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    Just got my Prowder kit in the mail. I have installed the puck system/saddles (which attach to the original inserts, sweet). These are way easier to adjust than voile pucks, i’ll see about durability.

    The clip system has one hang up for me right now and i will post pictures of all this once sorted out. The small spacers that should slide over the allen bolts doesn’t, they fit over my old voile bolts just fine :scratch: ?

    No template or instructions have come with the kit, though really there is none needed. Once i get the spacer/bearing figured out (maybe drill them or polish the inside with a dremel?)


    :clap: Good news!!

    Hopefully mine won’t be far away!
    Look forward to hear what you think of them :thumbsup:




    I also got a full Prowder set up but I’ve already found a couple snags.

    The machining is pretty poor. So there are lots of burrs which catch, like on the rings and rollers. They wear in though.

    One of my Cowboy clips is ridiculously tight. I have to stomp on it to get it to close, which is a bummer if I have any snow in-between the sides. Hoping it will loosen with use.

    I’ve got the set up on a DIY split so I’m using the old 4×4 holes. I totally like the adjustability. I can mess with my stance pretty easily.

    The plates move fine but bind on some angles. Not sure why. Tried the ol’ silicone spray which works wonders on the plastic pucks but no doing here. It’s almost like the height of the sides of the plates pinches on the side of the voile plate.

    Also the plates are not made for Voile plates and other bindings. I had to file off the height of the end plate to get the T-nuts to clear. And again on some stance configurations the T-nuts catch the screws in the 4×4 holes. I can hammer the plate over the screws but the clearance it just too tight. I suppose with split specific bindings it’s all good.

    So it’s a toss up. For non-split specific bindings and someone who knows their stance stick with the voile kit. For someone with split specific bindings and likes to fuck with their stance, or are too lazy to t-nut a DIY, these plates work. We’ll see how long they last.


    The steel plates will last forever, any aluminium that is in contact with the steel probably wont fare so well.


    I’ve got my system set up and functioning well, i tried my brothers Magneto bindings on them and it was a really tight fit, Fuses have more room) . The clips are working well over a trip to Breck and three tours into the bc, very tight (hard to snap down at first for sure) needed some creative filing. I also had to file down my old t-nuts that protruded on my diy (next board will have only t-nuts for touring, 4 total :headbang: ) Tons of adjustability by using the original inserts.
    Locktite every thing!

    @BobGnarly wrote:

    The steel plates will last forever, any aluminium that is in contact with the steel probably wont fare so well.

    I have the same concern, but i ride MTBs that have lots of steel and aluminium parts interfacing all the time no problem… until there is 😆 I will be keeping an eye on any gruves forming on my old fuses for sure.


    OK I’m on board now. After some creative filing got the DIY plates to slide on and off smooth. But I still have a little side to side wobble even when the plates are locked in. I don’t notice it when I’m ridding but can twist the binding and make a little movement. Seems like the Prowder stainless plates are a bit narrow. Of course my Voile plates are like 10 years old so they could be loose.

    I second that loctite everything.

    Again, very cool idea. It’s nice to have some versatility.

    Reindeer mtn

    This looks very interesting indeed.
    Will there be any pictures of the Voile slider plate mods that has been filed down?
    “Saddles don’t mount on Burton ICS or 3D patterns” too bad on the 3D pattern


    (Two cross-post reviews follow here)

    This is one configuration (of many) for a factory split mount. Notably, it took a fellow splitter on this forum for me to get a useful picture of a factory split mount.

    I mounted saddles on one of my splits. Some thoughts:

    1. Many possible configurations

    There are many different potential configurations of the parts that one can use. I ended up using one different than the picture above.

    The downside of so many configurations is that it’s confusing and difficult to set up–at least for someone as mechanically disinclined as me–this is especially true without directions. The upside is that it’s highly adjustable.

    Here is the rear foot configuration I am using (for now, but who knows if I will change it up).

    2. Loose fit

    Using last year’s light rails, there is a small amount of vertical play between the binding and saddle. Although fore-aft tolerances are tight, the saddle doesn’t hold the binding down firmly. The result is a small but annoying and worrisome rattle. I will keep diddling with it to try to remedy this problem. If I can’t resolve this problem it will probably be a deal killer for me.

