Home › Forums › Splitboard Talk Forum › Grooves in pins?
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- February 4, 2009 at 10:58 pm #571167
swannyParticipantI’ve noticed grooves in my pins where they interface with the touring bracket, and the brackets holes are out of round. This groove has caused some slop in the binding while in tour mode. I’m replacing the brackets and pins with new to solve the problem, but is this normal? I’ve got 9 days on new spark r&d pins. I’ve used the pins on 2 different boards(both boards brackets holes are out of round slightly). My old voile pins have 2 seasons on them and hardly show any ware at all. Should I have to change the bracket to maintain my pins in the future? Is their an issue with the spark pin? Has anyone else had this problem? :scratch:
February 5, 2009 at 12:19 am #614178treepilotParticipantI have the same grooves on my pins with about 30 days on sparks this season. I just had 2 of the 3 screws shear off the one bracket. I’m not sure if the two are related? The play in the pins might provide more opportunity for momentum to build and increase the stress on the screws?
February 5, 2009 at 1:15 am #614179bcriderParticipantI don’t think the groves are that big of a deal but I could be wrong. Also, the touring brackets are known to bore out a little over time. Seems like you shouldn’t be having that happen this soon though.
I wonder how anodized aluminum touring brackets would work over the stainless steel ones?
Thoughts?
Crazy pic and damage treepilot. I haven’t seen that one before or experienced it myself. Sounds like BGnight sheered a screw recently too.
February 5, 2009 at 1:23 am #614180TEXParticipantDo all of you have the same model? I have the first generation and dont have any groves , slop or broken screws ???
February 5, 2009 at 2:04 am #614181swannyParticipantI have 2nd gen. I’ll be keeping a close eye on the new ones.
Aluminum is pretty soft, may not hold up to all the stress.
Treepilot, I’ve noticed when dropping in mr. chomps on the fly if I don’t cleanly and squarely drop them in and start lowering my foot it torques the bracket. This could add stress to the screws. Have you been using them?
February 5, 2009 at 11:33 am #614182treepilotParticipantUsed them once last spring right after I got them. Didn’t bring them to Japan, but in hindsight I should have!
February 5, 2009 at 4:17 pm #614183WillParticipantHey guys,
I’ve only had a few reports of the groove problem, part of it seems to be touring brackets that are getting worn out or have a burr in them. If the brackets are out of round it’s probably time for a new set, and if your pins are grooved send me a pic (will@sparkrandd.com). We’ll send you out some new ones.Treepilot, did you go over the bars hard when you sheared those screws off? You might be able to get the busted screws out with a screw extractor from the hardware store, here’s a link on those if you haven’t seen one before: http://homerepair.about.com/od/interiorhomerepair/ss/screw_extractor.htm.
February 5, 2009 at 5:07 pm #614184mtnriderParticipantAnodizing really doesn’t add much durability, it does prevent some oxidizing but rubbing in the tour bracket will easily scratch any anodizing off after a day of touring. An aluminum pin would possibly shear off, especially once it got these infamous grooves in them.
The tour bracket is just stamped, I feel Will is correct w/ the burr on there, mine had some. If it’s sharp, it will groove even into the steel pin, there are several grades of steel as well. After the pins are bent to positioning is it possible to heat treat them to a harder Rockwell?
Take a small round file or some sandpaper and nick off/smooth out any sharps on the tour bracket.
February 5, 2009 at 5:32 pm #614185bcriderParticipantWasn’t thinking the anodizing would add much extra durability as I was just using a similar grade as what is used in Sparks as a reference. The current Voile touring brackets are stamped steel, correct? Or are they stamped aluminum? Pardon my ignorance but which one is stronger? I’ve always felt they were a little on the flimsy side and prone to bending and boring out. If they are steel then I guess one benefit is that if they do bend you can bend them back without breaking them, whereas if you bend back aluminum it typically breaks, correct?
The old Burton brackets had a plastic reinforcement that sat over the metal piece to protect it and expose less of the metal (only the holes for the pins). I wonder if something like this would add durability to the Voile brackets?
February 5, 2009 at 6:11 pm #614186SRAParticipant@bcrider wrote:
The old Burton brackets had a plastic reinforcement that sat over the metal piece to protect it and expose less of the metal (only the holes for the pins). I wonder if something like this would add durability to the Voile brackets?
Or could you make a touring bracket out of a solid piece of UHMW? This may interfere with the Mr. Chomps though. I can’t say for sure since I don’t have a pair.
I also find the metal tabs to be a bit flimsy and I find that they bend inwards a small amount and this allows for little bit of side to side play in tour mode. Not a huge deal though. A reinforced or solid toe piece would prevent this.
February 5, 2009 at 6:16 pm #614187lewmtParticipantAnyone checked with Voile to see if maybe they changed metal suppliers for the brackets? Perhaps a harder steel in use vs. before? Like Tex I have the 1st generation Sparks & no grooves or slop yet & a lot more than 30 days. Or maybe its just a burr issue with the stamping process which a file or sanding could probably cure.
Steel > Aluminum in hardness which is what would cause wear.
February 6, 2009 at 7:45 am #614188treepilotParticipant@Will wrote:
Hey guys,
Treepilot, did you go over the bars hard when you sheared those screws off? You might be able to get the busted screws out with a screw extractor from the hardware store, here’s a link on those if you haven’t seen one before: http://homerepair.about.com/od/interiorhomerepair/ss/screw_extractor.htm.Negative. Was breaking trail on a side hill in variable snow. Moving the downhill leg up when my ski no longer aligned with the binding. Zero tools here in Japan. The recommended shop is taking 2 days (and counting) to repair.
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