There’s lot of video’s on youtube about carbon layup.
I didn’t vacuumbag it, but it’s a wet layup. I sandwiched between two sheets of glass with wax on it and clamped that in a large woodwork vice. The only tricky part is to figure out how many layers to get the thickness you need. Layup is all unidirectional with weave as the outer layers for looks.
Carbon sheet is very expensive here, but the uni directional fibers are not if you shop around and buy a few meters. I now have enough cloth to make more than 10 of these sets for less than $100.
There’s lot of video’s on youtube about carbon layup.
I didn’t vacuumbag it, but it’s a wet layup. I sandwiched between two sheets of glass with wax on it and clamped that in a large woodwork vice. The only tricky part is to figure out how many layers to get the thickness you need. Layup is all unidirectional with weave as the outer layers for looks.
Carbon sheet is very expensive here, but the uni directional fibers are not if you shop around and buy a few meters. I now have enough cloth to make more than 10 of these sets for less than $100.
It’s just a lot of work.
I understand the carbon layup, I’m more curious about how you got the precision dimensions, the steps, etc. I almost looks as though you did the layup as a block (many layers of fiber) and then milled out the dimensions and 3-dimensional features afterward.
No milling, I don’t have the tools for that. I’m not even sure that would work with carbon.
The parts are all made out of sheets, and then epoxied back together. That’s why the steps are so smooth, the surface is not machined at all. That was simply the smartest way to do it, and I needed the same thickness everywhere or it won’t work. I’m not that worried about the two parts of the 4×4 disk beeing strong enough because it will be bolted to the board anyway.
I used regular woodworking tools and some elbow grease. I have a stationary disksander at work, and also mounted a dremel upside down into a table for the smaller corners and parts.
You can glue two parts together with some superglue in the places that are going to be cut away anyway. That way you can get most of the outline of two part identical, and its faster than making one at a time.
I have some extra parts yes, but I will test everything myself first to figure out what works. At some point I could be making a few sets for friends if everything works, but i’m not trying to make a living out of this.
I made the clips and hooks for fun, they are not going to be a lot better than what’s already on the market maybe a bit lighter and stiffer. I’m not that interested in the clips, but they are expensive to buy here in Europe so I made some myself. My goal is to make a very light binding system that has the simplicity of Voile, is not raised of the board by pucks and rails, and doesn’t need expensive bindings to work. I still think I can make that happen, and it will be cheaper than the Voile kit with Sparks too.
Those carbon parts totally blow my mind. I can’t believe you cut those out with hand tools and a dremel and not a CNC machine or a mold. Amazing work. :bow:
You just have to take your time and be precise. I like tinkering with small stuff, it’s like meditation to me.
I’m not sure using a CNC machine would help. I’ve not found anybody willing to CNC the parts here, it’s not an easy material to cut. It will delaminate, and the dust is supposed to be harmfull too.
But sanding it to shape is surprisingly easy, you can take away a lot of material fast with course 80 grit, or be really precise with fine grit. I would say it is not more difficult than making the same piece out of wood. But wear gloves, this stuff itches…. :banghead:
If I would have to make a few sets I would get it watercut, but it was too expensive for such a small number of parts.
Still need to shim it a little, and file the baseplate some more to make it fit easier. But I didn’t have a round file, and i’m out of time for this weekend…..
F-ing brilliant. Other than needing to clear snow thoroughly, it seems like an impressive concept.
Will you do some testing to determine how much torque the disc-binding interface can take, or do you just know from working with the materials that there is a huge safety margin? My greatest fear snowboarding has always been one foot coming off the board somehow.
Clearing the snow is my only concern with this system. I might wax the whole top of the board to prevent snow sticking. I have this stuff in a spraycan that I think might work… — Not sure about locking the binding in place yet. The original plan was a skishoe buckle on one side, and a simple stop on the other. So it rotates untill the stop, and is than locked in place by fastening the buckle. But with the bindings now on it feels so solid, that maybe something a little less complicated and lighter may be better.
But it will be a solution that also holds two corners of the binding down so there will be less stress on the 4×4 disk.
— And no, I don’t know how much torque this can take. I had doubts about the cabonfibre beeing strong enough. I still have room underfoot to add a few more layers of carbon, but it seems pretty solid already.
When finished I’ll make a few short runs to test and tweak, and will probably carry a spare 4×4 disk the first few trips.
Anyway, I was never sure it was going to work. But I didn’t drill into the board yet as this uses the original inserts, so I figure I can always buy pucks if this is a failure. The hooks and clips use the same hole pattern as normal, so if those fail I can replace them too.
So far I only spend some money on carbonfibre and screws, it wasn’t expensive at all. If it doesn’t work out i’ve wasted a lot of time, but it’s entertainment for you guys too…
Very slick. Pardon me for recommending some carbon fibers running vertically through that beautiful stack of layers. There’s only epoxy trying to hold the layers together. You can buy rods,tubes etc.. of carbon. Do what you can to make snow removal easy. Wet sanding is a great way to deal with carbon. The dust stays in the water and you can wrap the paper around dowels & custom shaped forms so you don’t buy files. That stuff kills files. Good work man.
I wouldn’t really know how to run fibers vertically, but you can send me a message with details. I’m interested.
Hadn’t thought of wetsanding, that makes a lot of sense.
You don’t want to breath carbon dust so clean your shop wash clothes etc. You’ll be amazed how fast carbon sands with 180 grit wet paper.
You could flip the pucks upside down and drill holes almost all the way through and glue in carbon rods. I’m not sure if that would work but it would be easy. Sports shops all have carbon arrow shafts in stock. Not a perfect fix because you rely on the glue bond so much.
You could add extra screws in the high stress areas. All the way through the pucks and into the board. You could come up with more ways to stop that crack from forming in the corner under the flange. If you could use unidirectional fibers somehow that would be good. :twocents: It would be a shame to have all that great work go to waste
I’m trying not to think of that yet… or I will lose sleep. And I want to test how strong the binding is first.
I have a set of Sparks LT mounted, but they forgot to send the pins. I figured I couldn’t really improve on the bracket much, it’s light and works.
There will be something to hold the pin to the binding, there’s no escaping that. There’s only a few ways to do that. It will either be similar to your system, or totally different. 😉