Forums DIY and Mods DIY Fastec reclining highback on spark tesla binders
Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 35 total)
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  • #580209
    FrankH
    35 Posts

    After seeing rughty’s thread with flow highbacks, I decided to see if I could put together a similar setup to help eliminate some of my least favorite parts of the spark binders.

    I hate the forward lean adjust on the the burner highbacks, they are difficult to move and reset for the transition to riding. I much prefered the cubes on my ignition II’s or karakoram’s solution. I also really dislike strapping into the bindings in tour mode. Its awkward as shit. I never liked flow binders at the resort, but I figured I could give the highbacks a try with regular straps.

    First, I prototyped the adapter plate on a 3D printer:

    Then I traced that to some AL plate and hacked them out with a jig saw/dremel. I skipped the cutout to increase strength and stiffness. I got one tour on Berthoud Pass with them before summer. Unfortunately it didn’t involve too much flat skinning, and was pretty short so I didn’t get a great feel for the performance:

    Here is the finished product with some paint:

    As rughty discovered, with the highback lever open, it is easy to fall out of the binding while touring. To solve this, I am using a spark strappy strap through the highback and around the top of the boot. This should make the whole setup a lot more like a hard boot in touring mode. When I lock the lever, it will probably ski pretty good as well. I will report back when I get some more time on them this season.

    #677888
    BobGnarly
    220 Posts

    Nice work dude. Its true about the spark forward lean, they suck.
    I actually stripped the tiny thread in mine

    #677889
    rughty
    620 Posts

    Very nice! I am experimenting with the SP Bindings this season. I do like the tech that Flow and SP has brought to the table with their highbacks and I am shocked it has taken this long to get it into the splitbinding market. It just makes sense…

    #677890
    FrankH
    35 Posts

    Thanks guys.

    I liked the cable management on the SP binders better than flows, seems like they should feel a little more like a traditional high back. I’m pretty stoked to do some long flat approaches and split skiing on these with the straps around the top.

    They feel a bit softer now than with the stock highbacks, partly due to some give in the cable, hopefully they hold up. I’m going to carry some cord to patch them up if I snap a cable.

    #677891
    ieism
    298 Posts

    Like it. You could even buy just the Tesla baseplate kit and build these cheaper than a full set of Sparks.

    http://flatlandsplitfest.com/

    #677892
    FrankH
    35 Posts

    Potentially.

    These are built on a magneto baseplate upgrade kit, straps from my old burner bindings, and the gnu highbacks. I wouldn’t want to use the straps from the gnu bindings, since the toe strap doesn’t have a ratchet and the heel strap is built to pop open when the highback moves.

    #677893
    peacefrog
    376 Posts

    Nice work Dude! I’ll be looking for some old flows at this years ski swap. Any reason this wouldn’t work on a Fuse baseplate?

    #677894
    FrankH
    35 Posts

    @peacefrog wrote:

    Nice work Dude! I’ll be looking for some old flows at this years ski swap. Any reason this wouldn’t work on a Fuse baseplate?

    Nope, no reason it wouldn’t work, just adjust the aluminum plates to fit the heel cup mount hole pattern. I was originally looking to adapt this to my Ignition IIs a few seasons ago, should be possible on all spark bindings.

    I am looking at making a second iteration of my adapter plates. I want the cable to pull on the plate exactly in line with the forward mounting hole, so that there is a more direct load path. I think some of the extra rearward flexibility I am experiencing is due to the plates flexing outward when the cable pulls on them.

    Anybody have a slick way of shortening flow/fastec type cables? Or making your own?

    #677895
    peacefrog
    376 Posts

    @FrankH wrote:

    @peacefrog wrote:

    Nice work Dude! I’ll be looking for some old flows at this years ski swap. Any reason this wouldn’t work on a Fuse baseplate?

    Nope, no reason it wouldn’t work, just adjust the aluminum plates to fit the heel cup mount hole pattern. I was originally looking to adapt this to my Ignition IIs a few seasons ago, should be possible on all spark bindings.

    Anybody have a slick way of shortening flow/fastec type cables? Or making your own?

