Forums Splitboard Talk Forum Board halves alignment – how much vertical shift is normal?
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  • #579627
    4 Posts


    I’ve finally managed to get all the parts and assemble my first ever splitboard. It’s a 2012/13 Jones Solution 161 which comes by default with K clips. I’ve bought Spark Afterburners and Voile pucks and got everything together. However, I do have an issue and the problem probably lies with me and some poor assembly, or even – it might not be an issue? My lack of experience again drove me to ask you guys here for some advice.

    So the issue I’ve got is that I have around 1mm vertical shift/difference in the center of my board – between the two bindings. This happens when I put the bindings on the board. It is the same on both bindings – they basically push the toe side of the board down a bit creating that 1mm shift. So first thing I did was to just swap the pucks around – not sure to be honest if it made a difference, maybe 0.1-2mm. I was very careful to wipe the board of any dirt and particles that might get in the way when placing the pucks. I also cleaned all threads from glue/plastic bits. And… I still do have the shift. Before doing anything else I wanted to ask if this is normal(shouldn’t be as far as I understand)? What are my options? I’m guessing that if I remove the rubber bits from two of the pucks that might actually do the job, however, I prefer to refrain from doing this. Any ideas?

    Thanks in advance 🙂


    61 Posts

    I actually am having a similar problem after I swapped out my blazes for burners and changed my Z clips for the K clips on my Burton S series 162. I’ve had the board for years and there was never such a large gap near the nose, or at least something I noticed until I put on the Burners and changed the clips.

    I’m going to take another look when I get home tonight and see what might be causing it. SOME gap is normal but I dunno. Anyone else have issues like that with burners?

    225 Posts

    it seems like itd be a problem with the split and not the binders.. i have OG burners and have never experienced this. ive seen it, but when i put the board together, it seems to resolve the problem itself. i orginally thought you were talking about longitudinal shift, like the length of each ski when together.

    4 Posts

    In my case the board halves line up perfectly without the bindings. Since the bindings are made from a single piece of metal I find it hard to believe that they are the problem. The only thing I can think of at the moment are the pucks… but I might be wrong.

    721 Posts

    1st problem = Jones
    2nd problem = Perhaps they have base ground the halves separately and taken too much off one.

    Only option may be to grind down the other or take it back and get a another brand!


    Adam West

    61 Posts

    Found my issue was totally the K clips. I even switched them around and still got the same uneven separation at the tip. Might have to go back to the hooks unless I can find out how to fix. Didn’t have that problem with my spliff.

    758 Posts

    Try to “shim up” one side (the high side). Place thin nylon washers between the board and the puck so it will not bottom out and thus be lower than the other puck. This should create a more level surface between the two. I have done this with DIY’s to get a better fit.

    96 Posts

    I’m having the same problem and I can’t figure it out. With the bindings removed the base is flat as well as the top. It’s as if one side of the pucks is thicker than the other. Have you figured anything out yet?

    624 Posts

    Get some calipers to measure thickness well and figure out if it’s your board thickness or the pucks, try a voile slider plate to rule out if its the binding. It could be slop in the puck-binding interface allowing each split half to pull apart because one half might be stiffer than the other-seems unlikely with such a small movement.

    If its the board halves, I agree with firstlightand pedro, you just need to do some shimming under the pucks to set it straight. It would be interesting to take a good measurement of the thickness of each split half, I imagine the difference is exactly the amount one half sits higher when put together. Do shim it as it will slap you down on an icy exit trail when your legs are worn out after a long day.

    But remember Jones brags they are the first splitboard mfg. to make each board half as a separate ski. Which to me means they found a cheaper way to make them as independent skis from the start, not as a board first then cut and laminated. Sure seems the wrong way to go if they in fact don’t make a board core first. Each split should be made as one core, then split and laminated, especially if their tolerances aren’t up to snuff.

    “Unlike traditional splits designed around a solid board platform, then sliced down the middle, the Ultracraft is one of the first splitboards designed as individual split skis before being transformed into a solid board. ” LOL in other words, because we have quality control issues, the two halves of your board won’t be book matched in terms of stiffness, will probably not line up so well, and cores might be thicker on one half than the other-but we will be able to streamline production by not having to cut board cores in the middle. Obviously, this doesn’t matter too much for backcountry snow, but I’d want to downplay this approach to board construction, not try to sell it as an advantage.

    125 Posts

    If its 1mm out, by packing spacer under one set of pucks yes you can prob offset the puck and level the base, just be careful the screw length is still enough as this will take over one full turn of thread out and that is significant as most only go 3-4 full turns. Really 1mm is terrible!

    Personally I’d take the board back and ask for an equal thickness both halves, its not too much to expect…… that is pretty poor factory quality assurance.

    All my SPLITN2 splitboards I build as one with one solid core, and final finishing post pressing involves cutting down the middle between the 2 inside edges, both halves are exact same thickness, that really is the only reliable way of ensuring practically identical board halves.

    I’d hate to be slammed on the flat run home , totally agree with Scooby2!

    Richard Harcourt
    New Zealand Splitboard Equipment Specialist
    Spark R&D | Fitwell Backcountry / Freeride | SPLITN2 Custom Splitboards
    p: +64 3 3266585

    96 Posts

    I took my board apart and took measurements. Everything was dead on. Put it back together and problem solved. I must of had some stuff under my pucks. As far as I know Jones only makes the Ultracraft as two separate skis.

    92 Posts

    I’m having this same issue but I think it is because my slider plate is a little bent out of shape. The plates warped slightly when we welded them into some Ride bindings, so I had to do a bit of bending and tweaking to get the sliders to fit on the pucks. In doing this, the rails on the sliders aren’t completely straight and a slight hump from where I bent the rail out is pushing one of the boards down about .5mm lower than the other board in ride mode. I’m trying to tweak the rails on the sliders to get them as straight as possible but they are kind of awkward to work with now that they are welded into the binding. I’m thinking my best bet might be to shim the puck on the board that is sitting higher to force it down to level with the other. I will try this tonight and let you guys know if it works.

    Go that way really fast. If something gets in your way, turn.

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