Forums Bindings Spark R&D Spark R&D now in Broduction, official preorder list
Viewing 20 posts - 41 through 60 (of 147 total)
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  • #600766
    bcrider
    4150 Posts

    @DentalFlossTycoon wrote:

    bcrider, I notice you have a fair amount of extra material below the fulcrum point of your modified highback, does that interfere when collapsing the highback (folding it down)? I imagine you created a new fulcrum point for proper alignment with the missionary by redrilling, correct?

    Also, did you have to use a non burton ladder to attach them to this system (mount holes through the base of the ladder) or did you mod by drilling your own holes through the burton ladder?

    I’m happy with the missionary highbacks at the moment (i did use the padding kit have a pretty well used soft boot where I felt the hotspot) but your mod is good info for the future if I end up trying something with a burton highback/straps.

    I never have really been a Mervin binding fan (always rode burton binders/boots) but have to say I was surprised how much I didn’t mind the Mervin minimalist system. Until it shows me serious drawbacks I’ll continue to ride these Sparks stock. fwiw.

    Yes I need to finish modding the highback so it folds down. I held off just in case I didn’t like them on the Sparks (once cut they can not be used on the burton baseplates again.

    I used the existing hole on the heel cup to attach the highback and in-step strap in the same manner that the BM’s attach. Easy.

    For the ladder, I just made the burton ladder flush and drilled through it.

    Re Mervin’s design philosophy and minimalist approach. For splitboarding this works well which is partly why I think Will went with them. I’m all for simple and minimal but I also like functional tech. One thing BM could use (across their line) is better, self-locking hardware (or longer screws).

    #600767

    I’m with ya there – almost too “Ace Hardware” of a design in that regard.

    my nylocks continue to back off a bit

    #600768
    stomppow
    150 Posts

    which year C60’s are those? have they changed for this year?

    #600769
    cowboy
    35 Posts

    Will, again nice job. I was out with Don from Voile who used a pair on a tour yesterday. I liked the look of them and the weight is outstanding. He did have one nut come loose on one of the straps. A minor issue. If they last the test of numerous long days of use you’ll have a winner.

    #600770
    Will
    377 Posts

    If the biggest complaint you guys have is about the hardware I can deal with that! I would think a little loctite would help any slippery bolts. I may be able to put together a better fastener kit and put that out too it they are really annoying. The flip side about the ace hardware design is that you guys can just go down to ace hardware and buy spares, when binders come with all custom hardware and you lose or break something it can be a real pain to get new ones. Anway, time to get stuffed on mom’s cooking and read stories to little kids. Merry Christmas everybody!

    #600771
    blue
    15 Posts

    Oh yeah, I can’t wait to get mine!!!!! Let me know when to send payment for a full pair Will!

    Thanks brother,
    Blue

    #600772
    karma surf
    191 Posts

    Took the Ignitions out for 2 days of pow. I’m totally stoked. I have C60’s, and I prefer the Bent Metal highback, no need for me to dink with the stock highbacks. I dig the quick forward lean adjustment (C60’s don’t have this capability)- there’s no need to compromise on setting one single angle for the ups and downs. I love toe cap straps, but the Bent Metal straps are very comfy and plush. The new Driver X is soooo stiff that there’s no way for there to be any hot spots on the highback for me. I also like the highback flex I get from these rather than the ultra stiff carbon on the C60’s.
    Don’t like the slider pin cord, removed them right away, and I run my pins opposite of the way the Sparks guys set them up from the shop. Impossible to put the rear foot pin in when you run a + angle on the back foot- the climbing bar block is in the way (not an issue for a duck rider). I do want to carry spare pins (they are L/R specific, so spare parts require 2 pins) as I could foresee losing one.

    Great weight difference, especially noticeable (1 whole lb!) on the downs for me- hop turns etc!

    Will you rock Bro, thanks much, this is my go to set up now doooooooooood ❗
    😀 😀

    #600773

    @Will wrote:

    If the biggest complaint you guys have is about the hardware I can deal with that! I would think a little loctite would help any slippery bolts. I may be able to put together a better fastener kit and put that out too it they are really annoying. The flip side about the ace hardware design is that you guys can just go down to ace hardware and buy spares, when binders come with all custom hardware and you lose or break something it can be a real pain to get new ones. Anway, time to get stuffed on mom’s cooking and read stories to little kids. Merry Christmas everybody!

    Well, hardly a comment on your design Will, I back this system 100%. I speak of the hardware that holds the straps on only, the heel cup to baseplate u bolts are holdin tight. And indeed, It”s a plus to have the simplicity where I can get spares/replacements from my local hardware store – which will certainly cost a lot less than a hardware specific part made by the manufacturer.

    Once again, great job on this design!

    #600774
    Will
    377 Posts

    Alright I’m back from Minnesota, recharged and ready to crank production. To those of you that emailed me last week I’ll get back at ya in the next few days once I dig out my inbox, it overfloweth. Have a happy new year everybody!

    Cheers,
    Will

    #600775
    lewmt
    570 Posts

    Gave up on getting any decent snow at home & travelled to get some. 2 1/2 days of amazing dumps & breaking trail. Not huge vert-days but plenty of workout in the new binders.

