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    Post your reviews and experiences with Burton Splitboards here.


    I have not been impressed! The hardware is too complex, the board too heavy, and the binding choices limited. Too much potential for field failure. Burton has made such great products in the past it is hard for me to understand how they goofed so bad. Oh, I just figured it out – all their riders used helicopters to get to the ridge and then skinned 50yds to the chute entry! πŸ˜‰


    I only handled one in the store, but I must say I actually was impressed. I know it’s over-engineered but I couldn’t help being seduced by the mechanical aesthetics. It seemed a bit heavy (probably my number one complaint), and all those complicated moving parts made me wary. Looks like a nice ride though, hope I get to try one out soon.


    one of my buddies is riding a burton split. he had all sorts of trouble with the moving parts freezing up and generally being difficult to put together. he put a coating of canola oil on all the parts and says that it works like a charm. plus his dog can now lick the board.


    I had a burton split until last year. The board rides great, no complaints there. However I had all kind of problems with the split kit. As bdub says, first it was difficult to fix the interface properly for riding mode, which got better after oiling over and over, but still I had to make sure to really remove all traces of snow before fixing, which can be quite difficult, especially when the snow and the fingers are frozen. Then I managed twice to tear off the interface while riding, which I think is not so nice. The last thing is that I lost some small parts on tour, which of course I found never again. Luckily we were always able to fix it somehow. So overall I think the burton system is a good idea, but not working so well in real life conditions.


    I have a Burton split & every time I get to the top & go from split to board I find myself wishing I had the voile hardware. It is just too cumbersome and must be cleaned thoroughly of ice & snow to work(not great fun when its blowing 30mph & all your friends are already locked & loaded & headed down.
    Bought the board because I got a great deal on it as its not a popular thing where I live & the shop had been hanging onto it for a couple of years.
    To Burton’s credit though – initially there were some hardware problems that they really were great about taking care of(not the shop where I bought it) so their customer service is great for a big corp.
    There is a spray-on teflon thats supposed to really help with the mechanics of linking the board.


    I have first used my new Burton Split on one of the last weekends. Snow has to be removed quite thoroughly. But i had no problems with that using that piece of plastic that is delivered with the board. I could change the board from Split to Riding Mode with my thick gloves on except putting together the skins. We had strong winds and temperatures under 0ΓƒΖ’Γ’β‚¬Ε‘Γƒβ€šΓ‚Β° Celsius and i managed it without getting my hands cold.
    I think, it may a take a moment longer than with the Voile Hardware. But when I’m out in the Powder, this minute doesn’t really matter. πŸ˜€


    Here’s an odd idea – I’m wondering if anyone’s tried? Are there any problems or has anyone tried remounting a Burton split with the Voile hardware? Since there are a variety of holes drilled for the Burton Hardware I was afraid – if tried – that the holes needed for Voile might end up in awkward spots in proximity to the existing holes?


    @lewmt wrote:

    has anyone tried remounting a Burton split with the Voile hardware?

    Why would you wanna do that?


    I have been on a Burton custom 165 for two seasons now, and I have to say that I am overall pleased. I don’t think the Burton interface deserves all of the bad press it has gotten. I agree with the majority of the complaints, but I think they are over-exaggerated and can be easily fixed. Let me address each problem.

    Nose and tail clips falling off: They can work loose over time, if you don’t pay attention. Just make sure you check them before you go out each day. This takes 10 seconds out of your day. If the clip spins without much friction, it needs to be tightened. In my two seasons, I’ve had to do this twice and haven’t lost one yet.

    Interface icing up: I learned that spraying down the interface with silicon spray (non oil-base) does the trick. In fact, now I spray the deck too. Just make sure you wipe off the excess, and avoid getting spray on the rubber donut thingy that keeps the lotus from rotating against the plate, or else the binding will rotate in ski mode. I usually wipe the donut with rubbing alcohol when I’m finished. This trick works so well that I only used that scraper thingy like 3 times ever. I honestly have virtually no problems with icing. Sure this takes some time, but I kind of like stroking my board at night with a beer. I’ll lube it up after about every 5 days out or when I wax it.

    Reliability: I’ll admit the interface is not simple. Voile does a much better job at the K.I.S.S. principal. There are a lot of things that can go wrong with the Burton, but luckily, I have only broken one little plastic lever thingy. And this didn’t even affect my day. Just be gentle with it and don’t force parts. This thing wasn’t made for a boy scout. Use common sense; if something is torqueing in a weird way, then it will probably break.

