Dynafit TLT6 MOD Thread

[JMAutio 59 Posts]

Decided to post this one here as it seems to be mostly boot related issue. I bought dynafit 130mm crampons, I can´t bend the shoe forward enough to slip them in? Seems like the sole is a few mm too thick? Anybody have the same issue? I have TLT Superlites which came with Phantoms+TLT6 size 26 shells.

[HansGLudwig 601 Posts]

That seems really weird; like something is not setup correctly. Can you post pics? You should be able to do it on the fly.
Are you pulling up on the touring latch after you step in?

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[JMAutio 59 Posts]

It´s setup alright, there´s really nothing to actually setup as the phantom adapter is preinstalled and it doesn´t even affect the fit. The boot toecap bottoms on the red metal rod of the locking mechanism. nothing is restricting or binding the crampon slot. Pulling up the latch doesn´t affect the geometry on my bindings..?

http://postimg.org/image/ctwuu5ff3/

[vapor 350 Posts]

Modded with rubber bumper for those icy crud days

[JMAutio 59 Posts]

JMAutio wrote:

Decided to post this one here as it seems to be mostly boot related issue. I bought dynafit 130mm crampons, I can´t bend the shoe forward enough to slip them in? Seems like the sole is a few mm too thick? Anybody have the same issue? I have TLT Superlites which came with Phantoms+TLT6 size 26 shells.

So anyone else is not experiencing the problem desctibed above? Because I got an answer from Dynafit that it’s not possible to slide the crampon in with the boot attached on the superlights..? Kinda suspicious to me, because this is a question of like 2mm of clearance. I think I’ll just file a little off from everywhere.

Dynafit wrote:

Unfortunately this does not work with any binding in this super light binding.
So you will have to take off the board and slide the crampon in and put it back on.

This maybe does not solve your problem, but unfortunately this is the only way to put them on.

Have fun with the split board and the binding.

[Dave Campbell 2 Posts]

Barrows and crew: very cool beta here.

I modified a new pair of TLT6’s, but am getting much less forward lean than with my BD Slants & BD Primes, when the top buckle is locked. Are you filling away the metal shown in the original post, in addition to the plastic?

[Adam Zok 2 Posts]

Dave, you have to remove the plastic as well, so that it matches up with the hole in the (metal) forward lean plate. Otherwise, the mod doesn’t really do anything for you. I’d also remove even more metal than you already have. Just file it by hand so you don’t accidentally cut all the way through it. You can check out Barrows’ pic for a good example.

Another mod I made to my boots a few days ago is replacing the power strap with one of the stretchy “Booster” straps you often see skiers use. When I do my boots up, I leave the top buckle quite loose, and achieve my desired tightness primarily by cranking down on the Booster strap. Since it’s elastic, it gives the boot a much more progressive response as you transition from heel to toe, as opposed to almost no resistance until you max it out and “hit the wall.” I’d highly recommend it. The medium strength one (I think they call it Expert/Racer) seems appropriate to me.

I cut my shells down like Barrows did as well, and may remove even a tiny bit more on the lateral side to make it easier to lean back…but not that much.

If you’re finding the forward lean too severe when making a heelside turn, you can extend the hole in the forward lean plate downward to reduce it. I brought mine back quite a ways, but don’t like riding soft boots with much forward lean either.

[Dave Campbell 2 Posts]

Adam, I’vve been riding in my BD boots this season, and am waiting until the mods are done, and noticed the restriction in forward lean when comparing the two. It sounds like I need to remove some plastic. I filed away as much metal as possible, as you can see at the link (sorry, my connection is not letting me post photos): http://s1159.photobucket.com/user/davencampbell/media/IMG_1154_zpsvhis9una.jpg.html

The Booster straps look rad and I’m going to check them out!

[Adam Zok 2 Posts]

You can remove a little more metal Dave, just go straight up from the vertically oriented walls in your hole until there’s very little metal left. The peg that engages ride mode is kind of wide, so it won’t go up all that far where the hole starts to taper down. Check the photo in the original post to see how much metal you can get away with removing. He got pretty aggressive with it, I didn’t go quite that far for fear of breaking it but definitely more than yours.

[Jimy 66 Posts]

How did you guys go about removing the power strap? How did you break the rivet?

knuckle dragger

[cometogether 385 Posts]

chowtown- I just cut the strap on both ends but if your trying to reuse that hole then rivets are drilled out..

