Over new year I met a french guy at Revelstoke resort who was demo’ing and renting Salomon boards with Plum Feyan prototypes several pairs (6), the bindings are definitely a work of art! Didn;t get to ride them but had a good play in the shop. I suspect big $$$ didn’t talk pricing with him I was just curious to see them.
Yup its working for me, you need to set RSS Aggregator to take feeds from each actual forum, such as “Boots” or “Splitboard Talk Forum” and you set update frequency to what ever you like, and whamo it sends you updates of all new activity!!!!! Funny this RSS and Atom system is a commonly used internet thingie thats been around for a couple of decades and useful for all forum users who are watching info from lots of forums but whom don’t always have time to filter through each one individually. Stoked I’ve always wondered if it was useful now I know it is!
Hey I am trialing RSS feed – really simple syndication , to get updates to my browser of new posts. This should enable me to see all new posts in almost real time (5 mins) and filter through the interesting ones. I’ll let you all know how I go. I use different browsers depending on the system I am using at home or work, so far trialing with Google Chrome and using an extension for Chrome called “The RSS Aggregator” and in seconds its setup and taking feeds out of SPLITBOARD.COM and SPLITBOARD.COM/TALK , I’m using this post as a test so will update it with my success or not! cheers, Rich
hey @ringdings_and_pepsi yeah all good mate you coming back here at all? Where are you now? I’m busy sorting my workshop for more board builds this year busy busy! cheers Rich
Nice work fellas, I wonder if the URL can just be tweaked so its not activity-2 but more like …./recent-posts or even just …./latest, its a bit clunky not that I’m complaining I love it this works a treat!!!!! well done you guys @HansGLudwig @Cbalke and of course @bcrider!!!
Maybe under the Forum menu on the main menu, put a “Latest activity” menu link there? Nice n easy!
my 2cents worth I prob should have posted under this topic …. this is more from a technical stand point why getting off the old phpbb platform makes sense to me, its debatable of course but this is probably some background into what lead Chris down this path…….
My password change kicked in after several attempts, pretty sure the last attempt worked after tweaks to my spam filtering too!
I like the new forum, mainly as I am a wordpress fan and I know the hassle of managing a website and forum with both WordPress and PHPBB which is a pain in the ass putting it mildly.
Well done Chris on completing the conversion and I’m sure with some tweaking here and there it will run great and everyone will be all the better for it.
I have one customer who re-used a pair of already well used Intuition Luxury Liners from his old boots into his new Fitwells. He’s a happy chappy but no surprises as the liners were already a good fit and I guess they would adjust/conform in time a little more hopefully to being in the new Fitwell shell too.
In your situation it maybe that the (I assume) correct fitting Fitwell boot you purchased with the original liner is the right fit, whereas squeezing your foot into an Intuition liner inside the same sized shell is just too much. In my own case going from the standard liner to the Intuition was similar and also I found it too stiff for me anyway, so I use the standard liner very happily. No question there is a lot more foam in an Intuition liner and I think you maybe be struggling. Maybe a lot more heat and more aggressive moulding process is necessary.
Hope you can work it out anyway but don’t be afraid of using the standard Fitwell liner.
My current setup is 1 x BD Exped 3 piece, 1 x BD Whippet (just a 2 piece so a bit annoying length) , and a real axe should things require that. Works for me.
Hey guys, so here is some perspective, out of all NZ customers only one is running Intuition liners in his Fitwells – because he had a pair in his old Deluxe boots he was retiring and they are well moulded to his foot. All the others are running the stock liner. I’m not mentioning sales numbers but I can say is that its a tiny percentage….. So although a small %age might choose to swap the liner and may have an absolute need to like BG has, like a lot of people do with a lot of boots on the market they may choose to spend more $$$ to customise their liner, most don’t need to nor bother. That said I am all for taking feedback to Fitwell on anything relating to the boot if its well justified. Any questions or ideas guys drop me a note and I’ll gladly take it to Fitwell for consideration. cheers Rich
Roof box goes a long way for me, just throw all your riding stuff up there then you don’t have it floating around your car in a mess at night when you’re trying to sleep in there.
+1 for big dual burner stove.
Yeah for the mobile splitting lifestyle it doesn’t get any better or easier than sleeping in your rig.
Re “big dual burner stove” just be careful cooking or trying to heat with gas in a confined space that you have heaps of ventilation, otherwise it can be a pretty nasty outcome if the CO gets you….. there have been plenty of cases where people have just nodded off when the CO gas got to them and nailed them…….. I’m really not sure if I would do that at all without all windows and doors open. I’d go with the warm sleeping bag !
You can definitely router in and epoxy edge in from the side in a fraction of the time and with no set up needed to press a base on correctly, but that is beside the point. Dave Sand is a craftsman there! That’s pretty good work to get a cut base to drop right in there. He should focus on resoling boards too. With the right tool developed I bet you could grind the old edge out and leave a perfect recess for the new base and edge pretty quick. Makes sense for a $800 to 1000 split or pair of skis, not so much sense for a 500-600 piece of gear. Or maybe forget replacing the whole base, just rout/grind out the battered, rounded over or compressed edges and re-press the edge with a cm or 2 of new base. If you could do that for $125 for a heel edge, that might make a new stream of business.
