Forums DIY and Mods Split your deck for $110 Viewing 18 posts - 1 through 18 (of 18 total) Author Posts May 24, 2006 at 8:32 pm #567874 ddegraaf 50 Posts Guy who does a great job splitting boards for cheap! email@example.com http://www.mnttechnologies.com/ Splits boards, upgrades split components (screws etc), fixes dings, dents and holes. Check it out. May 24, 2006 at 10:50 pm #589035 jack 323 Posts i dont mean to flame you at all, but i think this may tip the balance… split it= 110 skins= 130 crampons= 75 interface= 130 total = $445 and if you didnt buy a new board (another $400), you no longer have a solid. on the other hand, you can buy a used factory split in good condition for around $500. like i said, if you dont have a table saw, go for it, but is it really economically worth $110 for someone to split a board? May 25, 2006 at 12:06 am #589036 jimw 1421 Posts Assuming you’ve already decided to split a board, then the decision comes down to whether or not it’s worth it to you to spend $110 to have someone else do the job. Factor in the amount of time it would take you, and what that time is worth to you. Also consider that the people doing it presumably have a lot of experience with the job, and peace of mind knowing it’s going to come out right. On the other hand, there’s a lot to be said for doing something yourself. Personally I’ve gone the split kit route myself once, and it was a great learning experience, but I’m considering going this route next time for the convenience. May 25, 2006 at 12:32 am #589037 Jon Dahl 384 Posts I’ll split your board using my table saw jig for $25. Adding taper will be more, of course, ’cause you are talking three cuts instead of one, and I hate the math!! 😈 Of course, then you have the lack of inserts to deal with, and the risk of ripping out the ski screws if you overstress the bindings…… I think I will buy a factory built board next, even though I’ve done the insert the board thing myself. Just have to find the perfect shape. May 25, 2006 at 12:42 pm #589038 affix snow 521 Posts Didnt we see this before? I agree, buy a used factory split. If you can save up the $400 or whatever, cut back on beer and weed and save the other $100 or so to buy used……….. 🙄 May 25, 2006 at 2:03 pm #589039 InTheMountains 216 Posts @affix snow wrote: cut back on beer and weed and save the other $100 or so to buy used………. now yer talkin crazy talk… May 25, 2006 at 3:16 pm #589040 Ecobrad 2068 Posts @inthemountains wrote: @affix snow wrote: cut back on beer and weed and save the other $100 or so to buy used………. now yer talkin crazy talk… 😆 😆 Yeah, more like cut out driving, fancy food, and new gear. May 25, 2006 at 7:03 pm #589041 ddegraaf 50 Posts Wow- great input I guess. I’m not retarded 🙂 …but thought this might be useful for someone who doesn’t own tools, lives in an apartment, and has an old deck to cut up to start out. As far as spending $350+ on the split components- that’s what ebay/ski swaps are for. Frankly I haven’t seen a great deal on any factory split boards. If anyone has found a great deal on a prior (168 or so) I’d appreciate it! May 25, 2006 at 8:21 pm #589042 SanFrantastico 1514 Posts @jack wrote: split it= 110 skins= 130 crampons= 75 interface= 130 total = $445 I don’t think you can include the crampons in that calculation, because they aren’t included in any factory split options… Is that $110 just for the cut, or is the other hardware (touring brackets, tip clips, etc) mounted as well? I do live in an apartment and I have crappy tool access. Current pricing on Voile’s site for the kit/skins is $150/$150. So it’s really like $410 + board + shipping for a custom split. That doesn’t seem too crazy if it comes out perfect and I don’t have to drill any extra holes or glue anything. Still, I was able to find a used Freeride for under $500 earlier in the season… Putting the poo in swimming pool since 1968. May 25, 2006 at 9:04 pm #589043 jimw 1421 Posts I’ll split your board using my table saw jig for $25. Making the cut is just one small part of the process. In my experience the rest of the process takes way longer. I’m thinking of sending my already-cut board to them to finish! Again, assuming you can afford it, it comes down to whether it’s worth it to you to have someone else with experience and the right tools do it for you, basically guaranteeing a good result, vs. the time you put into it, what you learn in the process, the possibility of messing up, etc. I like the fact that they use inserts for everything, and know how to fill the resultant holes in the base. More info here: http://talk.splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=2414 May 25, 2006 at 10:22 pm #589044 Jon Dahl 384 Posts Yeah, but you need to know EXACTLY where you want your bindings before you insert the board, and you get no second chances at fine tuning. Ideally, you ride the board solid extensively then when you are dialed in, split it and