Forums Boots Atomic Backlands with Phantom Link
Viewing 4 posts - 41 through 44 (of 44 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #862123
    Robert
    3 Posts

    Hey, thank you so much for the immediate advice. I forgot to check on an answer but, now, upon reading it, I remembered this little spanner, which I had forgotten about. But, long story short, even with the help of this tool and another set of hands, I was not able to counter the screw. The spanner just pops off as soon as I apply torque to the screw. I am gonna try and mess around a little more with but I am assuming it is the thread glue that is giving me troubles. Any pointers on this? I’ve picked up that heating the screw with a soldering iron can help, but then again I am worried about the plastic bushing. Well anyway, thank you very much again for the advice.

    #862153
    Uli
    1 Posts

    Robert, i had the same issues on removing the screws- i finally succeded by using a pipe wrench- it is tricky, but doable.
    No way did i manage with that little thing that came with the boots…

    #862256
    Robert
    3 Posts

    Robert, i had the same issues on removing the screws- i finally succeded by using a pipe wrench- it is tricky, but doable.
    No way did i manage with that little thing that came with the boots…

    velca wrote:

    Robert, I know what you mean and have been there myself. I actually removed Backland Cuffs a couple of days ago and even though I’ve been suceeding at it before, I almost gave up again due to slippage of the tool. The way I finally keep it from slipping is that I first get its “pin end” to block in the boot sole and then use needle nose pliers to firmly press on the hex part of the tool to keep it from slipping off the nut. When loosening the screw from the outside, I generally had more success by applying a quick strong rotational impulse rather then to slowly trying to screw it open applying more and more force. I also thought about applying some heat with a soldering iron but have not needed it (yet). I think one wouldn’t need to worry too much about melting the plastics as possibly existing screw locking component should show a reaction (if it does..) at temperatures well below the melting point of pebax/grilamid/pom as far as my limited knowledge goes..

    Hey both, thanks for the great advice. I don’t own a pipe wrench and shops are closed but I do have needle nose pliers and I’ll ask the better half if she would kindly agree to help me one last time 😉
    I am happy to find out that I was on the right track with a “quick strong rotational impulse “. I’ll try and bring it all together and will keep you posted. Thanks again for the great advice. Stay safe!

    #862772
    ejorddny
    17 Posts

    Just happened to be looking at the Pivot Buckle Mod kit on Phantom’s website and came across this:
    “We STRONGLY recommend getting Powerbuilt Zeon Metric Sockets… You can find them on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-Metric-Socket-Damaged-Rounded/dp/B00GT4JTJY/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=powerbuilt+zeon+metric+sockets&qid=1610842560&sr=8-3 , or likely at any auto parts store. The nut on the pivot point is extremely thin and very easy to strip with a standard 15mm socket, hence our recommendation. ”

Viewing 4 posts - 41 through 44 (of 44 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.