    I do not have access to a 3d printer. Any ideas on how to figure out a template?

    Thanks

    #677896
    FrankH
    35 Posts

    @peacefrog wrote:

    @FrankH wrote:

    @peacefrog wrote:

    Nice work Dude! I’ll be looking for some old flows at this years ski swap. Any reason this wouldn’t work on a Fuse baseplate?

    Nope, no reason it wouldn’t work, just adjust the aluminum plates to fit the heel cup mount hole pattern. I was originally looking to adapt this to my Ignition IIs a few seasons ago, should be possible on all spark bindings.

    Anybody have a slick way of shortening flow/fastec type cables? Or making your own?

    I do not have access to a 3d printer. Any ideas on how to figure out a template?

    Thanks

    Trace your current heel cups bolt pattern on to some Al plate, then before you disassemble the donor binders, measure the vertical position of the flow/fastec highback in relation to the footbed. Drill the highback mounting hole at that height, and at the approximate horizontal position you desire. If you drill several holes to mount it to the spark baseplate, you can adjust the horizontal position for the right fit. Al is pretty cheap, so don’t worry if you mess up the first set.

    #677897
    peacefrog
    376 Posts

    Hi Frank,
    Can you post a picture of the finished adaptor plate by itself? It’s a little difficult to get a feel for the forward cable attachment with the black on black.

    #677898
    FrankH
    35 Posts

    @peacefrog wrote:

    Hi Frank,
    Can you post a picture of the finished adaptor plate by itself? It’s a little difficult to get a feel for the forward cable attachment with the black on black.

    Ill try and grab a pic one of the plastic prototypes tonight. I basically just copied the way it mounts on the Gnu binders. There are two holes, one for the screw and another accepts a plastic protrusion on the end piece to keep it from rotating. This is sort of shown in the first pic of the thread. In that pic, I was experimenting with mounting them to the inside, but I settled on the outside for boot clearance reasons.

    Getting the placement of the cable holes relative to the highback mounting hole is pretty crucial, however, you can adjust the forward lean to compensate if it is to close or far away.

    FYI I used 1/8″ AL plate, but it definitely flexes a little when the highback is loaded. I would recommend trying to place the cable mount in line with the bolts to the baseplate for a more direct load path. This wasn’t possible for me based on my fore/aft positioning to fit the boots. It could be done by shortening the cable.

    #677899
    FrankH
    35 Posts

    Since I keep forgetting to take a picture (and don’t feel like taking them apart) here is an image of the plate in CAD. I would include dimensions, but they are all eyballed off both the GNU and Spark binders anyway.

    #677900
    nearls
    162 Posts

    Been wanting to do this for a while. Like you guys say it makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the inspiration!

    #677901
    FrankH
    35 Posts

    Sweet! Nice work nearls!

    Glad to see other people recognize the benefits of this. What did you use to cut out the plates?

    #677902
    whistlermaverick
    312 Posts

    Surprised manufacturers hadn’t already addressed this.
    Traditional split bindings are looking better every year.

    @j.memay

    #677903
    firstlight
    721 Posts

    mine from a few years ago when I couldn’t get small sparks for the wife.
    No high back adjustment other than moving the clamping block.
    I think the SP binding may have this feature now?

    Cheers

    Adam West

    www.firstlightsurfboards.com.au
    www.firstlightsnowboards.com.au
    www.splitfest.com.au
    www.snowsafety.com.au
    www.mrbc.com.au
    www.backcountryglobal.com
    www.alpinefirstaid.com.au

    #677904
    FrankH
    35 Posts

    The SP bindings do have the reclining high back, but they are just a standard binding, welded to the voile plate. Not really cutting edge.

    The new PLUM bindings had them in some images I saw.

    #677905
    nearls
    162 Posts

    Thanks Frank. Just used a drill press and jig saw. Bit of elbow grease too cleaning them up with the file.

    #677906
    ieism
    298 Posts

    I dont think PLUM has that anymore. I finally get to test them this season, I’ll be sure check how far they lean back. This may take a while, they dont have snow around their HQ yet.

    http://flatlandsplitfest.com/

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