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  • November 4, 2012 at 5:25 pm #577523
    ieism
    Participant

    Bought a secondhand half finished T-Rice split that came with a Voile setup, but I really don’t like the system. Since this already had the holes for it, I coudn’t use the carbon fibre interface I made for my other board.
    I didn’t want to buy Sparks either, because the whole puck/slider thing is just a shitty system imo, so I’d rather wait untill the Edison comes out.

    But to get at least some fun out of the baord this year, I decided to start another project: crossbreed a female Burton Lexa Binding with the Voile sliderplates. 🙄

    The idea is simple this time, make a Spark type binding with parts and material I already have. I also want it to be about the same weight.

    – I started by opening a beer and sawing the baseplate out of my bindings. The cut-out is a few mm’s smaller than the sliderplate.

    -Then cored out the Voile plates as much as possible. Not only to save weight, but to bond them to the bindings later, more holes will be better.

    -I then heated the sliderplate on stove, and clamped the binding on it. Because the sides of the slidertrack are rounded, I wanted the oposite shape in the bindings so it would fit well.

    The next step will be to bond them together with some carbon fibre, and see if that hold up well.

    http://flatlandsplitfest.com/

    November 4, 2012 at 7:06 pm #661244
    saign
    Participant

    The only problem with this, and the welded base plate style like the rughty’s, is that when you heat the aluminum you are losing the temper, therefore softening the aluminum. These sliders are 6061 tempered to T-6
    which is reasonably hard. Take the temper out and they become pretty soft, and can bend leaving a sloppy connection to your slider plates.

    November 4, 2012 at 7:52 pm #661245
    ieism
    Participant

    Thanks. I didn’t know that, I’m not that familiar with aluminium.

    I’m not sure how hot I made it, about as hot as lasagna I would say for about 2 minutes, and I quenched it in cold water right away. 😆
    And I’ve only heated one of them, so i can compare both and see if there is a big difference in hardness.

    But wouldn’t it be possible to re-heat treat such a part?

    http://flatlandsplitfest.com/

    November 4, 2012 at 7:55 pm #661246
    b0ardski
    Participant

    looks good but I’d have serious doubts about the resins adhering to the aluminum under stress.

    November 4, 2012 at 8:07 pm #661247
    saign
    Participant

    yes they can be heat treated again http://www.mlevel3.com/BCIT/heat%20treat.htm

    As they are, they will still work, but will probably need a little hammer adjustment every few tours

    November 4, 2012 at 8:35 pm #661248
    ieism
    Participant

    @b0ardski wrote:

    looks good but I’d have serious doubts about the resins adhering to the aluminum under stress.

    That’s were the holes come in… Almost the whole track will basically be sandwiched between carbon fibre, a thin layer of uni carbon on the underside of the track will be laminated to a thicker layer on top. Were the holes are these will meet and form a very strong bond.
    The top layer will also keep the plastic sides together as the baseplate did before.

    Thanks for the heat treating advice, will see how that works out.

    http://flatlandsplitfest.com/

    November 5, 2012 at 9:11 pm #661249
    rughty
    Participant

    @saign wrote:

    The only problem with this, and the welded base plate style like the rughty’s, is that when you heat the aluminum you are losing the temper, therefore softening the aluminum. These sliders are 6061 tempered to T-6
    which is reasonably hard. Take the temper out and they become pretty soft, and can bend leaving a sloppy connection to your slider plates.

    Actually, I had some metalurgy tests done and found the Voile sliders to be made from 5000 series aluminum which are softer than the 6061 sliders I use in my conversions and Triads. I have considered the loss of temper on sidewalls and find there is no significant loss of strength or weakeness created with welding conversion sidewalls or manufactured triad sidewalls. I added high quality filler material on both the top and bottom sides of the weld to more than compensate for any softening of the metal and create the added stiffness and support you don’t get from a Voile slider.

    As far as a way to attach your slider to plastic base goes….Take a pic of the sidewall of your bases (from the side and from the top) so I can see how much material you are working with.

    The slider is only designed to come in contact with the pucks on 2 sides. The top and the pinch point (where it squeezes the lower half of the puck). Put you sliders on the pucks and notice there is a gap between the puck and slider plate on the top half of the puck. You could drill some holes in the sliders and use some tapered head screws from the slider track through and into the sidewall of the plastic base. I would venture to guess that 4-5 on each side would more than compensate and strength due to the bulky plastic base you have remaining (along with the formed sidewall you made with heating the slider track and added carbon fiber) and will be more than strong enough to keep those bindings in operation for at least a season, maybe 2.

    Definitely different than anything I have seen yet. Good luck!

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