I may be interested in your cants but I have a couple questions that I hope you or someone else can help me out with. I just switched over to hard boots this season and like the new setup for the most part. Great for skinning and still feels surfy in powder. The problem I’m having is on the hardpack, I feel like I have lost a lot of control. I feel very unstable on my turns, especially heelside. I’m wondering if cants would help this, I do feel a lot of pressure on the inside of my calves. I’m also wondering if I need to have a more aggressive stance angle. Right now I’m riding about +20f/+10r.

I really like the idea of not adding extra height with your pucks. I already feel pretty detached from my board with voile’s plate binding.
thanks, I hope you can help

thanks for the reply, I have scarpa matrix with the power strap removed. There really isn’t any pain from the pressure but I can see how it would be a more comfortable position with the cants. It seems with your cants that you would have to permanently set your stance angle, is this true? Have you tested them in the field? I am very interested in them I just need to ponder a few things first.

You are the Kootenay King, PM sent.

I too have material, but have not had time to fire up the saws and router to get my project going. I’ve got the money though…

I belive it’s important to consider more then canting only.
http://www.alpinecarving.com/binding_setup.html Is a god resource .

The solution for me was when i found a Burton Unicant. If you find 2 it’s very easy to try different cant and lift settings. Sadly the dont make them anymore.

I have been trying many different cant and lift settings. Both on my carving, and powder boards. I have ended up using almost only toe and heel lift on my carving boards. And a about 50/50 canting and heel lift on the rear binding only, when using strap bindings.

/Gunnar

I just got my canted pucks from IntheMountains last night. Of course by this morning I had my DIY Mod completed. I have not taken any photos, but I drilled the pucks so that I could mount them with two screws per half on my mojo and three to four per half for my burton custom split. I made myself a clear template to mark the hole positions at the desired angles, counterpunched them to mark the spots, drilled and countersunk the holes. I took In the Mountain’s advice (he solidified what I was thinking) in that I could countersink the holes varying depths in the canted puck material to allow the same length of screw to be used. I had a extra set of button screws 12mm long with a hex key head waiting when the pucks arrived. I also made some slight overlap of the puck halves to see if that locks the board together better.

Now I have an integrated puck with cants that I can use on either of my boards, no need for different setups, baseplates, etc. This also will now reduce the weight on my burton…I’ll detail how much when I get it all on the scale.

Thanks inthemountians, you are the man.

When I bought the canted pucks made of white UHMW material from Inthemountains I did so because I was too busy to make my own. I wanted a set that would allow me to convert my used old burton custom split to voile without board drilling. This one set of pucks now can be used on either system with holes for each setup at the angles I wanted…you too should buy some of his canted pucks.

Black holes are for Voile, red for Burton, both red and black are holes used for both. Voile has two holes per puck half, the Burton has three or four holes. I installed and then tested these in the house wrenching them very hard for a 215# rider and they are bomber tough.

Regardless of the thickness of the puck at the hole locations I drilled and countersunk the holes such that the same length screw could be used, no need for varying lengths and more spares to carry.

this is what i made out of gary’s pucks:

feel’s comfortable!

thanx to InTheMountains/Gary! 😀