Forums Bindings Spark R&D Spark R&D now in Broduction, official preorder list
Viewing 20 posts - 61 through 80 (of 147 total)
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  • #600786
    377 Posts

    These pins are designed primarily to install from the inside, as my leashes are different. I’m actually using the flex of the toe strap as part of the leash length, and a short run of cord to give enough room to pull the leashes out. The goal is a leash that doesn’t have any slack when you’re strapped in for both modes, so there’s nothing to get snagged.

    Here’s the pin installed with no leash slack:

    Here’s the pin almost pulled all the way out, see how the leash and the strap work together to allow the pin to be removed:

    I updated my setup tips page with options for people whose rear pin is hitting the heel rest, here’s the new info
    8. Having the pins insert from the inside in board mode works for most riders. If your pins hit the heel rests because you have a forward angle on your rear foot there are a few options for you.

    A. Switch your right and left bindings. The Spark R&D baseplates and the bent metal highbacks are symmetric, so there’s no difference between the right and left feet. The straps are nearly symmetric as well. It might look weird, but it should feel normal.

    you can switch your feet back for touring mode so your buckles don’t catch on each other.

    B. Rather than switch bindings, you can switch just the toe straps:

    This version may be a little easier to strap in to than (A) as you can reach the heel buckle a little easier. A disadvantage may be the toe strap buckles hitting each other while in tour mode.

    C. You can switch the left and right pins on the bindings so they insert from the outside. The pins can be removed by removing the toe buckles, the screw in there holds the leash on. I suggest girth hitching the leash through one of the unused toe strap attachment holes like so:

    pass the leash through the hole:

    pass the pin through the loop:

    pull tight and you’re good to go. Rig the leash so it’s underfoot while skinning, that way it won’t snag on anything:

    D. Rig pins like (C) except without leashes altogether. This option is my least favorite because it is easier to drop a pin in the backcountry, which could ruin a good day of touring.

    E. You could also change your stance so the pins work as shipped, if only a minor adjustment is needed.

    In other news, I’m now shipping all of my bindings with loctite. Hopefully this gets rid of the disappearing hardware trick.

    I had a good tour up Mt. Ellis yesterday with the Fiance and Pip. Pip and I were both on loctited ignitions and didn’t have any hardware issues. We ran into lifelinksplit (who doesn’t work at lifelink and like me looks like a hippy) and bridgerhippy (who does work at lifelink and doesn’t really look like hippy) and their really stoked out friend on his first day on fritchis. Good to see a customer enjoying their new toy lifelinksplit, I’ll be looking forward to more of your input as far as the contrast between your hardbooting rig. Have a good one folks!

    141 Posts


    Did you anodize your Chinese hooks?



    Got my binders yesterday (thanks for the welcome!) and set up my split while I drank HighLife and watched my Steelers lose (boo). They are slick as shit and I can’t wait to get on them. Thanks for being the man. Big pow day today at CB so I rode the lifts.:oops:

    My size 12 burton driver X fit in just fine after I maxed out all the adjustments.


    4150 Posts


    Why would you recommend running your strap buckles on the inside of your foot? 😯

    This goes against the design of snowboard bindings in general and would result in an uncomfortable ride. You want the buckles of your straps on the outside of your feet so you have a nice smooth strap running on the inside of your foot. That way when you ride and naturally lean your knees inward the bindings (and straps) have a nice even and comfortable flex.

    Sure you could run the buckles on the inside but its not something I’d recommend.

    Here’s my solution and recommendation. 💡

    F. Run the pins on the outside of your binding (with or without a leash).
    Done. 😀

    377 Posts

    brg: of course! It’s hard not to anodize anything aluminum a silly color when you own an anodizing line. I’m rocking one color on the right side of my board and another on the left, theoretically to reduce head scratching during transitions, and for a little bit of hey look at that.

