Forums DIY and Mods Drilling out my Burton for Voile interface… Help?
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  • #567391
    boardergirl
    85 Posts

    Hi All.

    I’m new to the forum. Spent a little time checkin’ it out yesterday and was pretty impressed. I thought my little crew were the only splitboarding freaks out there.

    Anyway, on to the question. We were wrecking some sick lines on Monday and just before dropping about a 55 degree chute my husband noticed some slop in his binding while skinning up. It actually pulled completely off of his board. The metal base plate was completly cracked in half. SOOOOOO, on to the Voile setup.

    I did alot of reading about all the problems everyone has been having with the Burton interface and thought you might be able to help. We’re supposed to receive the Voile interface today and we’re getting the drill all warmed up. Does anyone know how many holes we’re going to be drilling in that beautiful base? Are we talking 12 in each ski? Are all these holes going to wreck the integrity of the board? Anyone like to share any advice before we get going would be appreciated. I have read the other threads on the adapter plate that was machined out and someone else with a carbon fiber adapter plate, but that’s not really an option for us.
    Anyway, any advice would be great. I’m pretty stoked to have found the board. I was actually directed here by the customer service dude at Voile.
    Thanks in advance!
    Boardergirl

    p.s. I don’t know how to add photos yet… but I’ll give it a try.

    http://community.webshots.com/myphotos?action=showPhoto&albumID=546726753&photoID=2363215230084868618&security=DLscVh

    #585662
    Ecobrad
    2068 Posts

    Welcome, boardergirl.

    I assume you’ve checked out Jack’s awesome project. Read about it here:
    http://talk.splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=1805

    Other than that I can’t be very helpful. Good luck.

    PS We’d love to see some northern Utah trip reports!

    #585663
    SanFrantastico
    1514 Posts

    With the caveot that I’ve *never* done this and don’t own a Burton split, I would look into drilling the Voile hardware to mate with the Burton deck, rather than drilling the deck to mate with the hardware, whenever possible. Just my take on it. Similar to Jack’s project, but you could maybe cut out some steps by drilling the Voile pucks to mate with the deck.

    Putting the poo in swimming pool since 1968.

    #585664
    bigboater
    29 Posts

    2 days ago on my last skin up, the arms that hold on the pins finaly snapped off. Luckily I have the split kit standing by. I have been working on adapting it the last couple of nights.

    What Jack is doing on the other post looks like it kicks ass, but he’s got lots of fancy equipment on hand. However I was able to snipe some of his ideas and make it all work with just a drill and hack saw so far.

    First off, for the Voile touring bracket I drilled two new holes where the burton holes are on the board. I used the burton Alan screws from the Burton touring bracket and screwed the Voile bracket in. This is all stolen from Jack’s post. It feels solid, but I may put a screw in the front hole later.

    For the heal riser/block I also did what Jack did but without the fancy equipment. I took a 1/4 inch thick piece of aluminum (you can probably get this at Home Depot) and cut it out to the size of the shim that comes with the Voile heal block. I just did this with a hack saw. Next I drilled the holes in the aluminum plate where the burton block holes are. The aluminum plate will be screwed to the Burton board using the original holes. Next you need to drill holes in the aluminum plate for the Voile block. Try to align everything with the paper template that comes with the kit. Now I just inserted the T-nuts into the holes on the aluminum plate (cut off the little teeth tab things), so now the plate has threads to which you can attach the Voile heal block to the aluminum plate which is attached to the board. If you want to do it right, you can use a tap-and-dye kit to cut threads into the aluminum plate instead of using T-nuts. (I don’t have the kit and was already to drunk to make a trip to the tool store). My version doesn’t look as pretty as Jack’s but if feels strong and light.

    That’s as far as I got. I plan to attach the Voile pucks with the ski screws that come with them. It will require drilling (8 on each ski) but there will be no crappy ass T-nuts on the bottom of my board. I was going to just drill holes in the pucks where the original Burton holes fall (sort of like what Jack did), but the hollow nature of the Voile puck won’t be strong enough. This is where the lack of fancy equipment hurts. Don’t think I’m going to attempt to make carbon fiber pucks with a hack saw.

    As far as the Ying/Yang hooks and nose/tail clips, I’m just going to keep the Burton ones because I like them better anyway.

    I’m going to miss my Burton interface. This is a sad day. It really worked well in my opinion, it just needed some wrinkles ironed out. Maybe someone with fancy equipment can buy the patent off of Burton and improve on the design that they so quickly gave up on 😉

    #585665
    boardergirl
    85 Posts

    Thanks for the responses. I have a good friend that does all the ski/board fixes at our local shop. He’s been persuaded into helping with the project, so I’m hoping we can avoid too many new holes. I wish Jack would have kicked it in the butt and put his adapter plates into production so I could just rely on his skills.
    If anyone else has any last minute ideas, I’m more than willing to take ideas.

