Forums TR Archive Washington Mt Baker Easton Glacier Approach
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  • #570174
    Kyle Miller
    510 Posts

    With the Weather forecasts looking promising for the weekend Scott and I decided to make a quick push for the Summit of Mt Baker at an elevation of 10781 ft. I had done the Colman Demming route before and wasn’t to impressed by the ride/traverse down so we decided to head for the Easton Glacier approach which had a much better fall line. During the winter/spring Easton is a snow park and is littered with snowmobiles so it keeps most climbers away.

    Friday after work Scott and I met up in Seattle and drove out to the Scribner Meadows Easton Glacier access road. After packing up we were on the trail by around 7 p.m. hiking about 1 mile on dirt and skinning about .4 of a mile before we hit the trail head.

    Our first view of our Route the South side of Baker

    We skinned until the sunset and were able to camp behind the last rock cropping around 6’400 feet before the route was all glaciers.

    Scott skinning up to the Setting sun (the tracks are from Snowmobiles

    Looking towards the Twin Sisters

    Scott got out the tent and as we started putting the tent together we noticed we were missing a pole. This made no sense because we had both of the poles minutes earlier and all of a sudden we were stuck with only one. After looking for a while we made a make shit tent bivy using our ski poles and the one tent pole we did have.

    This was our home for the night

    The next morning we got up made some breakfast and started searching for the missing pole.

    It turns out the pole must have gotten kicked and had enough momentum to slide down the ridge off a cornice and into a ravine about 100 feet down without either of us seeing it (damn you gravity).

    We roped up around 7’500 feet after seeing evidence of Crevasse’s on our path and having to cross the occasional snow bridge. By around 10 A.M. the snowmobiles were out in full effect. At one point I was crossing a snow bridge fast and cautiously then all of a sudden a snowmobile charges up that same snow bridge 10 feet away 😯 .

    A rather big Crevasse we had to cross

    We were able to skin all the way up to the summit crater but decided to unrope for the roman head wall in fear of one of us pulling the other off the slope.

    Skinning up to the crater

    We took a few minutes to melt some water and check out the crater before heading up the Headwall.

    Looking into the Craters vents with Sherman peak in the background.

    Scott boot packing up the Headwall

    Then myself doing the final push to summit with Sherman Peak in the background.

    When we reached the summit there was no wind at all so we leisurely hung out for around an hour waiting for the corn to soften.

    The Standard summit shot

    And the View into the North Cascades

    When we felt the snow was right we strapped in for a 7’400 foot run of almost perfect fall line.

    Looking down from the Roman Headwall

    Scott first





    Then myself




    Conditions were perfect corn the whole way down from the headwall all the way to our base camp. The rain from a few days before created a thin layer of ice on top of the old snow somewhat protecting it from the sun.

    Our tracks heading down with a snowmobile track going right through Scott’s line.

    Once below the Camp it looked like a ski resort that hadn’t gotten snow for days.

    We managed to take advantage of there tracks on the flats and ride all the way to the trail head in my mind I was kept thinking it’s just a half ass groomer track.

    There is nothing like climbing a mountain while snowmobiles are riding back and forth us the same slope.

    #606463
    bigdood
    457 Posts

    I think Scott forgot to switch modes on his splitboard 😆 😆

    This photo is AWESOME, the cloud layer is amazing

    #606464
    Mumbles
    753 Posts

    Another super trip report. 7400 of vert at this time of the year is unbelievable! Well done.

    #606465
    kjkrow
    353 Posts

    Nice work fellas, glad I could help with the beta. Maybe (and hopefully) the third time will be the charm with me and the Easton.

    #606466
    Kyle Miller
    510 Posts

    We almost felt guilty getting Baker in such good weather knowing you were stuck at base camp in white out conditions.
    Thanks for the Beta.

    #606467
    kjkrow
    353 Posts

    Sure thing … made it up to 10,200 on Hood today too, so I got to take advantage of the weather, even if it wasn’t Baker.

    #606468
    ale_capone
    864 Posts

    awesome views up there!

    #606469
    SanFrantastico
    1514 Posts

    Yeah – some really nice shots. Did you descent a different route than the one you climbed? I have no glacier experience so crevasses scare me.

    Putting the poo in swimming pool since 1968.

    #606470
    Kyle Miller
    510 Posts

    We followed our ascent path for the most part. We were off to the sides where it was untracked but stayed close because of crevasses and snow bridges. As a general rule on glaciers I try to go down a slope I hike up or got a good view of it is sketchy to ride a glacier blindly.

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