    BSOE: You’re the man! I’m so glad you’re back in the USA in one piece. Thanks for hanging it out for us in Iraq. Let’s figure out a way for us to shred this year.

    BCR: Well, how about because it works. I’m glad you’re happy with your setup. I prefer to have everyone rocking leashes because losing a pin would suuuuuuuck. I think buckles are placed on the outside because they are easier to work with, but I don’t think with modern straps and boots that you could really feel any difference in the ride or flex. Take the taste test and let me know what you think. I’m very utilitarian, and an out of the box thinker, I don’t really care what everyone else in the binding world is doing. I think a quick experiment beats hours and hours of armchair engineering.

    That’s my story and I’m sticking to it. Thank again everybody, it’s been a great kickoff to ’08.

    753 Posts

    Will, the main reason that the buckles are outboard is that it is a more natural motion of the hand to sweep the buckles to release. It is less of a natural move to sweep them from the inside unless you sweep with the opposite hand.

    BCR, placing the pins on the outside is a great and simple idea (and from your other posts you genearlly remove the pin leashes anyway, right?).

    I’m happy to have the leashes for now, until I’m not only a crusty old rider, but a crusty old split rider. Losing one pin could put a damper on things (unpacking your spare would be a pain in the ass…so long as you have a spare). Not having a spare would suck beyond description.

    Will, from the read of things I’m glad to see you got some ride time in, all work and no play would take the spark out of spark r and d.

    377 Posts

    Mumbles: Agreed, see my comments on option B above. BTW, were you in Sierra Nevada during the winter of 2001? I took a three week vacation that year and we totally lucked out, they had the most snow that they’d ever had apparently (and passes that were really easy to, um, manually update with a sharpie). It was going off, huge dumps every couple days. That resort has more lips an drops than I’ve ever seen, and you can see Morocco from the summit! An amazing place, I’d love to go back.

    We’ve gotten more dyes in for the anodizing setup:

    Binders with black baseplates and green horseshoes (the lower sheetmetal piece) would like sick!

    Also, I do have two demo sets of bindings together now, if you’re in Bozeman and want to check them out look me up. Cheers!

    81 Posts

    well, to me it seems like running your pins on the outside is the way to go if you have a + angle on the rear foot, or just at all. my current voile pins are set up like that. seems like the only problem with this is a little slack in the leash (not that big a problem imo). so how about this…bungee cord for the leash. it streches enough to get the pin in, then pulls all the slack out itself. this what i think i’m going to use. i don’t like the frayed metal wire on my current setup. i definatly recommend the leashes though. there are enough parts flying around during the transition, and my 2 little pins are not something i wanna worry about. for what its worth, just yesterday my leash broke on mr rear foot. i didn’t see this when i pulled the binding off, and it broke when i shoved the binding onto the puck, send ing the pin flying into the snow (which is as of today 80″ deep..hell yeah). took me like 2 min of searching to find it…i didn have an extra in my repair kit, but still, losing parts in the backcountry is no bueno. point of this all is…no leashes=lost pins very easily. anyhow, time to get out of here. 6″ last night…still blower up there.going to make more turns. have fun at work guys 😆

    Unruly Baker
    333 Posts

    What’s the deal with spare parts? Mainly the pins. I’m the type of person that always has spares and I’d like one spare of each pin.


    2068 Posts

    @Unruly Baker wrote:

    What’s the deal with spare parts? Mainly the pins. I’m the type of person that always has spares and I’d like one spare of each pin.


    Me too.