    Transition time: Anyone who says that the Burton takes more time to transition than a Voile, must be doing something wrong. Nine times out of ten I am faster than someone with a Voile, and occasionally I’m faster than tele-skiers. Dealing with the skins takes more time than the transition. Yesterday I took 5 runs and the board went through every transition like butta, and my tele friends never had to wait for me. The silicon spray is the key.

    Binding slop in ski mode: This is the one thing that I am unhappy with. The binding moves from side to side, making traversing, an already impossible task, more difficult. I think the newer models fixed this problem with a better locking mechanism. I have the older version without the pin receptors.

    Price: What can I say, the thing is frigging expensive. I got a smoking deal on mine. It is well worth what I paid for it, but is it worth $900+? I don’t know.

    Weight: It doesn’t weigh that much. In fact it weighs less than a pair of tele-skis. I can honestly say that I have never been bothered by the weight. The thing shouldn’t be on your back that much any way.

    The overall pros are: a solid board that feels like a normal snowboard. My Burton split does just as well in crud, corn, or crust as my normal boards. I think the interface is slick and efficient and capable of fast transitions. The skins hook to the nose and tail for a more bombproof connection. The Ying/Yang hooks near the front and rear seem more bombproof than the Voile’s. The Voile hooks look like they bend and get sloppy over time. The stance angle can quickly be changed.

    The overall cons are: The design is complex and requires a little more TLC and maintenance than Voile’s. The older models have way too much slop in ski mode at the bindings (this has supposedly been fixed in the newer models). It is expensive.

    Unlike most of the Burton-trashers, I am in no way affiliated with either company.


    Wow, you hit the nail on the head. I pretty much agree with every pro and con Bigboater stated. The board rides really well in all conditions, no sloppy ride on hardpack. I never sprayed the interface but will look into it, I’m not sure what the donut it is, could you elaborate. With my stance dialed I can transition over to board mode in 5 minutes depending on how cold/windy it is. I have noticed a bit of side-to-side rock on the binding pins in ski mode. I’m very happy with my Burton split 165. One con is the new skins are different so you can’t order new ones. I just reglued and other than being a pain in the ass I have REALLY sticky skins now. Hey Bigboater, do you ride soft/hard boots, bindings? Just curious.


    By donut thingy I’m talking about that the area were the lotus (the thing that fites into the female version on the board and keeps the binding from rotating in board mode) is pulled against the bottom of the plate. This is also the piece that the bindings screw into. The only thing keeping the lotus and the binding from rotating in ski mode is the friction generated by torqueing the binding screws down. On my interface there is a thin rubber donut on the underside of the plate that helps to increse friction. When I’ve gotten lube on this in the past, the binding has rotated on me in ski mode under force. I hope that makes sence.

    I use soft boots and old bindings. I think they are Lamar strapins with a 4-hole configuration. I’m just using the same bindings I’ve had for 5 years – nothing special.


    Hey Bigboater,

    I hate my 1st gen burton split interface. BECAUSE the interface has NO rubber donut on the bottom, and no grip tape ring on the top. Mine is the SPLT66, the 1st year of it all. I sprayed mine with silicone and entered splitboard hell. Mine was all just metal on metal friction, silicone eliminated all the friction. Spinning binding=no fun in ski mode. Could you or (someone else out there) send me a pic of the top and bottom of your interface?

    I’ve been trying to find a post about the spinning issue, no one else seems to have it. My interface+silicone+kick turn= my foot and binding spinning 90deg. to the board ski. Shoooot.

    I’m trying to figure out what I need to do to improve reliability. Grip-tape on top, and some type of neoprene/rubber on the bottom sounds like the ticket.

    Has Burton ever warrantied/offered a fix kit for this 1st gen. interface?


    Mofoco – just drop Burton a line Their Customer Service is excellent in Europe (I know of one person having the original interface replaced for no charge) – maybe it’s the same in the US.



    this is the best what you can do .

    burton one of the best boards ( 166 red dubbel eagel )

    and volie splitkit…..

    last time i build this combination for a bc raider from austria , it s works
    nice all the time.

    burton .


    Well if you put in more than 10 days on the burton the double pin system (in split mode) starts to wear, and the result is tons of lateral movement. Movement that makes me cringe when i’m out in the BC, because the binding has popped out, and if it breaks…….
    I have dreamed about creating a hybrid, because i do like how the burton rides in board mode, So I want to keep the burton system in board mode, and use a pin system in split mode. I have had some pins turned up, because voile pins are 1/4″ and burton are slightly smaller in diameter, and the pin itself needs to be longer. But i have not assembled it yet (for several reasons), but i plan on doing so soon!


