

    where’d you score those inserts?

    I think ski-werks might be their retail side. I had someone with a tax ID buy these, but I don’t think it was actually necessary. There’s an 800 number under Contact Us.

    Jimmy T
    13 Posts

    I was just wondering on how well those ptex tee nuts worked? Were you able to easily bond them into your base?

    39 Posts

    Ha, I lag.

    I’ve just put down the second layer of epoxy on the exposed edges, and I want to sand lightly and re-apply one more coat. I want that edge as sealed and bonded as possible. I should be drilling tomorrow.

    I’m the master of second guessing … or is it due diligence? 😆

    39 Posts

    The edges look bomber on the Winterstick and Feelgood which are the ‘production boards’ so I drilled on the Rossignol for the pivot hooks as a trial run. It came together with a tight fit but wouldn’t line-up quite perfectly.

    I’ve since cleaned up the counter-sink holes and ‘straightened’ a couple holes that seemed askew (a couple inside screws with the bushings … they looked like they were preventing the pivot hook from fully extending). I think I should’ve just cleaned up the counter-sink holes because they appeared to be the main offender as far as pitching the screws askew. I was able to shrink the gap but now the halves fit more loosely (I think because the ‘straightening’, actually widening).

    Now, I’m stymied because I want to do it differently for the ‘production’ boards. I taped the sticker guide into place so I could re-use it, but I am pretty sure I will go ahead and apply them next time. I know I need to make sure the holes are perfectly perpendicular and balance the counter-sink more carefully, but other than that, I’m not so sure.

    It’s even more daunting because, for whatever reason, it looks like the Winterstick and Feelgood are going to be hard to get together at the nose and tail. I thought about applying the stickers individually and trying to bring the halves together once the hooks are installed, but now I am not so sure. :scratch:

    39 Posts

    I think the touring bracket needs to be a little more ahead of the ‘pivot point’. Since this is a 155, the rear pucks ended up real close to the climbing pad. If this was a ‘production’ plank, I’d be a little bummed. But you can still get to the slider pin, it’s just a little inconvenient. The Feelgood is a 156 so I need to keep the touring bracket and climbing pad location in mind. Mine is a 159 so it should be OK … I’ll still be careful, though.

    I did one bonehead move. I tapped out locations for the pucks without checking their relation to existing hardware. For this job, I just used wood screws in the locations close to the existing inserts. I’ll pay more attention going forward. You’ll see I only have the wood screws per puck here. I think it makes sense to drill-out and install pucks with the wood screws to make sure your pucks will accept the slider plate. I plan to use 3 t-nuts up front and 2 in the back. For the next installations, I’ll repeat this process because I’d rather fill and re-drill wood screw holes, rather than the 3/4″ holes required for the t-nuts.

    All in all, I’m pretty happy with how this is coming together. It’s giving me a lot of confidence for my next installations. :thatrocks:

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