    Ecobrad… I’ll try to drop some trip reports in here. It’s been pretty epic here the last week. Northern Utah got clipped with a small storm that turned BIG… 18″ on top of about 30″ from 4 days earlier. The 18 was cold smoke… So nice. Everything was very stable in the backcountry, probably the best it’s been all year. All I can say is EPIC!
    Thanks again.

    #585666
    jack
    323 Posts

    Hey guys, I’m glad that my conversion thread helped out, that’s exactly why I posted it all 😀

    A few things I learned:
    I thought about buying the Voile DIY pucks and drilling them for the Burton inserts similar to what i did with my own pucks. i figured if the cavity on the back of the insert was a problem, you could fill that space up with washers around the bolts. This might be confusing to the reader…so you drill your own holes in the voile pucks, and then that space between the deck and the bottom of the voile puck, you put washers around the bolt. If this is confusing, I can draw a picture.

    The pucks I made were made on a mill. When I was doing it though, I thought you could probably do the same thing using a router (like you use on wood) it might take a few tries, but it would be doable. Might even be a little quicker actually.

    I made paper templates of how the Voile touring holes line up with the Burton touring stuff. I have them as a PDF that prints 1:1, so if I can get someone to host a PDF, you guys would be welcome to use it.

    #585667
    bigboater
    29 Posts

    Jack,
    I thought about the washer/spacer thing, but would you need to countersink the screws and if so, would the plastic be thick enough? If one was to use a router to make the puck, where could one get the material? Thanks for giving up these ideas. Your post couldn’t have come at a better time.
    Matt

    #585668
    InTheMountains
    216 Posts

    Jack probably has a better source/material, but if you need a mail order, Lee Valley tools sells UHMW Polyethylene
    another source might be McMaster Carr

    stuff worked for some of my previous projects…

    Gary the Hypocrite

    #585669
    SanFrantastico
    1514 Posts

    BigBoater – You could also try calling Tap Plastics:

    http://www.tapplastics.com/info/plasticsinfo.php?

    I have no idea if they ship, but they sell materials and have a shop and can machine stuff to order.

    Jack – I can host your PDF for you. If you could also make a 1:1 PDF of the main Burton hole pattern, that would make a great template for drilling pucks as well.

    Putting the poo in swimming pool since 1968.

    #585670
    jack
    323 Posts

    bigboater- i dont know, how thick is the plastic? honestly, i would just try it. if they rip out, you could still use the holes on the corners that you’re supposed to use for a DIY. in other words, you wouldnt have to buy new pucks. i think if they are .125″ or thicker that should be thick enough. (and i would guess they are exactly .125″ thick–voile guys?)

    the white plastic i originally used was just some UHMWPE i found laying around. basically the same stuff as p-tex. the black plastic stuff i ended up using i just got at the hardware store from a scrap bin, i didnt really want to wait and pay for some mail order fancy plastic. i think its some kind of ABS.

    #585671
    boppingshoe
    83 Posts

    Has anybody tried Voile’s Universal Discs instead of making new pucks? I’m just wondering how they fit (or don’t fit ) the old Burton inserts.

    #585672
    jack
    323 Posts

    here is the template:

    http://www.storn.com/splitting/tech/Conversion_Template.pdf

    please double check everything, so when stuff doesnt line up, you cant blame me 😉

    thanks san fran for hosting it. bcr, if you want to snag a copy to host here, go for it.

    #585673
    jimw
    1421 Posts

    @boppingshoe wrote:

    Has anybody tried Voile’s Universal Discs instead of making new pucks? I’m just wondering how they fit (or don’t fit ) the old Burton inserts.

    Check out utahgirl’s post:

    http://talk.splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?p=11759#11759

    Looks like it should work!

    #585674
    bigboater
    29 Posts

    I found a local plastics store and picked up exactly what I needed for a whopping sum of $3. I think its called polycarbonate. Its crystal clear and cuts like a dream. I was able to machine it with just a table saw. Unfortunately I didn’t have the template yet so I just used a pencil rubbing over the holes. Everything fit together perfectly and the clear pucks are quite stylish. I’m thinking of adding some neon lights so they match the kicker boxes in the trunk. The new pucks actually feel and look much more stout than the factory ones.

    I took it out for a trial run at Burthoud pass on some steeps and everything performed perfectly. No adjustment to be made. Best of all, I didn’t drill a single hole in my board.
    Thanks Jack.
    I can post some pics if anyone is interested.

    #585675
    Jogi
    158 Posts

    @bigboater wrote:

    …I can post some pics if anyone is interested.

    yes, yes … do it! please …

    #585676
    bigboater
    29 Posts

    OK, here’s some pics. Enjoy!

    .Splitboard refit

    Sorry, couldn’t figure out quite how to post them directly in the response.

    #585677
    bcrider
    4149 Posts

    nice work bb! 8)

    #585678
    Jogi
    158 Posts

    hey bb! the clear pucks look cool. good job!
    have fun …

    #585679
    burton
    329 Posts

    the puks are nice … it is PMAA ???

    welcome to your problems in the could winter
    it s not resistent – thake POM

    burton

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