Forums DIY and Mods camber advice Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)Author Posts November 25, 2014 at 5:22 am #580373 souphousedave 2 PostsLooking to split a board and I’m looking for a beater on ebay. I’m in the Pacific Northwest so I am anticipating deep powder. Early rise traditional camber seems ideal, but I’m having a hard time finding one for cheap. So far, available options within my budget are High Society Empire, K2 Illusion, Salomon Drift Rocker. 1. If I get a rocker board for better flotation will it be effective with skinning? (I’m picturing the tip and tail flopping around a lot) 2. Recommendations for stiffness index? – how much am I going to lose once it’s split?Thanks!Dave November 25, 2014 at 6:27 am #678507 Splitinbend 243 PostsTry geartrade.com and one thing to consider for PNW pow and camber is snow density. I would recommend cutting a swallow in it too if your dead set on camber. Although I have a hybrid camber 164 and it’s fine but my traditional camber split is now a custom swallow. Your going to loose a little but but not that much and there are plenty of factory splits with full rocker. It will be fine.What size board are you looking for? I’m holding on to an older lib tech mullet I’d consider selling.Also for your first split, I’d consider using the prowder kit to avoid having to drill t-nuts. viewtopic.php?f=16&t=17344 November 25, 2014 at 6:32 am #678508 ieism 298 Posts1. No flopping. Lots of people ride full rockered boards and skin with no problem. All things being equal (skins, weight) I have the same traction as my buddy with a cambered board. I ride a Furberg. 2. A handfull, it depends on the board and build. On a 1 to 10 scale, about 2.3. (didn’t ask, but here it is anyway) Ride the board a few times in deep stuff before you split it, just so you know your stance. It’s less work to only drill the inserts for a fixed stance than a full insert pattern. 24 vs 8 inserts.http://flatlandsplitfest.com/ November 26, 2014 at 4:42 am #678509 souphousedave 2 PostsOK, good advice. Yes, I have been looking at the Prowder system. I like fewer holes and it looks like a more solid setup.I’m a carpenter and have access to a basic wood shop. I am planning to use hacksaw, table saw with a jig to split. Thought about milling a touring bracket from sheet metal if I can’t find one cheap. Might have to dish out for the climbing heels. Eventually I’d like to install inside edges with a router and oscillating tool.>What size board are you looking for? I’m holding on to an older lib tech mullet I’d consider selling. Looking for 155-160. November 26, 2014 at 4:23 pm #678510 Zude 367 PostsI’ve got an empire that I’m splitting this season. It’s traditional camber with a big nose (no rocker). The empire is stiff, I noticed my Rossi experience folding sometimes,with its super soft nose (the Rossi is diy). I do think that you will have an advantage skining with camber especially in the spring season with early morning ice and crust (that’s been my experience with camber). High society did make some of their empires with early rise, not sure which years, I think mine is 2011? With a decently stiff board you really can’t go wrong. Worst case you’ll have a rock board to thrash at low tide.PS use I used helicoils at the top of the touring bracket and for the heel risers. With prowder kit you need only 4 t-nuts total at the touring brackets(this makes for a clean base). December 3, 2014 at 4:01 am #678511 Chair2BoardSports 62 Posts @souphousedave wrote: 1. If I get a rocker board for better flotation will it be effective with skinning? (I’m picturing the tip and tail flopping around a lot) 2. Recommendations for stiffness index? – how much am I going to lose once it’s split?1. Yes it will be effective skinning. One consideration we always use is if you plan to tour year round, or if you are just after the fresh pow. Fully rockered splits on icy and super hard packed skin tracks do not have the grip of a cambered split, there is simply not the same amount of actual skin contact with the ground. With that said, you can always just use high traction skins (we use and recommend Voile’s) and carry a set of split crampons when you do travel on icy or harder packed days. I personally use a fully rockered split and very much love it!2. As much as some may debate, the loss in tip to tail stiffness is marginal and not super noticeable if the the board is built well. The torsional stiffness is most effected, but in my opinion, is fairly minimal as well. We always suggest picking the board that YOU want to ride in pow all the time. The worst thing in the world is to spend the time splitting a junk board you bought for cheap, and then going for the first tour and hating how the board rides because its not a board you would normally ride. If you like softer boards, use one, it will work great!A few other considerations on boards: -Try not to buy a board that is more than a couple seasons old. The cores deteriorate after only a few season, splitting a 10 year old board will definitely impact how well the end product will come out -Don’t buy a board you would not spend an entire season on. As said above, you don’t want to do all that work and have a bad ride down! We have found that people who split boards just because they were cheap almost always end up buying a newer board and building a second one shortly after the first. -With the above statement, if it is your first, it probably wont come out as nice as you want. If you can, split a board for practice that you get for free or SUPER cheap first, the only thing you will not be able to re-use is the t-nutsGood luck on the decision and happy splitting!! Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)You must be logged in to reply to this topic.