Home › Forums › Splitboards › K2 Panoramic – Setup Questions
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- February 6, 2013 at 2:50 am #578226
NyMiezerParticipantHi, I am new to splitboarding and just got a 154cm K2 Panoramic with Spark Blaze Bindings Size Medium.
I am trying to setup the board properly, and have a few questions for owners of the same board out there or anyone that could help.1. Are the white lines near the tip and tail the recommended binding placement for a 22″ stance? The board is suppose to have a 1 inch set back, but when I measure from the reference lines, I have 2″ more nose than tail. Just trying to find the ideal factory recommended offset center to base my stance (20″ width, 18+ / -10)
2. I am a light rider, 130lbs 5’7″, but have bigger feet size 10 (though the imprint of my boot is a 9 with shrinkage tech).
The sparks do not sit centered on the board, they are rear biased towards the heel edge when on the pucks.
Should I center the boot over the board instead of on the binding? Currently I have a lot more heel overhang than toe. Since I cant center the binding, should I
move up the heel cup forward to shift the heel in and the toe out?3. Waxing: I know how to wax a regular board, and I always loosen my bindings. When waxing a split, there are a ton of screws on the hooks,touring brackets, and bolts on the base. Is there anything in particular I need to loosen, or avoid with the iron?
Thanks in advance
February 6, 2013 at 9:45 am #665744FloImSchneeParticipant@NyMiezer wrote:
The sparks do not sit centered on the board, they are rear biased towards the heel edge when on the pucks.
Should I center the boot over the board instead of on the binding? Currently I have a lot more heel overhang than toe. Since I cant center the binding, should I
move up the heel cup forward to shift the heel in and the toe out?If you really can’t center the pucks, definitely use the heel cup to make sure both heel and toe drag are minimized.
@NyMiezer wrote:
3. Waxing: I know how to wax a regular board, and I always loosen my bindings. When waxing a split, there are a ton of screws on the hooks,touring brackets, and bolts on the base. Is there anything in particular I need to loosen, or avoid with the iron?
I never do that with either my solid or splitboards and never had any issues. (also no screws coming loose etc)
February 6, 2013 at 8:02 pm #665745BjorgvinParticipantI also got a big heel overhang. Could not move the heelcup more either.
My solution was to turn the paralell slotted puck 180″. It has an offset, so i got the bindings more toward the toeside. Now my boot sits as close as I can get even overhang on each side.
One trick also is use the voile puck mounting tool as a starting point. Then losen up the front puck abit and slide on the binding. It will be much easier to get a nice fit without shifting the two board halves. Then slide the binding carefully of to tighten the puck. Just a tip. Your mounting tool could be a 100% fit for your bindings. Mine wasnt 😀February 7, 2013 at 6:58 am #665746ruapehu_explorerParticipanti think if the board has even nose and tail lengths, having a stance setback 1″ should move the stance 1″ back from center, and would take 1″ off the tail and add 1″ to the nose and give a 2″ difference.
setback (at least with prior’s explanation of their geometry) doesn’t count the difference in nose/tail lengths (such as long powder nose boards for backcountry) so simply measuring from the inserts’ center to the board ends doesn’t always match the setback alone.
February 8, 2013 at 6:00 pm #665747NyMiezerParticipantThanks everyone for the tips and advice.
I was able to center the boot over the board by pushing in the heel cup a bit.
The explanation of the setback stance makes sense with 2″ difference.Thanks again
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