DIY Fastec reclining highback on spark tesla binders

This topic has 34 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 8 months ago by peacefrog.

Viewing 15 posts - 21 through 35 (of 35 total)

← 1 2

Author
Posts
December 9, 2014 at 12:11 am #682354
rughty
Participant
Here is a quick sketch how one way to use GNU/SP cables without cutting them and keeps a more direct line to keep plates from flexing. Sorry pic is sideways.
December 9, 2014 at 1:16 am #682487
rughty
Participant
I did a tour on Friday up at Carson Pass with my wife. Touring only. I have a pair of those SP splitboard bindings. Yes, they are pretty much like my first pair of conversions. Slider plate welded to the bottom of their Slab1 Mountain bindings. The one thing that I noticed most was the positioning of the highback pivot point. I find it is far too low. It was a struggle to get my boots in and out as the highback kept getting stuck on the top side of my heel sole. My boots are a size 9.5 and not bulky either. Definitely a problem if this occurs on the solid bindings at the resort. I’ll be finding that out soon. The one thing I like about the Flow entry system is this never has happened. The pivot point on the Flow’s is a little higher than the SP/GNU bindings. If you go with the SP/GNU highbacks, I would suggest making the pivot point a little higher than the stock height. This would also help a little on the long cable length aspect.
December 9, 2014 at 7:08 pm #684878
rughty
Participant
Flow/Tesla (or probably any Spark binding) adapter plate sitting next to an SP/GNU splitboard binding
December 9, 2014 at 11:43 pm #685386
peacefrog
Participant
Would that be compatible with the drawing you made or would the plastic housing at the end of the cable interfere with the stud?
December 10, 2014 at 12:14 am #685390
rughty
Participant
The holes could be drilled anywhere for the cable routing. The cable is pretty stiff too so the larger the radius bend the better. Seeing how the plastic cable holder is mounted on the SP bindings, two holes would need drilled for one position and 1 for each additional adjustment location. It is really going to depend on how much forward lean is required keeping in mind that there are also adjustments on the highbacks just as the Flow highbacks have. Also boot size and where the pivot mount is located in regards to the base plate is critical. Having all the parts in hand and knowledge of your personal binding setup is really the only way to determine what can be achieved with modding any piece of equipment. Lots of factors = fun and difficult puzzle. I don’t have a picture, but another way to keep the adjustability in the cable easy would to install a “pulley” at the stud location with an offset hole. You could tighten it down at the perfect cable adjustment and run a second screw (or even a SS rivot for a lighter solution) through predrilled holes in the pulley and plate so they don’t loosen up on you. Simple task really and it certainly would be one of a kind DIY engineering at that.
I forgot to draw in the cable end mounting holes. I would give it only 2 holes using the offset pulley method and 3 or 4 without. You wouldn’t need the pulley I think on both sides. That much adjustment would be pretty ridiculous.
December 10, 2014 at 1:27 am #685454
rughty
Participant
Quick proto
December 10, 2014 at 5:21 am #685576
peacefrog
Participant
That qualifies as super cool
December 10, 2014 at 5:29 am #685577
peacefrog
Participant
Ugh I guess if you use an emoticon it voids everything you write after that. So what I had added that apparently disappeared was that I wondered if moving the pulley to closer to the highback attach,emt point would allow more room for the plastic housing at the cable terminus. It would also mean you would have a shallower bend in the cable. You might be able to use one of the holes currently drilled for the pulley as an attachment point. Another great thing about this mod is that it would allow you to engage the highback without the pulley to give you a negative forward leave while touring. That would also solve the problem of coming out of your bindings in walk mode.
December 10, 2014 at 7:01 am #685617
splitboard.com
Keymaster
testing 8) testing
www.splitboard.com
December 10, 2014 at 7:02 am #685618
splitboard.com
Keymaster
🙂 ;kjnvsjvna;fvna;dfln
D) d;kjdfvanfviofvivd
8) ;sdjvafvhaoih
seems isolated @peacefrog unless I’m not understanding the steps needed to reproduce the issue
I also added more info regarding our bbcode smilies in the forum conversion thread
www.splitboard.com
December 10, 2014 at 7:37 am #685637
peacefrog
Participant
I’m guessing it is specific to an iPad. I was using the emoticons accessed through the iPad keyboard. I’ll try from a desktop tomorrow
December 10, 2014 at 7:38 am #685638
rughty
Participant
The problem with negative lean and the Fastec ankle straps is that when the highback reaches a certain angle in the negative direction, the ankle strap unlocks. What I noticed with touring in the stock SP split bindings is that touring with the highbacks unlocked, my boot didn’t force the highback beyond the unlocking point of the ankle strap so it stayed locked. No telling if this is because they haven’t been used much yet and time will tell if this continues or they loosen up over time.
December 10, 2014 at 5:03 pm #685782
FrankH
Participant
rughty wrote:
I did a tour on Friday up at Carson Pass with my wife. Touring only. I have a pair of those SP splitboard bindings. Yes, they are pretty much like my first pair of conversions. Slider plate welded to the bottom of their Slab1 Mountain bindings. The one thing that I noticed most was the positioning of the highback pivot point. I find it is far too low. It was a struggle to get my boots in and out as the highback kept getting stuck on the top side of my heel sole. My boots are a size 9.5 and not bulky either. Definitely a problem if this occurs on the solid bindings at the resort. I’ll be finding that out soon. The one thing I like about the Flow entry system is this never has happened. The pivot point on the Flow’s is a little higher than the SP/GNU bindings. If you go with the SP/GNU highbacks, I would suggest making the pivot point a little higher than the stock height. This would also help a little on the long cable length aspect.
I think I inadvertently raised the pivot point on my highbacks from the stock location. They seemed to work pretty good on my short tour and ~1000ft ride on Jones pass in CO last time I was out. Less fatigue than normal and better edge control with the strappy straps.
I did engage my new tesla heel locks with the highback locked and the strappy straps, expecting it to ski pretty good. Unfortunately the extra leverage from the highback being locked and strapped on causes the heel locks to pop off immediately when I put any pressure on them.
I think I will try your cable redirection idea, I wold like to have the cable mount to the forward bolt into the tesla baseplate to minimize flex.
January 14, 2015 at 5:46 pm #778274
rughty
Participant
Got some GNU/SP binding highback adaptor plates made up for Peacefrog.
drilled some holes in some 1/8″ 6061 plate stock

cut out the profile

got them powdercoated and shipped off

Peacefrog got them assembled and mounted

Mounting holes are drilled out for both original Spark bases and the Tesla bases. These were designed to exact specifications. Extra holes could have been added to accommodate more adjustability.
January 16, 2015 at 8:28 am #778356
peacefrog
Participant
Thanks for posting the pics righty. The plates worked great. I haven’t got to try them in the field yet. With conditions what they are who knows when I will. I’ll update when I do.
Author
Posts