Forums Bindings burton C60 bindings.
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  • #568046
    dstle
    29 Posts

    I just got a pair of used C60’s at an REI sale for $60. Im way stoked. Im use to using a softer binding at the resort, like a Mission or Cartel. How does the C60 compare other than being lighter, and stiffer. What do they feel like? Im going to be using them for splitting. The high back already looks way used, the resin is chipping off.

    bc, you have experience on these dont you? [/b]

    #590340
    bcrider
    4149 Posts

    Hi dstle,

    Where do I know you from? The Burton site?

    There is some decent beta in this thread.
    http://talk.splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=1903

    Not a whole lot of new info to add. Overall, I’m really stoked with the C60s for splitting and my style of riding. I used K2 Clicker HBs before these so I was already used to a pretty stiff binding. For splitting, you don’t want the bindings to be too soft because it will work against you when skinning. The added stiffness may take a little getting used to on the descent but after a while you should be fine. Good luck and have fun!

    Ps. $60 is a great deal! 8)

    #590341
    ddegraaf
    50 Posts

    Oh man- sick bindings but there is a break in period where they break you! I remember my first day out in them and my calves were bruised DEEP becaus e of the stiff high back. After a week of healing, they were great and have ridiculous control. I’d suggest putting the ankle strap in the middle position to start w/ so you don’t have a super stiff set up the first time out. After that, move them up to the highest position and you’ll be ready to rock!

    #590342
    lonerider
    68 Posts

    @ddegraaf wrote:

    Oh man- sick bindings but there is a break in period where they break you! I remember my first day out in them and my calves were bruised DEEP becaus e of the stiff high back. After a week of healing, they were great and have ridiculous control. I’d suggest putting the ankle strap in the middle position to start w/ so you don’t have a super stiff set up the first time out. After that, move them up to the highest position and you’ll be ready to rock!

    Thought I’d also give an update on my Burton C60 bindings. They are wicked light (3.7 lbs… that might be less than one of my old Catek FR bindings), nice and stiff, but not too stiff (didn’t have any type of calf bruising). I do freeride and freestyle on them. Here is a photo sequence of me doing a small rock drop with Santa.

    For freestyle, they are a little stiff, but not terribly so. I do caveat that by saying that I’m riding size smalls, which have a lower highback and I’ve moved the straps to the lowest hole for more lateral flex.

    However, unfortunately, I broke them after about 5-6 days of riding. Took about two weeks, but Burton just told me they are mailing me a replacement (they apologized for the delay – the factory was closed for a week for inventory). I still like them though and so long as Burton keeps replacing my bindings – I’ll ride them (now I always keep a second pair nearby as a backup though). I would tradeoff some the lightness to have a stronger binding (I’m only 145 lbs so it’s not like I’m a big guy).

    This is the third pair of Burton bindings I’ve broken in the past 5 years.

    ’05 C60 (baseplate) – ridden 6 days, replaced by Burton after 3 weeks
    ’03 P1s (FLAD) – ridden 20 days, replaced by Burton after a week
    ’02 Missions (heelcup – no photo, but here’s a photo in it’s memory – rocket butter) – ridden 5 days, returned to store

    I should mention that from 99-02 (was about 100 days) I rode a pair of K2 HB Pros (CF highback) without any problems, and after the Mission broke I rode a pair of Salomon SP4 Shaped from ’02-04 (about 50 days) without problems. I also rode a pair of Catek Freerides, but sold them pretty quick because they were so heavy and harsh for me (the new FR2 are supposedly lighter and more damp, but also way pricey, nearly 3 times what I paid for them). I switched from the Cateks a pair Nidecker 800 Pros, which are really damp… still a little heavy – great freeride/all-mountain freestyle binding.

    #590343
    ride_pow
    116 Posts

    Aren’t all those bindings “plastic” (besides the catek)? I am currently trying to figure out what to set my split up with. If they are all indeed all “plastic” and you are breaking so many is there a reason you have stuck with “plastic”?

    #590344
    lonerider
    68 Posts

    I think you are naively assuming that all plastics are cheap and flimsy. If you re-read my post carefully… you will notice that only BURTON bindings were breaking on me. I rode a set of “PLASTIC” Salomon bindings without problem for nearly 100 days and the heavy duty stuff they use on Nideckers feels more like rubberized metal than plastic.

    Most bindings are mostly plastic – even with aluminum baseplates, the straps and highback are likely plastic. The major drawback of metal stuff is the heavy weight and the harsher ride (and they still can break).

    #590345
    ride_pow
    116 Posts

    No naiveté here. I used the term “plasticâ€Â

    #590346
    lonerider
    68 Posts
    ride_pow wrote:
    No naiveté here. I used the term “plasticâ€Â
    #590347
    bcrider
    4149 Posts

    lonerider,

    That is really odd that you’ve had so many breaks and you only weight 145….especially the FLAD breakage. How on earth did you break that from riding? Looks more like the highback was left locked into place and the chairlift smacked it. 😉

    The baseplate break at the toe-strap is also really odd. Again, I question whether it really happened from riding or was caused by some sort of other accident. It sure seems like the strap itself would fail before the baseplate.

    I could be completely wrong though, resort riding can be more hard on your gear than the bc depending on the rider. The butter’s look pretty extreme too and surely apply a lot of force to the board/bindings.

    I have last year’s C60s that have over 50 days on them (99% all bc) and the only issue I’ve had was broken toe strap. I’m unsure if it happed while ridding or transportation.

    Looking at my bindings…they’ve held up really well considering the application that they are used in.

    @ride_pow wrote:

    Aren’t all those bindings “plastic” (besides the catek)?

    Referring to those bindings as merely “plasticâ€Â

    #590348
    damian
    107 Posts

    >….especially the FLAD breakage. How on earth did you break that from riding?

