Forums Boots Mods to the Scarpa ski/walk mechanism
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  • #578902
    26 Posts

    I used the Scarpa Rush boots last season and I was pretty happy with their performance all around. I was thinking it might be fun to experiment with them since I work at a gear shop and can get access to a lot of cheap parts. A ski tech dug up a pair of the scarpa ski/walk mechanism (the locking lever apparatus with a lean lock bar, he thinks likely from a Gea but I think they’re identical to what’s on the Rush), and I was thinking about drilling the lean lock bar to see if I could accomplish a slightly more playful feel in my boots.

    Has anyone tried this on Scarpa boots? I’ve seen a lot of mods done on TLTs and F1s, and I’ve heard of people shaving down plastic on all types of boots, but what have people done to the lean lock bars in the Scarpa Maestrale/Rush boots?

    1490 Posts

    The Rush is a pretty stiff boot, but I ride with some folks who ride well with them… The first thing I would do is to cut a slot upwards int he lean lock bar, this will allow more forward flex in the boot while still providing solid rearward support for heelsides.

    26 Posts

    This idea makes sense to me. I remember seeing a photo in that massive “TLT5 wow” thread where someone had shaved the hole/slot on their TLT5s to be a little longer and give more flex (just like what you’re talking about Barrows). Is it better do you think to drill a holes into the lean lock bar, or to grind the holes longer using a dremel or something.

    My other question, has anyone played with (or heard of anyone playing with) replacing lean lock bars? It seemed like a really simple idea until I looked at the boot and realized there might be more to it than i thought. The pin that holds the lean lock bar to the boot (at the bottom of the bar) seems like it might be the crux of this whole mod. Ideally I’d like to be able to switch between my two lean locks bars (just because I don’t want to commit to the mod yet).

    Has anyone gone through this yet with these boots (or the Maestrales, or any other Scarpa with the similar ski/walk mechanism)? Any advice is most appreciated cause I’ve never taken power tools to my boots before and I’d rather not screw it up too badly. Any threads on this that someone can point me towards would also be sweet.

    460 Posts

    W/ a dremel (or less ideally w/ a drill) you can lengthen the upper the hole. This is pretty easy and makes AT boots much nicer for snowboreding. U can leave the bar in the boot but it is easier to do this if you pop out the bar.

    Cutting away some shell material is also helpful but honestly I noticed the forward lean bar mod more.

    I popped out the forward lean bar in my Scarpa F3’s. Wanting more forward lean than the stock bars provided, I took them to a welder and had them fill the holes (about $20). I then made my own rectangular holes slightly higher on the bar.

    If you can buy a second set of bars then there isn’t much risk to enlarging the hole.

    I think the Rush is a totally fine boot to mod for splitting. The TLT5/6 is sexier but the Rush should work. For touring the reverse (backwards) flex on the Rush/Maestrale is awesome.

    1490 Posts

    I am going by memory here, so do not hold me to this, but as I recall the entire lean lock mech on the Rush and Maestrale are attached via bolt(s) to the upper cuff. So, I think that you could unbolt the mech, and then you have excellent access to the metal bar which governs the lean angle. My idea was that one could actually replace this bar with an entirely new one of aluminum, and then one could both implement a custom forward lean angle of exactly what you want, and then also slot the bar upwards allowing for a freer forward flex. Slotting the bar is definitely the way to go, as this allows the stiffness of the tongue (more than stiff enough on the Rush IMO) and the the buckle setting to determine the forward flex. Just make sure you do not slot the bar so far that it causes other problems in the boot (note how far the cuff can flex forward in relation to the lower shell without other problems, like buckles bottoming on each other, etc).
    In any case, slot the bar for sure, a Dremel can work, and so can a small round file.

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