So after skulking around for a long time, I finally got hold of some UHMW to make some pucks with integrated cants. I’ve been using Voile’s cants for about a year, and the pucks always seemed to slide around on top. This meant pulling out a screwdriver and blah blah blah… Interestingly i have 4 sets of sliders and they all fit differently! Some are snug and some have a bit of wiggle room. Ah well, that’s what the vise is for…
I had to hit up my friendly cabinet maker buddy for a table saw, and so ended up making more than i need. The pucks have a 5° angle on them and you can cut them to overlap board halves a-la Jogi’s method, or cut ’em straight and the Burton contingent can use them like Jack to move to the Voile slider plates. Being a fruit-booter..er hardbooter, I don’t know if they would work with Wills Binders, but they seemed to work with the kids softboot bindings
$40 for a pair, and I’ll pay the shipping
if you need more photos, I can do that too…but they’re pretty much symetrical 🙂
I may be interested in your cants but I have a couple questions that I hope you or someone else can help me out with. I just switched over to hard boots this season and like the new setup for the most part. Great for skinning and still feels surfy in powder. The problem I’m having is on the hardpack, I feel like I have lost a lot of control. I feel very unstable on my turns, especially heelside. I’m wondering if cants would help this, I do feel a lot of pressure on the inside of my calves. I’m also wondering if I need to have a more aggressive stance angle. Right now I’m riding about +20f/+10r.
I really like the idea of not adding extra height with your pucks. I already feel pretty detached from my board with voile’s plate binding. thanks, I hope you can help
The pain/pressure on your calves would be alleviated with Cants. It made a huge difference for me, in that regard. I run 25*f/15*b as my stance, so I’m not sure changing your angles would help your lack of stability on your heelside. What sort of boots are you using? Gary
thanks for the reply, I have scarpa matrix with the power strap removed. There really isn’t any pain from the pressure but I can see how it would be a more comfortable position with the cants. It seems with your cants that you would have to permanently set your stance angle, is this true? Have you tested them in the field? I am very interested in them I just need to ponder a few things first.
Had them out the last two weeks. I put in some hex screws rather than the original Voile units, and I’ve not had any issues. I used to get a bit of movement with the standard puck/cant, and haven’t seen any at all with these.
The stance angle is pretty much permanent…though I’m sure if one got creative, you could figure something out…or just take two pair, one for now and one for later
I have scarpa matrix with the power strap removed.
This was going to be my next question…and I don’t know what to suggest…other than the cant’s of course 😉
The solution for me was when i found a Burton Unicant. If you find 2 it’s very easy to try different cant and lift settings. Sadly the dont make them anymore.
I have been trying many different cant and lift settings. Both on my carving, and powder boards. I have ended up using almost only toe and heel lift on my carving boards. And a about 50/50 canting and heel lift on the rear binding only, when using strap bindings.
I just got my canted pucks from IntheMountains last night. Of course by this morning I had my DIY Mod completed. I have not taken any photos, but I drilled the pucks so that I could mount them with two screws per half on my mojo and three to four per half for my burton custom split. I made myself a clear template to mark the hole positions at the desired angles, counterpunched them to mark the spots, drilled and countersunk the holes. I took In the Mountain’s advice (he solidified what I was thinking) in that I could countersink the holes varying depths in the canted puck material to allow the same length of screw to be used. I had a extra set of button screws 12mm long with a hex key head waiting when the pucks arrived. I also made some slight overlap of the puck halves to see if that locks the board together better.
Now I have an integrated puck with cants that I can use on either of my boards, no need for different setups, baseplates, etc. This also will now reduce the weight on my burton…I’ll detail how much when I get it all on the scale.
man, i cant believe more people didnt jump all over this. at least half a dozen people have asked me to make them cants and i keep telling them i am too lazy. 😀
you guys wouldn’t want ITM to drill them, because they need to be drilled for your exact stance.
man, i cant believe more people didnt jump all over this. at least half a dozen people have asked me to make them cants and i keep telling them i am too lazy. 😀
you guys wouldn’t want ITM to drill them, because they need to be drilled for your exact stance.
Maybe I should have said how awesome these canted pucks are so that anyone too busy riding to make their own (lots of snow flying around) or too lazy (like me for example) should buy a set of these.
I will edit this later to post a picture of my drilling and cutting. I marked, drilled then cut them and they are a great fit for both board hole patters at my exact stance width and angle for each of my boards (mojo and old burton).
I will make my own later, but inthemountains canted pucks are perfect, fit tight, wonderful…now open the creaky wallet and buy his last set.
When I bought the canted pucks made of white UHMW material from Inthemountains I did so because I was too busy to make my own. I wanted a set that would allow me to convert my used old burton custom split to voile without board drilling. This one set of pucks now can be used on either system with holes for each setup at the angles I wanted…you too should buy some of his canted pucks.
Black holes are for Voile, red for Burton, both red and black are holes used for both. Voile has two holes per puck half, the Burton has three or four holes. I installed and then tested these in the house wrenching them very hard for a 215# rider and they are bomber tough.
Regardless of the thickness of the puck at the hole locations I drilled and countersunk the holes such that the same length screw could be used, no need for varying lengths and more spares to carry.
Hey Nice Work Mumbles! I would have routered those gaps a little bigger had i known you were going to dip into the high points. Those high points gave me a bit of grief on my own pucks…which is why i trimmed them down on the ones I sent out.
As to Jogi’s question on the overlap…it sure was noticeable. Yesterday I had my split-swallowtail out and got onto some firm snow under 10cm of fresh. I was carving like one of them Euro-Carvers…first time i’d ever done that…and the split felt like a solid board.
I have to say “thanks” to Jogi for the inspiration on the overlapping puck idea. I will be installing these on all my splits this week. (I’ll take the credit on the inspiration for integrating the cants :-))
And for those of you who don’t want a wedge under there (though i can’t understand why…they make everything sooooo comfortable)…you could always trim the wedgey bit off…
regards, Gary’s Kants….made by splitters for splitters
Here we see the integration of great ideas. This mod has overlapping pucks, thanks Jogi, as the first mod. This may add some rigidity and prevent individual board half slop. The second is the fact that this is a one piece puck with the 5* canting integrated into the same block of material. The third is that this allows for use on an older burton board without drilling of new holes in the board. I guess the fourth is that I’m drilling the pucks to fit both the burton and voile boards. The countersinking of the holes was tough at the higher points of the routered pucks, but really ended up pretty nice. Not bad for a 20 minute project per puck. The versatility this brings me is tremendous, not to mention simplifying setup on either of my boards. If you think this might work for you thank Jogi, InTheMountains and now Mumbles. The ideas of three becoming a virtuoso of possibilities.