    Well, I have used this year’s S-series during the whole year, and apart from having to scape the snow off the board a bit when turning it to board mode, it worked like a charm. No lateral play at all. And throughout the season i’ve done approximately 20000 meters (altitude change) uphill in 16 outings. The burton rides exactly like a solid board… even better than most solid boards, and except for it being a tiny bit too heavy, it is pure pleasure on the way down on any type of conditions, even in the resort.
    I must point out one flaw though: the skins are way too narrow for the board. This makes it quite difficult to use in ski mode at first when going across a wide and steep and icy slope. But when you get used to it, you bend the ankle a little to make the skin touch the snow and you don’t even have to stick out the knives before the skiers do!


    I have a 04 Split-170.

    I find that the board rides really well. Its a solid ride and torsional stiffness is surprisginly good for a split. It even rides well out here on the east coast within the resorts, and we don’t see a lot of powder on the pistes so that’s saying a lot. It tracks well, and carves well even on icy east coast runs. I find it a very stable ride. But I would not call it nimble.

    I have experienced the snow buildup when going from skin to snowboard mode, but I attributed that to my newness to the concept of breaking it down and re-0assembling. I just assumed I was doing something wrong.

    The problem I find is that the length is too long. as soon as I leave the resort and hit the trees in VT or NY, its a real beast to turn in a pinch.

    In fact, saying all the above. I’d probably keep mine if it was 5-10 cm shorter… I just made a bad decision on length.


    I’ve got the Split ’66 (Red and Yellow) that I bought off eBay with Voile Tractor skins and cliker set-up. Used for 3 seasons, less than 20 tours, mostly up in Tahoe up Tallac, Rubicon, etc. I have never broken trail with these.

    Partial Cons:
    At 5’9″, 165-70, and Clicker Remote boots (don’t know their weight but kind of burly) and the normal things carried on a day-trip, my only problem is the length/weight. Even in step Rubicon, where the snow stays light due to the tree cover, I use the full extent of the supposedly wide Burton nose to keep from flipping over. Like surfing a long board on take off, you have to keep an eye out. I don’t have much on my back either. Not too bad, but I can’t really imagine an overnighter pack on my back.

    Yes, it takes me while to transition, but the tool they provide works great and if it’s sunny i just face them in the sun while eating, and it’s all clean. I haven’t done the silicon spray yet, but will watch out for the “rotating disk” problem while doing it this season.

    I did break the plastic attachments (the black ones) to the pry/lever bar that keeps the board oh so tight, but replaced with climbing string and waited for Dave’s in Tahoe City to get replacements. I could tuck the string under my boot and keep the lever bar and thus string outside while skinning just in case. Finally, the Burton rep gave Dave’s brand new plates (the whole non-board things except for the donut to keep the same binding position) and Dave’s (great board guys) saved the plates for 10 months until I picked them up. Now they have red ones (or is it the other way around???) that I baby, but not terribly. Always carry string.

    And you’re going in the backcountry, so always check your gear, connections, interfaces, wear (with a beer, ski bunny, etc. in hand). Non-checking gear creates bad habits anathema to self-rescue activities.

    I skin up, cautious of movements that would counter what looks like the soft set-up, but that brings me to my

    The board is NOT a chopped board, but a Custom starting point that is reinforced. The plate system that gets so much grief makes the board handle like a one piece, and stiff one at that, so while I don’t find too many tight dicey conditions on hard snow (i’m a fair weather guy and will learn Tele with my wife at the resorts if BC isn’t good; I’m cursed as I hate boarding at resorts now), I love the ride, and my AT friend (Julian W. if BCRider is reading), is always amazed at how fast I go through the trees, even while I feel in total control, turning at will even in thick cover.

    Bottom line: I don’t really feel that any split board is good for more than up and downs in one day, unless your overnight is either flat or up to get to a base camp. I feel that the companies should perfect the approach ski, or the collapsing skinner (put Zig-Zag approach ski in Google) would be better options safety wise and a lot of up down. You even eliminate the skin part of the transistion time. But if something gets weird condition-wise, I want the best board to get me down, rather than save time in transistion. I trust the Burton for that no prob.


    [insert picture of monkey getting back up on your back] πŸ˜€

    I find that for overnighters, the splitboard IS the best option. I hate putting my board on a full overnight pack with snowshoes. πŸ˜•

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