[Jimy 66 Posts]

@cometogether, that worked perfectly, was able to remove the power straps no problem after drilling out the rivet, although as you might notice in the photos below, I let one of them get a little hot.

My next question is in regards to forward lean and the rear height of the boot. I have my new splitboard on order, but have been working on getting the boots and bindings dialed in at the resort I teach at whenever I get a chance to use it. I’m thinking about filing the forward lean plate down as well, the way @jvosburgh and @barrows recommended to dial it in.

I was able to take some photos comparing it to my soft boot setup. It looks like I have just a little more forward lean in the TLT6 currently, and will probably want to file down to mellow it out (and I can definitely feel it in my quads when riding). But I also noticed that the rear height is significantly taller than the top of my soft boot bindings. Has anyone cut that down (since most are not using the power strap)?

knuckle dragger

[cometogether 385 Posts]

I have not cut the boot down at all, I just went from soft boot to hard boot back and forth until they felt Very similar, I did file the boot to stand more upright, so I filed the groove both up and down so that the flex would be similar to my soft boots. (burton ion) just remember that the boot is also your high back of the binding so to speak. so don’t go to crazy or it might be super comfy but lack the heel edge bite it requires with no binding back there.. make sense?

ps those are some funky colors for the tlt6 are they this years colors! ?

[jvosburgh 22 Posts]

Im onto my 4th pair and I have never cut anything off the cuff. I know others do but I just dont feel i need to. I do mod the Sh@# out of the forward flex (ski Mode) hole. I have played quite a bit with the forward lean. I have recently changed them to lower than the lowest forward lean setting and been enjoying it. Ive been able to ride the boot a bit tighter than I could with more forward lean. TLT6’s are like wine… the older the berry the sweeter the juice.

[Jimy 66 Posts]

@jvosburgh, I also heard from @adamzok that you ride with the green soft tongues in as well. Do you do that to help create a more progressive forward flex after opening up the lean plate so much?

knuckle dragger

[jvosburgh 22 Posts]

precisely why I do it. I also never take it out on the way up… less hassles and chance of loosing it..

[cometogether 385 Posts]

YO JV
you should contribute some pics to the hard boot airs with style thread! I know you got that skill…

[karkis 270 Posts]

hi!!
RMR has a park now so i got a NS Proto and a spare set of Phantoms’ ride mode, for me at this point it’s cheaper than getting soft boots n binders which fkn crush my arches anyway….

i’ve been happy with my boots for years but i thought id soften em up a bit more so i don’t overdrive this jib stick…
i was drilling holes in the cuff, inspired by @keffler, just near the top of the cuff altho John suggested they wouldn’t soften it much unless i drill closer to the cuffs pivot point…

i did same same to my Ones and on those boots it was very obvious that while the top of the cuff was softening up (just a bit), the bottom of the cuff wasn’t doing anything… that is to say the plastic there was kind of open, hardly even keeping the snow out of the boot, providing support by preventing compression but not taking any tension from the buckle, all the tension was thru the top of the cuff…. which got me thinking, and i noticed that on the tlt6s it was similar tho not quite as obvious.

So i lowered the ladder side of the buckle, which is on the medial surface of the cuff, so that the buckle tensions lower and loosens up the upper cuff on the medial side.

i think this mod is pretty sweet, it really added a lot of medial and forward flex. Its pretty low commitment, potentially a newbie hardbooter could do this mod first, it only takes 2 small holes in the cuff and is otherwise completely reversible, and the 2 lil holes probably wouldn’t affect the resale value of the boots much, unlike the rest of the hacking and drilling I’ve done to my boots.

It snowed last week so i haven’t hit the park yet, but it felt really good in the pow!!

never summer snowboards
phantom splitboard bindings
dynafit touring
atomic boots

[Eirikverlo@gmail.com 42 Posts]

Karkis I see you have a tongue in your boot? How does it ride with a tongue? Was thinking it might give more steady flex with the locking mode modification, but I dont know. Has anyone else tried to ride with the soft tongue, maybe even a modified tongue?

[Jimy 66 Posts]

@eirikverlogmail-com, I ride with the soft tongues in after hearing @jvosburgh did the same. I love it. It definitely makes for a steady progressive flex on the toeside edge. Feels just like my K2 Thraxis soft boots now.

knuckle dragger