Forums DIY and Mods Quiver killer/ Binding freedom inserts for a universal DIY
Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 31 total)
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  • #575526
    Splitinbend
    243 Posts

    So last year I built my first splitboard with a Nitro Pantera. The board turned out nice, I was pleased with my job. This year I want to get my wife out with me doing some mellow climbs around Tumalo and such. I bought a Malolo for her to split. I have been doing a ton of research to try and get as creative as possible with avoiding drilling through the board. I have seen a few different DIY’s with the four hole permanent pattern that used quiverkiller inserts. Obviously there is going to be some issues with strength but does anyone think its possible to do a universal hole pattern with the inserts and hold a two hole voile adjustable puck? Unfortunately my wife has not ridden to Malolo and at times feels like her stance needs to be adjusted due to powder conditions. Im skeptical about splitting and setting her stance without some options. Are there other options to using the universal puck on a DIY board?

    #646117
    Splitinbend
    243 Posts

    Anybody in Bend want to get creative with me?

    #646118
    maniacdave
    564 Posts

    My concern would be that such inserts are intended for ski bindings with like 7-8+ screws per bindings, where as with a split there will be a grand total of 8 being used at one time between both bindings. Counter that though, with your wife looking to do some mellow riding & nothing crazy, I’d give it a shot. If they pull out, t-nut ’em and go back to the drawing board.

    That was Pontus

    #646119
    vapor
    350 Posts

    With the diy pucks and four screws you would be able to get away with quiver killers, universal pucks they will probably rip out. that said my next board will use homemade pucks that use two of the original iserts and quiver killers on the other end.

    #646120
    vapor
    350 Posts

    With the diy pucks and four screws you would be able to get away with quiver killers, universal pucks they will probably rip out. that said my next board will use homemade pucks that use two of the original pucks and quiver killers on the other end.

    #646121
    mountainbikeak
    82 Posts

    @splitinbend wrote:

    My concern would be that such inserts are intended for ski bindings with like 7-8+ screws per bindings, where as with a split there will be a grand total of 8 being used at one time between both bindings

    I’ve mentioned before that I’ve used these in tele skis with no problem… tele skis use 4 inserts and the torsional force these things went through were pretty high!
    They are much easier to mount in skis due to the thicker core in the mounting area, with a snowboard you have to grind away some of the insert and be extra careful not to strip out the threads put in with the tap. I’m going to test some out in the touring bracket first, then move on to Universal mounts, i’ll let you guys know if I broke a leg or not!

    #646122
    chrisNZ
    304 Posts

    With quiver killers found it better not tapping it, just wind it strait in with alot of downwards pressure. With soft wood core it easily strips when i was tapping it before putting the inserts in.

    #646123
    Splitinbend
    243 Posts

    @chrisnz wrote:

    With quiver killers found it better not tapping it, just wind it strait in with alot of downwards pressure. With soft wood core it easily strips when i was tapping it before putting the inserts in.

    Good to know Chris, did you do any sort of pre drilling at all?

    #646124
    Splitinbend
    243 Posts

    Talked to the owner of slidewright.com today for a good half hour. He had never addressed the inserts on splitboards but was really stoked to hear about it. Set up some insert/installation tool packages after I chatted with him.

    http://www.slidewright.com/drills-taps-tools-and-plugs_132.html

    #646125
    chrisNZ
    304 Posts

    @splitinbend wrote:

    @chrisnz wrote:

    With quiver killers found it better not tapping it, just wind it strait in with alot of downwards pressure. With soft wood core it easily strips when i was tapping it before putting the inserts in.

    Good to know Chris, did you do any sort of pre drilling at all?

    Yeah pre drill to the size the recommend. Better still try taping some and not tapping some on a test board or the heel raisers. And see what works better. You dont want the insert to pry up any layers of wood/glass as you wind it in, hence the tapping or pushing down hard when installing the insert.

    #646126
    yogisnow
    42 Posts

    Ripped my QVK inserts clear out of the board.
    Only really recommend them on the touring plate and risers.
    Ok if she is really mellow rider.
    Second that not to use tapper. Just pre-drill.

    #646127
    Monk151
    185 Posts

    I’m guessing you used them with the adjustable pucks (2 per puck)? Or stationary pucks?

