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 Post subject: Re: rughty binders
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 4:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:18 pm
Posts: 591
Location: reno
Production is under way. Scheduled release date is Feb 22, 2012. :bananas: Meanwhile, I'll be working on the next generation Triads, light pins, crampons, and hard boot binding setup.

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 Post subject: Re: rughty binders
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 4:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2010 10:17 pm
Posts: 297
Location: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Congrats---nicely done!!!!

I am looking forward to the HB binding!


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 Post subject: Re: rughty binders
PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 5:20 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 19, 2011 3:17 am
Posts: 109
Location: Alba-Ecosse-Scotland!!
Superb news :headbang: :rock: :headbang: :rock:

Congratulations Ken!!

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 Post subject: Re: rughty binders
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 8:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:18 pm
Posts: 591
Location: reno
These are the prepainted version of the new Triads due to be completed this Monday. I will have a few of these baseplates set aside for conversions or anyone interested in getting a pair of HB bindings made up. This binding weighs in at 820 grams. Paint will add minimal weight and they will be white for minimal icing. Image

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 Post subject: Re: rughty binders
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 9:21 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2011 6:48 pm
Posts: 673
Location: Kodiak, AK
Nice. I need to get off my butt and drop my Ride LXs in the mail... :headbang:

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Jones Solution 163W
Venture Zephyr 164/260
Never Summer SL 163X
Burton Spliff 148
Voile Mojo RX 166
BD, G3, and Gecko skins
Sparks!


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 Post subject: Re: rughty binders
PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 10:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:18 pm
Posts: 591
Location: reno
Touring brackets and light pins are next and hardboot plate bindings soon after that.


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large baseplate (Triads are made in 3 sizes)
Image

Karakoram and Triad in the BC
Image

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 Post subject: Re: rughty binders
PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 10:14 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2012 9:20 am
Posts: 296
Location: a mile high COLORADO
those are sick!!!

ironically i just got kakorams and cant wait to test them out.. I LOVE LOVE LOVE ride bindings and your idea with those was great, I see these are basically moded kakoram frames and highbacks, product looks sick!!! how much are they? have any ready? im trying to get some friends interested..

side note- i have a pair of ride spi I cracked the frame on, any way you can revive them and make them work?

AMAZING beadwork on those welds.. - do you do car parts and intercooler tubing? show quality for sure! :shock:

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 Post subject: Re: rughty binders
PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 3:45 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2011 6:48 pm
Posts: 673
Location: Kodiak, AK
Finally got around to getting my wife's LXs done. Who likes stacked dimes? I like stacked dimes. Nice. :)

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Jones Solution 163W
Venture Zephyr 164/260
Never Summer SL 163X
Burton Spliff 148
Voile Mojo RX 166
BD, G3, and Gecko skins
Sparks!


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 Post subject: Re: rughty binders
PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 3:00 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 03, 2010 7:32 pm
Posts: 7
These look sick, and are making me reconsider dropping cash on sparks!

Does anyone know how the uphill performance of these binders compares to sparks?


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 Post subject: Re: rughty binders
PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 4:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:18 pm
Posts: 591
Location: reno
I am using these on the standard Voile touring bracket on one binding and on a prototype touring bracket of my own with the other. They work quite a bit better with the wider aluminum touring bracket than the stamped voile bracket and pin wear is a bit less. I will be offering my touring bracket in the next couple of months (hopefully sooner than later) and they will be a bit better on the wear and tear of my light pins which will also be coming down the line a bit sooner than the touring brackets. With the Voile stamped bracket, there will be a little bit of slop like a standard Voile slider would have. With the new touring bracket, light pin wear will be decreased and these will perform better than the spark touring bracket. Hope this helps.

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 Post subject: Re: rughty binders
PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 1:53 am 
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Brilliant work, I wish I could do something anywhere near as good!

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 Post subject: Re: rughty binders
PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:39 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2010 11:33 am
Posts: 184
Location: Auburn, CA
I rode a pair of blazes the other other day on rock hard snow with a decent pitch and I have to say it re-piqued my interest in these binders of yours. They were flexy enough that, at least for me, there was a real loss of control and I really didn't like it. The stiffer and larger straps on the burner would probably help, but even that's no longer the auto-purchase I thought it was going to be since after getting back on my ignitions I realized it's the snug fit of the side rails to my boots doing a chunk of the stabilization work.

Anyway, I'm gonna ride my ignition II's till they die (I bet they have one more season in them) but I'm starting to see where you're coming from with these guys.


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 Post subject: Re: rughty binders
PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 2:59 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 29, 2012 9:48 am
Posts: 220
Location: Sydney
I know I have made comment before and you brushed me, but when I see people carrying on about "stacked dimes" etc and the welds are far from great it gets under my skin. I am not here to flame you but to give you some tips that WILL make your welding better. I do admire you for having a go, tig welding is not easy.
So the things I see that could be improved, take them or leave them.
1. Stich welds are better than a long run, drill holes every 2" or so and weld up to the holes, one day this will prevent a failure, its smart engineering to assume the worst case scenario.
2. It looks like there is still some anodising on the outer sections, I see you have cleaned mechanically which does a decent job but a bath in caustic soda (oven cleaner) would help even further, it will actually eat in and remove the anodising completely.
3. Use more negative in your AC current, this will clean as you weld resulting in nice shiny welds without the black impurity that you are getting.
4. Ease up with the filler. You are jamming too much in and it is cooling too fast when it hits which gives the uneven look of each dime stack as you call it. A little less filler put in a little later than you are doing now will result in a much neater looking weld. I like to see what I call the "pac man" (definately not a technical term lol) before I dab the filler. It looks like a backwards C shape. The edges are melting and overtaking the middle, when you see this give it some filler, but dont jam it in, let the weld pool take what it wants from your rod. This will give you nice flat perfectly even beads and produce a much nicer looking weld.

Please dont take offence.


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