    3. Nice boot centering

    The design allows one to center their rear boot and binding on the board in a way that factory pucks don’t. As a size 12 guy harboring a disdain for boot-out, I like this feature a lot.

    4. Design suggestion

    By designing the base mounting plates with a bit of board seem overlap on each side this system could facilitate more structural rigidity by preventing one ski from being torqued higher than the other.


    (Second cross post review.)

    I spent a week in AK touring on the Prowders. Rode settled pow, wind-affected pow, heinous steep hard snow, sun-affected mush crust, etc. Pretty big days; they were put through the ringer. I had them on both my Donek 187 and Venture Storm 181.

    All of my above observations and thoughts stand. Also:

    1. They need lock-tight. Screws loosen easily otherwise.
    2. Despite a tiny bit of play, they feel more bomber to me than the Voile pucks, which I’ve broken. I err on the side of bomber. But I sure wish they had a no-wiggle fit; that is a bummer.
    3. They shed ice easily. Usually just by putting the binding on. We had ice; it wasn’t a problem.
    4. I wish there were more stance angle options. Front foot 20s are tolerable but not ideal for me.

    As with any new product, only time will tell (seasons worth) how well it will hold up. Certainly, a week of touring isn’t that. And it’s surely true here with so much metal on metal. But Prowder, I would say, is off to a not-bad start. I hope and expect that Kevin continues to improve the product, considering some of my suggestions, especially about base-plate board seam overlap, in the post above.


    Slightly overlapping pucks make a very big difference, and don’t add any weight or complexity. Overlapping tourbrackets would be even better. I still don’t understand that nobody’s improved the pucks besides Prowder. We now have $500 bindings, and still have to use the plastic pucks that frankly arent’t that great. I’ve been riding these all season, very happy with them:


    Hey Leism, what are your pucks made from? I made some from UHMWPE with overlap similar to yours and they really do make a huge difference. I would like to find something a little stiffer and lighter? perhaps. Any suggestions?


    Just went up to Kevin’s shop and picked up some Prowder hardware. 2 sets of saddles, 1 set of hooks and 1 set of clips. Setting up a Lib Tech Rice DIY split and putting the saddles on a solid for my Sparks. Pretty impressed with everything so far. Kevin showed me around and explained a lot of the design decisions. Kevin seems like a really smart/talented product designer/engineer and I love his mission to design quality products that push the sport to new areas while trying to keep the cost as low for us dirtbag snowboarders. He also does some amazing DIY splits with inner edge/sidewall. Really made me rethink the quality of my DIY splits 😉

    Haven’t seen snow yet, but my impressions from installation mimic some of the previous.

    – Everything is very tight out of the box and some minor filing/grinding is needed to get a smooth, snug fit for my Sparks (lt pins, non-tesla) on the saddles. I’d rather have this issue than any slop out of the box. Voile adapter plates slide on like butter, but have a little bit of slop. Kevin showed this to me at the shop with some Light Rails as well. The Voiles tend to sit a little higher off the board than Sparks, so filing down the top of the saddle helps this. I could also see placing some foam rubber between the board and the plates to add a little bit more height and cushion if you needed this.

    – The tip hooks blow the plastic voile clips away. You can get a much much tighter and more solid clip on your tips that I never thought was possible.

    – Moving from Karakoram clips to cowboy clips. I love that you get the overlap and the clip to lock and in tour mode the clip locks back. The sloppy Karakoram clip on the ups has always been a pet peeve. I also love that you can really adjust the clips if your drilling isn’t 100% spot on.

    – The adjustability on the saddles and clips is pretty unbelievable.

    – Using the existing 4×4 inserts on the DIY split is the best thing ever! stance options and fewer holes in the core!!!

    I’m not too concerned about the metal-metal, but we’ll see how this plays out. After reading recommendations, I’ll be exploring loc-tite for sure. My only real concern right now is how tight everything is and how transitions will be, might be a little tough with gloves on and low temps.

    Pretty excited to try this system out. Designed and made in Colorado!

    Once I get out on snow with these, in bc and resort, will report back.


    Dont want to derail, here, but from what i’ve heard, Voile’s patent on the pucks is up in 2015..


    quick one – can i swop out K clips for Cowboys, without any new holes?

    had to tape up my k-clips to make them a tight fit now…

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