    I’m not sure they get enough bite in a snowboard… it seems to me, without supplementing with a tnut here and there, it’s just a matter of time before they tear out. Or if you want to start epowelding gear to the board, you can definitely squeeze some more life out of them. But doing that seems like it would defeat the only real purpose of using quiver killers over regular binding screws – easy removal and replacement of hardware. They’ll work wonders on hardwoods, but softwood (especially without reinforcement and deep penetration – yikes) is really playing your odds.

    #646128
    Scooby2
    620 Posts

    For permanent installs, If you are experimenting, try this on a few holes. drill the hole for your threaded insert or ski screw, tap it or not. I like to tap the hole thinking that it allows the epoxy to harden the wood where the screw pitch rests. Then take a 1/16 bit and starting about 1/8 inch into the hole, drill two 45 degree angled holes about 1/4 out from the hole for the screw or insert.
    Then take some fiberglass or carbon fiber and cut a bunch up into 1/16″ or smaller shards. Saturate a pile of these with good epoxy resin, then stuff this resin and fiber mix into the screw holes until it is packed and try to tuck some of it into the tiny holes that you drilled. Brush your screws with a wire brush for a good bonding surface.

    The idea is to 1. harden up the soft wood where the screw holds on to the wood and 2. to bond the screw with a larger, strong and irregularly shaped chunk of epoxy and composite that wont rotate and wont pull out straight.

    Drill out two additional holes in each of your touring brackets so you mount one with 5 screws instead of 3. Three screws are just not enough for a touring bracket, too much stomping when you are setting a trail in a crust. T-nut it if you are going to ski your split much.

    #646129
    Monk151
    185 Posts

    that’s good stuff scooby! very typical of you 😉

    for the touring bracket and climbing block – great. but do you think that is going to hold universal pucks? maybe the old 4 hole stationary pucks… but why use quiver killers for them?

    #646130
    Scooby2
    620 Posts

    your exactly right Monk, only for climbing bracket and 4 hole pucks, I really doubt it for the two holes pucks or two hole adjustable pucks

    #646131
    maniacdave
    564 Posts

    How about alternating between Scooby’s technique with the quiverkillers and t-nuts? That way each puck is held by at least one t-nut. Doesn’t totally eliminate drilling through the board, but halves the number of big ass holes put in.

    That was Pontus

    #646132
    chrisNZ
    304 Posts

    I t-nuted the last board from the top. No base holes. And nothing has riped out yet hasnt had 100days thou.

    #646133
    yogisnow
    42 Posts

    @monk151 wrote:

    I’m guessing you used them with the adjustable pucks (2 per puck)? Or stationary pucks?

    Thought i would give it a go with the adjustable pucks with 2 per puck. Ah well.
    Have just got some machined plates from Burton and will use the factory inserts and T nut where the QK’s ripped out.
    That will do the job.
    Now to cut one of those new Furberg 173’s in half and do the same.

    #646134
    yogisnow
    42 Posts

    @chrisnz wrote:

    I t-nuted the last board from the top. No base holes. And nothing has riped out yet hasnt had 100days thou.

    What did you refill around the Tnuts with?

    #646135
    chrisNZ
    304 Posts

    @yogisnow wrote:

    @chrisnz wrote:

    I t-nuted the last board from the top. No base holes. And nothing has riped out yet hasnt had 100days thou.

    What did you refill around the Tnuts with?

    @splitinbend wrote:

    Would you mind briefly walking through the process of how you did that? Im having a hard time picturing it in my head.

    viewtopic.php?f=16&t=11132

    1.Router a channel from the top, 3inserts = 4 inch long channel and 1in-1.5in wide (wider than you inserts/tnuts)
    2.Make a block that fits into the channel you routed, i used a 4-5 layer ply 7mm thick
    3. Drill and forstner holes for the inserts on the block

    4. check that the blocks fit in mine were tight press/hammer fit to get them in
    5. epoxy the block into the channel and clamp.
    6. i then did a final finish epoxy coat with some pigment paste to colour match the board top sheet.

    Things to check are:
    inserts are sitting straight.
    plug the insert holes to stop the epoxy getting in.
    Leave a thin layer of the wood core on the bottom of the slot to help with the epoxy bond.

    I built and tested a few samples before going through with this, and got really high pullout loads 500-800lb/insert but i cant guarantee anything.

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