    Not sure if its my imagination or what – but – it seems like its easier with the Ignitions to break trail in deep powder. With heel risers up it seems like the tips come up & break through to the top easier than the old conventional plate/binder rig. Maybe its because the toe is attached directly & at lower aspect to the board than the old set-up??? Anyone else notice this?

    Like the pins & the way they latch in.
    No hot spots at all in 3 yr. old Nitro boots.
    Highbacks are as good or better than my old Rides.

    So far – no issues I can see – but then I’m old & slow & don’t see so well

    #600776
    bcrider
    4150 Posts

    Lost a nut off the toe strap yesterday right before dropping. I didn’t have an extra one or a very good repair kit (zip ties) so I rigged some bungee cord I stole off of my beacon. Worked well enough to get me down and up for another lap.

    I guess its my own fault for not constantly checking the nuts but I think I’ll look for some longer screws and get the repair kit more in line too.

    Still lovin the performance and weight savings, they seem to be getting more broken in as well (getting them on and off the pucks).

    #600777
    Will
    377 Posts

    Arrrgh! Be sure to check that hardware often since it likes to loosen up. I’ll get something else worked out for future versions. In the meantime grab some blue loctite from the hardware store (or red if you really want it on there). The nut is an M6 x 1 (metric), get one with the vinyl insert so it’s less likely to rattle loose. Are those burton parts thicker so you couldn’t fully get the nut on there?

    I’m glad you’re pumped on the performance, I am too 😀

    #600778
    lewmt
    570 Posts

    I lost that same nut on the toe strap yesterday – robbed the front nut off the screw that holds the heel-cup to the base plate…since it’s a U-screw you only have to have 1 nut there to function & it saved the trip.

    #600779

    No loss of nuts or hardware for me but this is my reminder to head down to the merc and get some loctite and extra nylocks nuts today.

    I also had a notion about perhaps using a thin and small flat washer to go against the strap coupled with a split ring washer between the nut and flat washer as opposed to loctite – has this been tried/explored?

    nonetheless, still loving this system with no mods whatsoever.

    #600780
    Yoda
    264 Posts

    @karma surf wrote:

    Impossible to put the rear foot pin in when you run a + angle on the back foot- the climbing bar block is in the way (not an issue for a duck rider).

    If I ride a 3-6 degree + angle on my back foot, is this going to be an issue? Is this too much of a + angle for this pin? What about stance width… does that have any baring on the pin interference with the climbing block?

    #600781
    bcrider
    4150 Posts

    @karma surf wrote:

    I run my pins opposite of the way the Sparks guys set them up

    WHY? Do you just like going against the grain? 🙂

    @karma surf wrote:

    Impossible to put the rear foot pin in when you run a + angle on the back foot- the climbing bar block is in the way (not an issue for a duck rider).

    The Sparks pins are left and right specific…I’m not even sure how you would flip flop them due to the angle of the pin. The spark pins enter the binding from the outside, not the inside. So if you run the pins correctly you shouldn’t have any interference with the climbing bar block.

    Yoda, no worries assuming you use the bindings and pins as designed.

    #600782
    bcrider
    4150 Posts

    @Will wrote:

    Are those burton parts thicker so you couldn’t fully get the nut on there?

    Just slightly. I lost a turn or two of thread but thats it. Locktite and a little longer screw will be an easy fix (assuming I get off my lazy ass and do it). 🙂

    #600783
    karma surf
    191 Posts

    The Sparks bindings I received came stock with the slider pin leashed to the inside of each binding. You guys are reading toooooo much into it (BCR/Yoda). Run the pins whatever way you want, but they will not run from the inside on the rear foot with someone who has + degree stance on the back foot. The climbing block will always be in the way. Since the pins are L/R specific, either both pins need to run from inside out, or both from outside in, not too difficult.

    #600784

    @karma surf wrote:

    The Sparks bindings I received came stock with the slider pin leashed to the inside of each binding. You guys are reading toooooo much into it (BCR/Yoda). Run the pins whatever way you want, but they will not run from the inside on the rear foot with someone who has + degree stance on the back foot. The climbing block will always be in the way. Since the pins are L/R specific, either both pins need to run from inside out, or both from outside in, not too difficult.

    This is true, my pins were installed on the inside of the binder as well and I had to back off the angle on my back foot to get an angle where the pin wasn’t obstructed by the climbing wire mounting block.

    #600785
    bcrider
    4150 Posts

    @karma surf wrote:

    Run the pins whatever way you want, but they will not run from the inside on the rear foot with someone who has + degree stance on the back foot.

    You made an oxymoron. 🙂

    You can’t run the pins whatever way you want if you run angle in your rear foot.

    To be honest, I forgot the pins came installed on the inside since I removed the leashes so quickly. As I think about it more, when I set the board up and installed them from the inside they did get hung up so I installed them from the outside and haven’t looked back.

    I guess I’m wondering why you haven’t done the same and insist on installing them from the inside? 😉

    @karma surf wrote:

    not too difficult.

    speak for yourself! 😛

Viewing 20 posts - 41 through 60 (of 147 total)

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