Just finished my new board, done a little differently from the last. I actually used a circular saw this time instead of freehanding it with a jigsaw! Edge is 1 coat of marine varnish to soak into the wood, 1 coat of G-flex for a full seal and durability, then another 2 coats of varnish wet sanded to finish. Smooth! I used Prowder pucks and tip clips, and instead of t nuts or quiver killers for the touring brackets I used industrial insert nuts. These are basically quiver killers but with a slot drive at the top for tap-less installation, and come in M6 so I can use standard bolts rather than the M5 on QK. Sealed in with g-flex they feel pretty bomber! Hooks are just recycled voile ones from my old board, as they work just fine and hoss hooks look a little over complicated. I’ll maybe try them in the future.
The finished board:
Ahh, no more swiss cheese:
Went for my first ride yesterday, just resort laps as the weather was horrible. So far I’m loving the prowder setup. Clips are definitely a step up from voile or K. No annoying riveting and click in solidly. The pucks are a bit of a pain to setup using the method in the video so I made a jig (seen in the above photo) for quick and easy alignment. Only issue is screw loosening. Will be loctite-ing the shit out of them before the next outing! Overall the whole board feels much more solid than my old setup, no “shearing” down the middle and barely any noticeable difference in flex from before splitting. Whether this is due to the prowder gear or just me doing a better job this time I’m not sure, but it makes sense aluminium pucks would stiffen up the connection somewhat.
As for the Furburg ride – Awww yeah! I’m converted! Such nice initiation, no hooking, no violent popping out of carves if you push too hard, super stable pointing it. I’d heard about problems on low angle hard pack but so far has been fine after a slight learning curve (really having to weight and flex the board for tighter turns). Can still pull ear to the floor eurocarves on wider runs! I think my perfect board would have slightly deeper radius, maybe 12m, just for easier carving, but that may change once I hit some steeper stuff.
For £300 less than any factory split I could buy, I’m definitely a happy chappy, and just in time for some spring corn gulley action too!
Its an old furburg. Would love to try the new one to see how the camber rides. I think the rocker lends a good bit of forgiveness for pivoting turns in tight spaces so it would be interesting to see if the camber isn’t a little more punishing. Would be nice for the up I imagine though, i’m used to touring on a full camber board so expecting some nasty surprises on icy steeps with this guy! Also not sure on the new 18m sidecut, this one already seems a little too much. But then again I wasn’t entirely sold on the whole furberg thing before I rode it, and now i’m in love! So if Daniel says it works, I would be inclined to trust him.
The insert nuts I bought from here. They only had m6 x 8mm zinc plate in stock so I will see how they last over time. Obviously stainless would be better. The only difference other than the easier install and choice of sizes compared with QKs is that they are open bottomed. I didn’t want to leave any unsealed core for moisture to penetrate, but also didn’t want too much excess epoxy oozing into my mounting bolts. So I covered the ends with masking tape and trimmed flush before installing. Worked fine. To install I used an 8mm drill bit with a depth stop (largest stop I have), then widened to 10.5mm, although 10mm would actually probably have been fine (easier drill bit to source if you don’t have 10.5). I then screwed in each nut “dry” to create the tap and check fit, before removing and reinstalling with epoxy in the hole and on the threads. The price for QK’s here is £2 a pop. Insert nuts were 10 for £4.80!
Did you see my thread in the bindings section about prowders slipping? I’ve re-screwed them with more locktite since then but haven’t been out to test yet. Still, looking at the design i’m worried about it being a serious issue. With standard pucks the angle adjustment part is held in place with teeth so the bolts are not directly subjected to twisting pressure from the bindings, whereas on the prowders all 3 bolts are directly fighting against this. Add a bit of vibration and I can see them working loose even if epoxied.
Hopefully i’m wrong and i’ll find a way to make them stay put, but worth bearing this in mind when you first get them. I’d recommend testing them on some low angle stuff first or at a resort where you can rack up a lot of descent before trusting them on a serious line.
On the plus side the tip clips are still awesome. Although that clever way they clip into the second bolt for tour mode is actually completely redundant as its exactly where the skin clip on G3/Spark skins goes! Still you can just flick them round the other way like standard clips.
I was surprised to hear about the Prowders twisting. Too bad. I’ve torqued them quite riding and they’ve always stayed put.
For soft booting, I’m now sold on custom pucks. Scooby2 installed some on my preflex and IMO they are vastly superior to prowders or Voile. No potential for movement, solid, and board seam overlap, which is key (astonishing that still only phantom and K provide board seam overlap in their design).
I haven’t seen this issue before with our system. It sounds like the screws aren’t going all the way down. Are you using stock screws? Is there material in the bottom of the inserts preventing them from going down? Are you using M6 inserts, or fractional inserts? M6 inserts are the correct inserts to use. If you didn’t use some type of stop in the insert like hot glue that prevents the epoxy from entering the insert it may be bottoming out on the epoxy.
I have seen standard snowboard inserts/ T-nuts and quiver killers compress making it extremely hard to get a M6 screw down to the correct depth. Sometime I take a M6 tap to the insert to help the screw into the insert.
We use a hex screw so the screws can really crank down into the board. We have found we can get these screws so tight that we can actually strip the thread out of the aluminum. You can put some lock-tight on the screws if the screws are coming loose or twisting out. We haven’t found vibration loosing the screws, so it could be a combination of screws and inserts.
If the screws are going to the bottom of the insert and staying tight you may have a problem with the screw/metal connection. We have not seen a problem with screw/metal connection before. You could try using a low profile lock washer. If you have a strong vice or shop press you could press a rough surface where the screw contacts the upper binding plate. You could use a old flat metal file or anything that has a ribbed surface.
We have listened to all the input on our current puck design and have engineered a new version of our saddle that address many of the voile/prowder/spark issues. We also have a binding that address these issues coming out next year. We have been splitting boards for many years and have seen many issues with DIY splitboards. To solve these issues we have stopped splitting snowboards, and have begun manufacturing our own. It is easier to manufacture a splitboard than split one. To match the price of splitting a snowboard, we have priced our splitboards at $399. We are a company based on innovation and a love of snowboarding. Profit isn’t what we strive for, that’s why our prices are 20-50% under our competitors everyday!
If you have any more issues please contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org or give us a ring. We are here to help.
it doesn’t look like Spark crampons will work with the Ranger toe pieces, am i wrong? Other that that it looks great, nice work!
My brother had a hell of a time with the Prowder saddles this season (moving, coming loose and unable to get the bindings to slide on). I have made the switch to Phantoms and love the feel of the them so far. I haven’t had any problems with the Prowder set up personally and have run them on my solid board with old Sparks with no issues after useing lock tight on all the bolts…