Forums DIY and Mods Epoxying t-nut holes flush
Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
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  • #571013
    11 Posts

    I’m just curious if anyone else out there has filled thier t-nut holes with ALL epoxy and no p-tex/metal grip? I just finished my DIY a few weeks ago. When I called my local shop (the Mountain Shop) about filling in the holes they suggested that I just fill the holes entirely with epoxy and don’t use any ptex/metal grip. They said that even the best jobs with metal grip eventually pull out. I did what they suggested and just epoxied the entire holes and then hand sanded the epoxy down and waxed over it. I have ridden the board a bunch over the past few weeks and I have to say that I can’t tell a difference. I expected it to cause a bunch of drag, but honestly I can’t feel the difference. The best part is that I have had zero problems with shit sticking to my skins. The marine epoxy that I used seems pretty bomber, so I don’t foresee any problems with epoxy wearing out anytime soon or water getting in. I’m just curious if anyone else has done the same thing and what kind of results you have had?

    Jimmy T
    13 Posts

    Interesting. I’ve heard of doing this, one of my friends actually did it. I suppose the durability is dependant on how well you did it and the type of epoxy you use. My friend said his has started to pull out.
    I’ve been trying to source metal grip ptex with no luck lately. So maybe I’ll try this route. I’ve got some really awesome epoxy. Having 24 holes in my base makes riding hardpack really annoying…

    280 Posts

    My local shop told me the same thing so I let them epoxy them in and then they did a full base grind. It worked fine and I don’t notice any drag. It doesn’t look as clean as P-Tex but does the job.

    The Fonz
    16 Posts

    I just finished putting my home split together and I used a two part putty epoxy for the holes in the bottom of the t-nuts. Its actually gas tank repair, just kneed the two putties together until they make one solid color, then jam it in the holes. After it set up nice and hard I sanded them smooth as a babies butt. I think because it worked into the threads of the t-nuts its not going to pull out very easily, but I guess the true test will be when I finally try it out. Hopefully next weekend.

    198 Posts

    i made the mistake of using 5min epoxy – lepage brand in the split syringe, and it has resulted in me pulling epoxy chunks out of my skin glue every time i go out. you may fare better with your marine epoxy, its been recommended before.

    336 Posts

    Yes, Marine Epoxy, or any “slow curing”, aka, 4+ hr, longer the better, 2-part epoxy is money. The quick setting, 5-minute stuff is just too brittle. The first time you flex the board the board in the cold the stuff cracks and shatters…

    The Marine stuff is good for sidewall repair or sealing the inside edge of a home split job… Almost as good as a ptex sidewall, but not quite the same.. 😉

    Greg - NoKnees

    93 Posts

    @libtechsplit wrote:

    i made the mistake of using 5min epoxy – lepage brand in the split syringe, and it has resulted in me pulling epoxy chunks out of my skin glue every time i go out. you may fare better with your marine epoxy, its been recommended before.

    I tried this with epoxy and p-tex over it and had the same results, I don’t remember what kind of epoxy I used but it didn’t work for me and I ended up redoing them.

    11 Posts

    Update: I have ridden my board 20+ times this season and I am pleased to report that it rides awesome and the epoxy shows no signs of wear or pulling out. I also was just checking out Monk’s website and it looks like this is how he fills the holes too. His website states that he will “flush epoxy fill on all inserts for a smooth base.” If I am reading this correctly, then he does not use p-tex to fill the holes. So I guess epoxying the holes flush is way more common than I thought. Definitely sounds like the way to go.

    10 Posts

    My wife has now been out splitting on the DIY about 10 days, with lots of skin ripping laps and no failures to the epoxy. I used 2 part marine grade epoxy and gave it 4 days cure before using the board. Waxed and scraped 3 times since, and even the heating of the base to get good wax penetration has not affected the epoxy.

    50 Posts

    what did you do about the t-nuts that were open/did not have a screw in them?

    I built out a board and installed 6 t-nuts per side so it would be adjustable – like a factory board. Didn’t think about the fact that I now have to fill a bunch of insert holes with threads going straight through to the top of the board.

    Two options under consideration. I have some sheet ptex that I was thinking about cutting out disks that I could –
    a) epoxy to the bottom of the t-nut, and then melt ptex cord on to that up to the surface level
    b) fill the screw holes with something I can remove (like a screw covered w/vaseline) and then fill the insert holes with epoxy to just under the board surface. Let that cure, and then come back and epoxy a disk of the sheet ptex flush with the the surface.

    After reading a bit more I am thinking (b) may be the way to go. Sheet ptex seems to the best material to use on the board based on durability.

    185 Posts

    hey d –

    best way I’ve found is to put a screw in through the top (no vasoline necessary) :thumpsup:

    thread a screw in as deep as you will need for the hardware it’s going to be securing (otherwise it will bottom out in the epoxy and push it out once it’s set-up). the threads of the screw are tight enough that the epoxy won’t leak in. and once the epoxy is set up, the screw comes out real easy-like. bing!

    50 Posts

    Thanks Monk

    as always, you da man :thatrocks:

    hoping to get this thing finished over the weekend. Girlfriend’s xmas present, finished just 3 short months late!

    50 Posts

    Update – I finished the board 2 weeks ago, and my girlfriend and I took it out for it’s inaugural tour on Sunday. Happy to report the flush epoxy worked out great. No need for P-tex

    I used 2-part marine grade epoxy (g-flex 650) from west systems. You can pick it up at West Marine supplies if anyone is looking for it.


    I just split my old GNU (not ready to split one of my Lib’s just yet). The cut turned out perfect as did all the holes I had to drill and fill. (I must admit I was a little nervous at first). I bought some of the West Systems G-Flex 650 marine epoxy that DeeJayoh recommended above. It worked perfect. I also used it to seal the sides. Anyhow, wanted to thank everyone for the advice… These threads have made things easier. Now I just have to learn how to skin up the steeps.



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