    753 Posts

    Will, I was stationed in Rota Spain twice (thank you taxpayers of the United States) to work as a solo technical provider with a specialty in Pathology. There was enough work to do but not enough to fill my time, so I was very out and about while there. I was there from Jan 90 to Jan 93 and again from Dec 97 to Dec 00. I missed the big 2001 season, but a few of my friends rocked it early and often. One of those was with me the winters of 92 and 99 and said the snow was very comparable and I considered those two years very nice. I wish I would have had a split then because I would have always been over the ridge of Mt. Blanc and into the bowl on the backside. Hiking out via the long cat track or bootpacking up the steep lift track was a real bear. Due to the hard work we only hit it when it was open on the backside or when we were feeling frisky and up for a tough hike out. When we did that we always boot packed up the steep lift track and waited for the groomers to prep the snow for the next morning…and as soon as they finished we poached the hell out of that soft southern spanish snow (say that three times fast).

    Great location, one that I could retire to, or at least visit again.

    121 Posts

    Here is my set up. Thank you Will!!!!!! I havent been this stoked in years. I had to drill out the back holes to accomadate the Bent Metal double bolt but that was minor. The Burton Cap Straps have a place to loop the pin lanyard so I was able to keep them on the outside. Next stop Revelstoke for 3 weeks. First major trip in 3 years.

    753 Posts

    rms56 rocking the sparks and cants, very nice. Shows that everyone appreicates a dialed in ride. I’m actually contemplating trying some cants as well. Nice setup, enjoy the three weeks at STOKE.

    377 Posts

    Lookin’ good rms! You’ll have to send us some shots from the ‘stoke. I’ll update this a little later about spares and some other news. Cheers y’all!

    643 Posts

    I just got mine in the mail and they look super sweet! It’ll be a few day till I can try them out but I can’t wait. These thing look really nice WIll, I’ll give you a review after I get to try them out.

    PS, Holly shit that was a ton of duct tape on the box, the lady at my apt office was laughing when she brought it out 😆

    377 Posts

    Yeah I finally got one of those shipping tape dispensers after being made fun of by the other people around the shop. I did want to get some kind of sticker that said “proudly duct taped in the USA”, oh well I guess I’m just a sellout.

    If you order just baseplates be prepared for some interesting packaging, we reuse all of the boxes from random stuff we order around the shop. I figure you guys aren’t buying these for the packaging.

    1669 Posts

    Puff Nattie calls me: “There is a package here for you with a TON of duct tape around it.”

    Powderjunkie says: “Sweet. Those are my Spark baseplates.”

    Set up looks great. PN wants some too. She has size 7 women’s boot, but with her smaller BM straps, I think it will work for her.

    She may be ordering some baseplates very soon.

    358 Posts

    @Will wrote:

    If you order just baseplates be prepared for some interesting packaging, we reuse all of the boxes from random stuff we order around the shop. I figure you guys aren’t buying these for the packaging.

    Hurray for treehugging!

    1114 Posts


    Thanks Will !!!


    Those red ones look bad ass – Will can I trade in my Black ones?


    Rode my Mojo 171 in area today for a few hours with the Sparks.

    Heavy strap usage on my back foot did cause the loss of a nylock on the toe strap. Found out the reason for loss of hardware mainly on the toe straps: Two different ladder widths on each side yet same bolt length. The adjustable side is thicker plastic yet mervin uses the same length bolt – thus the nylock nut doesn’t get to thread down far enough to keep it from backing off. The mervin bolt does thread into the the nylon bite of the nut but apparently not enough. These were the two nuts consistently backing off for me – the thicker toe strap on each foot.

    I just happened to buy some stainless back up bolts and nuts yesterday. I erred on the side of a bit of extra length on my bolts and I think the longer bolt and a bit of loctite will permanently solve this issue. Really tho, I don’t even think the loctite is nec. as all my bolts of decent length (~1/8″ of bolt extending beyond nylock) had been holding fine.

    Edit: didn’t see lewmt had addressed a solution to the wider toe strap issue already – anyway that’s was what I did. I did notice the stainless metric nuts I picked up had a bit more beef of nylon/steel compared to mervin’s and after installing felt I had a more trustworthy fastener than the mervin stock part for the toe strap fwiw.

Viewing 20 posts - 61 through 80 (of 147 total)

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