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    Hi. So I’m working on 1st DIY board now, and I’ve planned on minimizing the number of t-nuts where possible so I got a pair of delrin pucks to help do that by using 2 factory inserts and 1 DIY t-nut per puck half. I also thought I’ve give it a go and try to make a 2 stance option for a bit of ‘powder setback’ by drilling 2 in-line holes in each puck half for each t-nut, so I could simply slot the pucks back 1 set of insets for a 2cm setback. Before I got my hands the delrin pucks to officially map out my screw holes and stance width, I started to wonder if I was going to be able to get my stance wide enough (I’ve ridden anywhere from a 23-25 inch stance the past few years).

    Sure enough, I can’t quite get it as wide as I’d like this board (23.5-34 inches or just over), and the inserts are maxed out so doing the setback option probably isn’t possible, but this is with planning on using 2 factory inserts that aren’t right next to each other (every other insert, so 4cm apart) and keeping the drill holes within the lower/recessed section of the delrin puck.

    My question(s) are

    1: How close to the edge of the of the puck can the screw holes safely go? I’ve seen some people’s custom pucks have their inserts just cross over that recess/ledge. Good idea or bad idea?

    2. Would using 2 factory inserts directly next to each other (2cm apart) be strong enough with the 3rd insert being a DIY t-nut?

    3. Would 2 attachment points be enough in total (per puck half), by using 1 factory insert and 1 DIY t-nut? there would be just as many contacts as the standard Voile DIY pucks, but would run more parallel to the binding footprint’s length as opposed to Voile.

    4. Is a wide washer (like a normal snowboard binding screw/washer combo) necessary? Or can I simply counterbore to get a trusshead m6 screw flush (with a top head very similar head size to the t-nuts voile supply)?

    Thanks again everyone for the advice.


    Have a look at these
    Kids board so no need to make any more holes, custom slider plate length and touring spacing

    Normal board so t-nuts are needed

    Had to make a new plate as the swallow got cut deeper after first ride. The reason for the offset holes

    Bullet proof, not my idea but worked anyway, over cautious buyer

    The extra holes with t-nuts works, the only problem is you can’t change the angles, only the setback and stance widths.
    Make sure the pucks are made to the tightest of tolerances!
    Good luck

    Adam West


    cool thanks for that . What I’m looking at doing is pretty much like the 2nd board down – the bottom left puck half (right heel side) is using 2 factory inserts directly next to each other and off center, and the tnut is bolted diagonally to the 2 inserts for stability.

    i’ve figured out I can just get my stance in on the pucks with a fixed stance(simple math error), but in order to get a setback option I need to have my back foot set up like the pucks in the second picture you supplied using 2 factory inserts right next to each other for both the heel and toe puck halves.


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