insert the bindings. Repairs to the base are easy enough, using base repair material to cut insert sized “dots” out of. Talked to a guy up here who was going to split one for a customer, and he was going to put in a short underfoot section of edge on the insides of each half. I think any experienced ski tech could do all the operation for you, including anything reasonably custom you wanted done. $110 is probably a fair price for all of the above, considering the labor intensive nature of the project. Oh, just looked at the website again, I don’t think inserting the board is included in that price. Someone may wish to email them and find out. Inserting my board was more labor intensive than any other step. May 30, 2006 at 9:04 pm #589045 ddegraaf 50 Posts well this guy was recommended to me by a board company out of Jackson Hole. He is an engineer and does a great job I’m told- exact to the mm. Good communication and I’d trust him over a stoner at the local shop. Just an idea to people again w/out power tools or the balls to cut a deck themselves or the free time. I understand the ease to buy used, but when you’re talking $500 for a used deck that you don’t know the history of….kinda skethy in my mind. I’d rather use a deck I’ve rode before and feel comfortable on. Again- most used factory splits I’ve seen are upward of $750 and aesthetically look like shite. June 6, 2006 at 4:48 am #589046 rush 6 Posts Anyone know of anyone close to Ft Collins who has put on hardware for a board. I have split a Salomon Fastback 167, but am a little nervous about putting on the hardware. Who is the guy from Jackson Hole? What would he charge? June 6, 2006 at 3:21 pm #589047 ddegraaf 50 Posts I think the guy is in WA or OR. Link to his website is at the top of this forum. Illuminati snowboards (what I ride) is based outta Jackson Hole. When I talked to them about splitting one of their boards to find out how it rode, they gave me this guys contact info. I guess he’s an engineer so the constrution of a split deck will be pretty precise and professional. Here’s his email. Charges about $110 to split and mount hardware etc. I’ve had good communication with him and he says there is a very short turn around time (few days). Dean Whitehead – firstname.lastname@example.org Good luck. July 29, 2006 at 10:34 am #589048 fusionmeat 24 Posts Thanks everyone for the positive exposure, especially ddegraaf for starting the thread. We here at http://www.mnttechnologies.com have been fairly busy with orders, mostly ski/snowboard repairs. Our specific types of services are hard to google; i.e. how many people search for the key words Ã¢â‚¬Å“mail order splitboard assembly?Ã¢â‚¬Â July 29, 2006 at 7:02 pm #589049 jimw 1421 Posts @fusionmeat wrote: @jon Dahl wrote: I’ll split your board using my table saw jig for $25. Adding taper will be more, of course, ’cause you are talking three cuts instead of one, and I hate the math!! 😈 Of course, then you have the lack of inserts to deal with, and the risk of ripping out the ski screws if you overstress the bindings…… I think I will buy a factory built board next, even though I’ve done the insert the board thing myself. Just have to find the perfect shape. Of course a board with the nose/tail the same width is ideal for ease of cutting, one with a wider nose than tail does NOT require multiple cuts. The difference in the nose/tail size must be split and accounted for during the marking of the center line. I am not sure what Ã¢â‚¬Å“lack of insertsÃ¢â‚¬Â August 2, 2006 at 7:54 pm #589050 FLOWTORCH 159 Posts Rush- Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder does a pretty good job August 12, 2006 at 10:30 am #589051 fusionmeat 24 Posts This is very interesting! Some of us have played around with this on the old style Burton splits (Exhibit A, and Exhibit B). On mine, it basically worked, but I couldn’t quite get the stance width I originally had. You’re saying you think you can do this on all regular boards? How would you do this for a Burton, with their triangular insert pattern where you have to cut through most of the inserts (the ones down the center line) when doing the cut? Jimw, thanks for doing some leg work on this topic! After some testing and custom additions to the universal pucks, we have found that we can NOT feasibly make the universal pucks work with a custom split snowboards’ factory inserts. We crafted a spacer so to speak for the universal pucks which induced the appropriate offset for the binding slider but it ended up being weak and expensive. We are currently reverse engineering a template to allow the universal pucks to be installed on a split snowboard, but you must use inserts. So in the future, when you have your board split by us at Mountain and Terrain Technologies, you can have the option of the universal pucks or the fixed angle pucks. Viewing 18 posts - 1 through 18 (of 18 total) You must be logged in to reply to this topic.