skykilo

North Cascades beatdown, WAHOO!

The pathword ith:
DON’T FUCKIN’ FALL!

I skied the North Couloir with powder conditions, like so…

Because of the walls on both sides and steep north-facing aspect, it might not get enough sun to regularly turn to corn. Who knows? Sounds like you made the best of it.

I have similar theories about the couloir above the Ice Cliff.

Couloirs with powder in winter, faces with corn in…[Read more]

Way to get after it guys.

Too bad the North Couloir was too icy; that’s a sweet, sweet line. BUT it looks like you had it plenty good on the Southwest Face, which is another beauty I haven’t had the pleasure to ski yet myself.

If you’re still in the neighborhood and looking for fresh Cascade Pass peaches you should drop me a line. As always, I…[Read more]

Way to get after it man! That’s still a HUGE day, 10k and some altitude. Conditions are a bitch on that mountain.

You really do the nomad title justice, don’t you?

Shake shake shake, shake shake shake, shake you BOOTY!

That would have to be my drop-in song of choice, courtesy of KC et al.

I have an mp3 player with some old 2Live Crew, Eazy-E and Dr Dre on it.

Eazy-E goes especially well with raps for backups for raps:
“Gimme dat nut!”

It’s all good baby, you’re PHAT. Just spell it right. 8)

Zach, my point with that paragraph was that risk assessment is prerequisite to risk management. We’re arguing about something that isn’t a risk factor at all. But I think I’m gonna go for a walk now, then pump some iron.

Pump it, baby!

How many rings should I carry up a route like this (between the red dots)?

Or this?

That’s only 3,000′ of climbing…

TIA!

Indeed Paul, over-camming is safe for the body but very dangerous for the wallet.

It’s probably worthwhile talking along those lines just to see what kinda whacko responses ensue.

You’d have to be a serious jerk to go to the trouble of buying someone a tombstone just to put a smart-ass inscription on it.

I’ve never carried an Al ring and I don’t intend to start. I ski terrain where a fall would likely result in death, if not…[Read more]

Looks like a great trip!

I hate delegating tasks. I like to be on equal terms with my partners. Self-sufficiency and independence are important. I can’t stand babysitting.

Steve House got down the Rupal Face after putting up a new route on Nanga Parbat alpine style by, among other things, doing a shitload of v-thread raps. One-point anchors, zero webbing. Nothing…[Read more]

Spectra itself may be problematic, but seriously, get some tape (skinny webbing) at some very marginal cost per foot. Have a knife with you. When you go to rap, make a water knot and cut what remains.

But you can also save your tape by rapping off trees and v-threads without using any webbing at all. Ropes these days are very resilient. I…[Read more]

I guess I should be dead. Many times over.

I’ve rapped off naked trees, tape, webbing with water knot, whateva. Spectra does seem a bit on the spendy side. Carabiners would get expensive real quick.

Use whatever you want to rap. Most importantly, just be sure that your anchor won’t fail. That’s all that really matters. You might get some…[Read more]

I go with an ice ax or nothing at all these days. I like being deliberate about whether things are too hairy or not. I ski with my poles and if I get really concerned about losing it, the ice ax comes off the pack and a pole goes on it. A shaft plunged in firm snow provides a more secure self belay than a whippet ever could. Picks going into…[Read more]

There’s really nothing they can do unless it gets infected. It sounds like yours is very minor. Be careful with it and don’t do that again.

I got pretty bad frostbite in Feb 04.

It got infected a week later and I had to spend a night in the hospital.

They told me I’d likely loose a good portion of this finger.

But it totally healed. Now…[Read more]

I can’t believe you’re gonna nuke the snowboard bunnies I was sending your way before they even get a chance to get comfy and make some posts!

These are top-notch girls, Sandra, Judith and Vanessa. I met them at the parking lot at the end of a tour. They were all, “Ooh skykilo you’re so hot.” I hate to disappoint the ladies, but I had to tell…[Read more]

No dudes, we have the snow. Payback’s a bitch. It’s our turn.

ALL YOUR BASE ARE BELONG TO US.

Click HERE

Loved the rant!

They have these kick-ass pouches of olives with garlic at Trader Joe’s. I’ve been hooked ever since Phil brought those on a trip and shared.

I always like to have some kinda smoked fish. Yum.

Hummus and crackers go well together and are always easy to eat. Sometimes cheese too. Cheese + smoked trout on a cracker is a beautiful…[Read more]