:twocents: no resin when tapping in the inserts? could cause rot from water. I presume you add a layer of fiberglass or carbon over where the old composite was cut for the inserts.
totally agree that’s pure craftwork! On the DIY’s I do I am finding the inside edge takes me roughly 2 hours to complete the job, but its broken down into smaller steps over a couple of sessions. I first route a 2x2mm rebate for the main edge and then cut a further deeper rebate (with an oscillating cutter and bimetal blade) in under the base about 8mm deep in under parallel to the base surface for the edge teeth/tangs to rebate into. I cut to length and glue the edge in with epoxy and a mix of West 403 cotton/silica fillers to toughen the resin which I smear this resin paste in a good coating but not too much over the edge tangs and also pre-wet out the slot in the board with some resin too. I push the edge home into the slot and clamp the edge in about a dozen spots with a nice heavy piece of pre-waxed (for release) ali angle that has a sharp 90degree inside corner. This keeps the edge straight and firmly flush with the base and sidewall while the epoxy cures. A couple of days later I pull it apart and finish it on the belt and tidy up the inside sidewall. The edge I usually run just past the Chinese hooks at each end of the board not right to the tips. This has stood up to the test so far and considering the investment in time makes sense to do it for the benefits of an inside edge far outweigh the small cost.
I suspect the inserts are epoxied in maybe the video making fun got ahead of the process a bit, be pretty sure to cause nightmares with spinning inserts and wet cores without it well anchored in with epoxy.
oh yeah I forgot to add the biggest challenge with finding a tool to make the edge rebate is keeping the heat generated under control, it can easily burn the timber and base and distort the base, high speed router bit is ok for the 2x2mm rebate as its air cooled nicely there but the deep grove you need a different tool as friction is not your friend there…….
US shoe size to Mondo conversion is supposed to to be an industry standard thing. It is a defined relationship. It is NOT supposed to be up to the manufacturer any more than a thermometer manufacturer gets to decide what the relationship between Celsius and Fahrenheit is.
This is my gripe with Fitwell. I wear 11.5 US men’s street shoe size. That should be 29.5 Mondo. Period. Fitwell defines US 11.5 as 300, or even 305 (depending on who at Fitwell you ask). This is totally insane.
I ordered my US street shoe size (11.5) and a Mondo 300 showed up. The boots fit extremely well, and I’m totally happy with the purchase. I did not size down for two reasons. 1) I will be hiking many miles in these and didn’t want to lose toenails or get blisters from cramped feet. 2) I have NEVER heard a Fitwell owner say, “jeeze, I wish I had bought smaller boots.” They ALL wish they had larger boots (if they are changing sizes).
From my experience, I’d say look at the Fitwell US to Mondo conversion table and pick the Mondo size that matches your US street shoe size. Be hesitant to size down unless you are used to tight boots.
Hi, just to clear up any ambiguity here is the best information I have from Fitwell as a dealer I have had this conversation directly with Fitwell for the puposes of ensuring there is as little chance as possible of a mis-fit sized boot for a customer. Its pretty simple…….
This is what I know of the Fitwell method of sizing their boot range incl the Backcountry and all other models……
• EUR size move to each size of 6 mm (42,43,44,45… without half size) • UK sizes move with half size of 4 mm (8 – 8,5 – 9 – 9,5 – 10…) • MONDOPOINT/CM sizes move in 5 mm (280 – 285 -290) • Fitwell take as base / start position, size 42 = 8 = 280 – so this is their reference point any everything goes up or down from there. From this point they do their best size conversion • It is almost impossible to have a perfect/absolute same size comparison and correlation accross all brands, all over the world any brand/factory put its sizes as their best effort to conform.
The table on the websites you are referring to is close as possible correlation for simplicity purposes and works generally well. But you can see as different sizing methods move in different increments then it is not linear so this is a best fit comparison between sizings.
I do agree not to downsize.
If anyone has any questions please post or pm me and I will endevour to find a solution for you. I do have plenty of stock of Backcountry also.
If its 1mm out, by packing spacer under one set of pucks yes you can prob offset the puck and level the base, just be careful the screw length is still enough as this will take over one full turn of thread out and that is significant as most only go 3-4 full turns. Really 1mm is terrible!
Personally I’d take the board back and ask for an equal thickness both halves, its not too much to expect…… that is pretty poor factory quality assurance.
All my SPLITN2 splitboards I build as one with one solid core, and final finishing post pressing involves cutting down the middle between the 2 inside edges, both halves are exact same thickness, that really is the only reliable way of ensuring practically identical board halves.
I’d hate to be slammed on the flat run home , totally agree with Scooby2!