Viewing 17 posts - 1 through 17 (of 17 total)
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  • #567807
    affix snow
    521 Posts

    Ive decided i need cants…and bad. Im headin out to Washinton State to do some Riding in June and wanna be prepared.

    I called VOILE and they siad they dont have anything in the attic, so to speak.

    Anyone have any suggestions on making them? Types of material to use? And i know im gonna need longer screws as well, so any suggestions on how long/what type/where to get……

    Oh, and if anyone has any cants they wanna get rid of…yeah, ill take em!

    Thanx for ANY help.

    #588643
    Jon Dahl
    384 Posts

    Use the search function, type in cants, and look for a thread from ’04 that has a post from Jogi in it. It shows his homemade cants and will give you a start point if you can picture in your mind what you need to do from there. Get a block of ultra high density plastic for material. If it’s a factory split, use the jig for the pucks to hold your pucks over the block to locate the holes in the block, and drill ’em out. Now go find a machinist that can machine your block on 2 axis, then cut them apart and enjoy. Clear as mud? Oh, btw, where you gonna be out here?

    #588644
    Jogi
    158 Posts

    hey affix! jon is right! 😀
    the thread has the subject “Cants”. there you find pics.

    #588645
    ttriche
    116 Posts

    Here is a link to Jogi’s topic with the pictures.

    Personally I am very lazy and simply purchased a pair of canting strips from Tognar Toolworks… we’ll see if mine work as well as Jogi’s.

    #588646
    Jon Dahl
    384 Posts

    Oops, I’d forgotten all about them! That may be the way to simplify things if you don’t need too much.

    #588647
    affix snow
    521 Posts

    Thanx guys. I did use th search and saw Jogi’s, but was curious if anyone had anything else to offer.

    I Did like the Tognar idea though!!!!
    http://www.tognar.com/binding_tools_boot_canting_glue_ski_snowboard.html

    So what “Degree” are people goih with? Its says 1degree = 1.5mm. They offer up to a 3 degree…..

    Sounds sweet. Less guessing on angles and i can get the longer screws….although part of me wants to do it myself for the challenge.

    Jon, my buddy, Nick B. on this site, moved down to Seattle. Im flying out June 14th for a week. We are gonna definately Hit Baker. Then we’ll take it from there…….

    #588648
    Jon Dahl
    384 Posts

    Tognars will work for you if you only want cant. If you need heel lift too, you will have to brew up your own. The one on my split (rear foot) has monster heel lift, over three degrees and about one and a half cant.

    #588649
    affix snow
    521 Posts

    @jon Dahl wrote:

    Tognars will work for you if you only want cant. If you need heel lift too, you will have to brew up your own. The one on my split (rear foot) has monster heel lift, over three degrees and about one and a half cant.

    Not to sound completely retarded, but HEEL LIFT?

    #588650
    Jon Dahl
    384 Posts

    Yes, as in lifting the rear of the boot up, as opposed to tipping the boot side to side to bring your knee in. Bomberonline has a good article on cant/lift in the tech articles, “cant and lift” thread.

    #588651
    jack
    323 Posts

    i couldnt figure out how to make cant plates in a mill. its easy to hold the part at one angle, but i couldnt figure out how to get it “canted” on two angles. any one have any ideas ❓

    #588652
    Jon Dahl
    384 Posts

    I did mine in my table saw! I did risk a finger doing it, and highly recommend against that method, but I was desperate to “get ‘er done”. You would need a two axis vise, and hold the block by the area that would be the thickest finished part. Much scratching of head and puzzled looking should get you there! PS Jack, won’t your mill at school have a vise like this, or a head that will work on two axis’ at the same time?

    #588653
    jack
    323 Posts

    we have an “a-axis” for all the mills, some of which tilt, but i dont think you could hold a thin piece of plastic on one of those. they aren’t vices, but 4-jaws. i could suface one on the cnc mill, but i would probably never get around to it, it would be a lot of work. sounds like the table saw worked though, right on. 😀

    #588654
    Jon Dahl
    384 Posts

    Jack, how about this? Find the center of one of the cants, the thicker one, drill a small hole in the middle of that area, and bolt it to the table. Then set up the mill to work around that area, and when finished, just drill that thick section out? No vise jaws to deal with, work bolted directly to the table. Might work.

    #588655
    mtnrider
    740 Posts

    @jack wrote:

    i couldnt figure out how to make cant plates in a mill. its easy to hold the part at one angle, but i couldnt figure out how to get it “canted” on two angles. any one have any ideas ❓

    You need a sine plate. There are different types, some just kick it up at one angle. We have one that can throw up 2 angles though, here @ work. They require math to figure out the proper angles…yick. sine cosine tan

    😆

    here is a pic:

    If you’re any good @ CAD you can just create the compound angles that way and scrub the top with a ball mill. That way you can hold it straight in a regular vise.

    #588656
    Sydnorque
    25 Posts

    Before anyone else risks a finger with the tablesaw method, use some (Anchor brand or other strong) double-stick tape and a long wood scrap to hold the shim. If you’re doing compound angle, a tapered board should work (back out of the cut once the blade is through the shim). Also, make sure you’re not going to drop a wedge-shaped cut-off between the blade and throat plate – you can make multiple passes.

    #588657
    affix snow
    521 Posts

    Due to time constraints and partial laziness, i just orderd a cant strip from Tognar and some longer screws.

    I got the 3 degree cant. See how that works. Thanx for the help.

    #588658
    Jon Dahl
    384 Posts

    Sydnorque, the real prob w/the table saw method is melting the thin edge of the shim, and that starts as the shim is coming out the other side of the blade. Will remember the tape thing though, as I don’t have access to a mill. Big thanks!

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