Forums DIY and Mods Bottom finish on a DIY split board
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  • #567761
    2 Posts

    So I just finished splitting my old K2 Comet. Process went pretty smoothly, and I’m stoked to try it out this weekend.

    My question is: what finishing touches do you do to the bottom of the board? All the t-nuts and screws are relatively flush (or slightly countersunk), but I’m wondering if anyone p-texs over them, then waxes? Or just wax?

    Also, is there any danger in taking my board to a local shop for tuning? I’m curious because it seems like the board heats up a bunch when they wax it, stomp pads were always falling off afterwards. Is there anything you have to watch for or be careful of on a splitboard? I’d hate to screw it up.


    203 Posts

    I don’t think you will need a stomp pad on your splity… 😀

    I have heard of folks p texing and waxing over the hardware. I would be carfull w/ just wax as I think It would just pull the plug of wax out w/ the 1st skin removial.

    I left mine bare, wide open but may tinker w/ them in the off season.

    best of luck.

    Jon Dahl
    384 Posts

    On my latest project, I t-nutted my pucks and then p-texed all the holes for them, and the touring brackets also. A lot of extra work. Last one i did, i just epoxied all the holes for the pivots to seal ’em up to stop moisture from seeping into the core. In both cases I had the base sanded afterwards, seems they can’t do a grind ’cause of all the hardware sticking up. And I use plain parrafin wax on mine, I’ve had problems with fancy wax and skins not sticking.

    2 Posts

    Thanks. I think I’ll squirt epoxy around the t-nuts after this weekend. It seems like p-tex would eventually pop out of those spaces with some board flex.

    Interesting that you t-nutted the pucks. I think next time I would do the same — seems kind of silly to t-nut half the hardware, but not the other half. And I do notice that I have small high points where the screws are, maybe they were a smidge too long. Nothing I’m going to really worry about, though.

    And yeah, I’m over the stomp pads. I’m sure I’ll biff it one day on my whole board, getting off of a lift, but until then…it’s bare and beautiful!

    5 Posts

    I countersunk the t-nuts and then used epoxy to fill the void. I thought about t-nuts for the pucks, I’m not sure how strong the wood screws and epoxy will be over time. Anyone rip them out yet? I’ll put mine to the test and let you all know how it goes.

    Jon Dahl
    384 Posts

    The very reason I t-nutted the pucks was from ripping ’em out. Current board is a lightweight wood core and they do not take much abuse, and i crashed avoiding a skier on the maiden run inbounds. I had to save it ’cause it skinned so well. I don’t know how well the base repair material will hold, so far so good.

    56 Posts

    I sunk the tnuts and had the shop ptex the holes, then grind. The extra depth on the tnuts weakened the core, and the split halves both cracked from the tnut screw to inner cut edge while skinning in some rough terrain.
    The board rode and climbed great, so much faster with the holes ptexd and freshly ground than my old DIY split, but the cracks blew out this spring, still the ptex plugs never popped out.

    BTW the board was a light wood core Palmer (biglight/burn se) and I added taper to the shape plus I weigh 220…and yes, I have ripped the un-t-nutted pucks off both my DIY splits. (both times it started on the front puck, inner edge, toeside…maybe i oughta tnut those two…)

    Final analysis:
    Ptexed tnut holes are faster, but countersinking further weakens your core, which is vulnerable when splitting (and fat 🙂 )

    570 Posts

    Has anyone ever attempted helicoils instead of T-nuts? That way you wouldn’t have exposed hardware in the base. I’d epoxy my helicoils in if I do it that way but I’m curious if anyone has had bad/good luck with helicoils?

    525 Posts

    Helicoils are primarily used for two things: creating a durable thread surface in a less durable material (aluminum galls easily, throw in a steel helicoil to keep it from getting messed up the second or third time you screw a bolt in…) or for repairing threads that are already screwed up (no pun intended)

    As I see it, using a helicoil might work out, but is probably going to be a major pain. If you were going to do it, you would probably want ultra-thin epoxy to soak through the core and really lock the helicoil in, but then you’ld have to go re-tap it. I’m also guessing that the core will probably already be impregnated with something, so no matter what kind of epoxy you use, it might not connect well to the core. The advantage of a T-nut is that it has good surface area and the little prongs to really sink in.

    But, this is all a guess… anyone have a busted old board that they want to try an experiment on? do a helicoil and a tnut and see which one rips out sooner?


    Jon Dahl
    384 Posts

    Heli-coil will never work in this application. Inserts are needed for the support the flange offers. And good luck trying to thread into wood, and then making a insert stay put in it.

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