Hi. So I’m working on 1st DIY board now, and I’ve planned on minimizing the number of t-nuts where possible so I got a pair of delrin pucks to help do that by using 2 factory inserts and 1 DIY t-nut per puck half. I also thought I’ve give it a go and try to make a 2 stance option for a bit of ‘powder setback’ by drilling 2 in-line holes in each puck half for each t-nut, so I could simply slot the pucks back 1 set of insets for a 2cm setback. Before I got my hands the delrin pucks to officially map out my screw holes and stance width, I started to wonder if I was going to be able to get my stance wide enough (I’ve ridden anywhere from a 23-25 inch stance the past few years).

Sure enough, I can’t quite get it as wide as I’d like this board (23.5-34 inches or just over), and the inserts are maxed out so doing the setback option probably isn’t possible, but this is with planning on using 2 factory inserts that aren’t right next to each other (every other insert, so 4cm apart) and keeping the drill holes within the lower/recessed section of the delrin puck.

My question(s) are

1: How close to the edge of the of the puck can the screw holes safely go? I’ve seen some people’s custom pucks have their inserts just cross over that recess/ledge. Good idea or bad idea?

2. Would using 2 factory inserts directly next to each other (2cm apart) be strong enough with the 3rd insert being a DIY t-nut?

3. Would 2 attachment points be enough in total (per puck half), by using 1 factory insert and 1 DIY t-nut? there would be just as many contacts as the standard Voile DIY pucks, but would run more parallel to the binding footprint’s length as opposed to Voile.

4. Is a wide washer (like a normal snowboard binding screw/washer combo) necessary? Or can I simply counterbore to get a trusshead m6 screw flush (with a top head very similar head size to the t-nuts voile supply)?

Thanks again everyone for the advice.