    I simultaneously tore the FLAD off both bindings in one crash. Here’s how anyone can try it (not guaranteed to work all the time):

    1. go really fast on a hard icy surface
    2. catch a heel edge

    After about 10 minutes of holding my head and groaning I gathered myself together and noticed that both FLADS had been torn off my bindings. Others expressed amazement at the FLAD breakage.

    Strangely, this is all I have ever broken on a binding. I think I am blessed with good luck, cause they always seem to be breaking all around me, especially Burton bindings.

    (I use 04/05 C60’s)

    EDIT TO ADD:

    Base plates some times break at the toe strap attach point. One of my board surfaces has indentations from the front toe corner of the base getting jammed into it, especially front foot binding. This happens if the disk is too flexible for the forward strain from inertia created in various situations in riding (and crashing). Its just a matter of time before the front toe corner of my binding base plate cracks in EXACTLY the same way as linked in loneriders post above. The mechanics of this failure make perfect sense to me.

    #590349
    SanFrantastico
    1514 Posts

    Hey Lonerider – I don’t suppose you could throw those Tomcats on your scale when you get a chance? I’m still interested in binding weights and I’m really interested in the Tomcats as Ride’s lightest aluminum binding. Those are from a few years ago, right?

    Putting the poo in swimming pool since 1968.

    #590350
    lonerider
    68 Posts

    @bcrider wrote:

    lonerider,
    That is really odd that you’ve had so many breaks and you only weight 145….especially the FLAD breakage. How on earth did you break that from riding? Looks more like the highback was left locked into place and the chairlift smacked it. 😉

    The baseplate break at the toe-strap is also really odd. Again, I question whether it really happened from riding or was caused by some sort of other accident. It sure seems like the strap itself would fail before the baseplate.

    I could be completely wrong though, resort riding can be more hard on your gear than the bc depending on the rider. The butter’s look pretty extreme too and surely apply a lot of force to the board/bindings.

    Oh, I didn’t mention it here (I usually do to preempt the thought) but the FLAD broke on my front binding (I ride regular). Not sure where it broke. For the baseplate toe-strap break, it happened during that really cold stretch over MLK so make that had something to do with it, it happened at the bottom of a run and I was trying to switch nollie into a regular nosepress and caught my nose in the snow (I actually had sliver of a delam on the nose topsheet – epoxied it). I didn’t realize my binding was broken except my friend waiting at the bottom noticed “something” came flying out of my crash and land near him – it was the piece of the baseplate that broke off.

    @bcrider wrote:

    I have last year’s C60s that have over 50 days on them (99% all bc) and the only issue I’ve had was broken toe strap. I’m unsure if it happed while ridding or transportation.

    Looking at my bindings…they’ve held up really well considering the application that they are used in.

    @ride_pow wrote:

    Aren’t all those bindings “plastic” (besides the catek)?

    Referring to those bindings as merely “plasticâ€Â

    #590351
    ride_pow
    116 Posts

    I wasn’t trying to stir anything up here. I was simply trying to figure out why lonerider chose to continue with these types of bindings after breaking so many. I am a bit biased. I have been on Rides since I started riding and have never broke more than a toe strap. Some have been on my board for over three years (~150 days).

    bcrider wrote:
    Referring to those bindings as merely “plasticâ€Â
    #590352
    bcrider
    4149 Posts

    Thanks for the added info lonerider! Those are some weird breaks!

    ride-pow, you weren’t stirring up anything. Discussion is good!

    #590353
    lonerider
    68 Posts

    @bcrider wrote:

    Thanks for the added info lonerider! Those are some weird breaks!

    Bent Metal Burnt Resin Size Small – 3.9 lbs for the pair (disk & screws)
    Ride Flight Tomcast Size M/L – 4.2 lbs for the pair (disk & screws) – for sale in classifieds!

    #590354
    SanFrantastico
    1514 Posts

    Thanks!

    Putting the poo in swimming pool since 1968.

    #590355
    damian
    107 Posts

    I took a really close look at the fit, to see if I had missed something. Because for me, the boot is rock solid in the binding, and I like the C60 (although, I am tired of an uncomfortable binding. I heard the 06/07 models are more comfy). I found two compatibility issues, and just hinted at one of them.

    1. The Malamute liner is pretty thin, no padding, no bulk. It gives me a good tight fit that stays firm. That gives the boot a lower volume and offers less cushioning on the rear of the calf muscle. The C60 highback is stiff carbon and it ends pretty bluntly, with no rubber flange (rude word) protruding from the top of the high back. This creates a pretty harsh edge running across my calf muscle below the top of the boot. This edge causes discomfort that I would rather not have.

    2. The front of the base plate is wider by about 10mm than the wide point of my boot toe area. Once strapped in, this does not cause any movement at all, its solid. But as I tighten the toe cap-strap it pulls my boot toe across the base plate, whist my heel stays in place. So if I set my rear binding at +7, I end up with a foot angle (not binding angle) which is only +1, perhaps zero. If I had a rear angle of -5, then after tightening the toe strap I would have perhaps -10 or more. Get the idea? So all this time in C60’s I thought I was riding +7 on the rear whilst in fact my foot was positioned in the binding at a much lower angle.

    So perhaps there is some truth in the claim that Malamutes and C60’s are not compatible?

    I have 05/06 Mutes and 05/06 C60’s. The ride performance is good so the worst case is that non-compatibility causes calf discomfort more than any performance issues (although that discomfort has led to me being less comfortable performing over a hard day). Just watch what angle you are really running. It may well be a bit different to your binding angle.

    I reckon I will hang out for the Spark Research Wonder Binding and then alternate between them and my hard boot rig on the split.

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