Forums Bindings How to stop Prowder saddles moving?
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    Kahti Ryan
    48 Posts

    So I finally got to hit some steeper stuff today with my new furberg/prowder diy setup. First line all was good, after the serious amount of locktite I applied after the last time out and the saddles coming loose. The board rode like a dream! Still loving the ‘berg!

    However during the second line, which was steeper and had some harder snow so more vibrations, I felt my back foot change position half way down. On closer inspection at the bottom I found I was now in full on duck stance as the saddle had come loose and the whole back binding had twisted round about 18 degrees!

    So any suggestions on how to stop the screws loosening? Will try more locktite but have some steep lines planned for the spring of the kind you don’t want your back foot coming loose half way down, so really need something I can rely on! I guess I could epoxy them in? Anybody else been having this issue with Prowders?

    625 Posts

    I have some ideas:

    Make sure your screws aren’t too long to tighten fully.

    Epoxy or use jb weld glue to glue the lower plate to the upper plate.
    Sand the metal rough first.

    You could just glue them together in a couple of spots and then have them really welded together.

    You could add a couple of ski screws in the holes in the pieces closest to the outside edges.

    You could try to knurl up the top surface where the washer rests, the washer itself, and between the two pieces to create friction where they mash together. Maybe with a small triangular file Or a belt sander or dremel tool.

    You could use a countersink to enlarge/make curves in the slot where the screws go that match the angle of a Burton binding washer- you know the kind that the screw drops into. You’d have to use a guide for the counter sink and probably a drill press also so the bit wouldn’t move around though.

    You could take some 180 or 200 grit sandpaper, glue two sheets together leaving the rough sides out with waterproof adhesive. Once dry, sandwich the sandpaper between the lower and upper metal pieces. I think I’d try roughing everything up first and use just a few spots of jb weld or epoxy first.

    12 Posts

    I haven’t seen this issue before with our system. It sounds like the screws aren’t going all the way down.
    Are you using stock screws? Is there material in the bottom of the inserts preventing them from going down? Are you using M6 inserts, or fractional inserts? M6 inserts are the correct inserts to use. If you didn’t use some type of stop in the insert like hot glue that prevents the epoxy from entering the insert it may be bottoming out on the epoxy.

    I have seen standard snowboard inserts/ T-nuts and quiver killers compress making it extremely hard to get a M6 screw down to the correct depth. Sometime I take a M6 tap to the insert to help the screw into the insert.

    We use a hex screw so the screws can really crank down into the board. We have found we can get these screws so tight that we can actually strip the thread out of the aluminum. You can put some lock-tight on the screws if the screws are coming loose or twisting out. We haven’t found vibration loosing the screws, so it could be a combination of screws and inserts.

    If the screws are going to the bottom of the insert and staying tight you may have a problem with the screw/metal connection. We have not seen a problem with screw/metal connection before. You could try using a low profile lock washer. If you have a strong vice or shop press you could press a rough surface where the screw contacts the upper binding plate. You could use a old flat metal file or anything that has a ribbed surface.

    We have listened to all the input on our current puck design and have engineered a new version of our saddle that address many of the voile/prowder/spark issues. We also have a binding that address these issues coming out next year. We have been splitting boards for many years and have seen many issues with DIY splitboards. To solve these issues we have stopped splitting snowboards, and have begun manufacturing our own. It is easier to manufacture a splitboard than split one. To match the price of splitting a snowboard, we have priced our splitboards at $399.
    We are a company based on innovation and a love of snowboarding. Profit isn’t what we strive for, that’s why our prices are 20-50% under our competitors everyday!

    If you have any more issues please contact us at or give us a ring. We are here to help.


    Kahti Ryan
    48 Posts

    Thank you for taking the time to reply to this thread! The thing I love the most about splitting is “cottage industries” constantly improving gear for the sake of better gear, not to get rich, and the interaction with end users that is so obviously lacking in big companies.

    I’ve been pretty busy with work and our spring dump just got rained on and seriously destroyed, so havn’t had a chance to test the pucks again since re-tightening and threadlocking (have really clamped them down now, figuring maybe i was just being too gently before). Hopefully i’ll get out next week and will see how it goes before I resort to anything more drastic. Will update this thread.

    As for the connection to the board they are screwed into the pre-existing furburg inserts, which I would assume are bog standard m6 nuts?


    Kahti Ryan
    48 Posts

    Just a quick update, managed to get out the other day. Limited snow so a very long walk for a very short line!
    With the extra tightening and threadloc the pucks stayed in place, although it was only a quick descent on perfect corn. The true test will be prolonged riding on icy or bumpy terrain. Will update again if I managed to find any of this before the last of the snow melts!

    9 Posts

    Same issue here – after adjusting the saddles, i locked every screw with blue loctite threadlocker one by one. Despite of this, screws are getting loose while riding and finally i lost one at skinning – now it’s hard to find this kind of screws.
    Another issue, if go to 20-21° on the front foot, the saddle will bend up at the back/outside if you thighten the inner screw too much, that causes problem with sliding the binding on (Spar Arc).
    Occured on a factory split.

    Cheers from Austria,

    always waiting for the next dump

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