what do you mean powderjunkie about where I will be placing the tail clip?
I will be using the board for the alpine skiing portion of an adventure guiding program that I am currently taking in Gaspe... not yet sure exactly what the general snow conditions will be like I am hoping to hit as much powder as possible though
I will be attempting the split in a couple of days, still got a few things to get together before I start the process....
Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2004 12:37 pm Posts: 1850 Location: in between
I don't have experience with splitting or mounting kits.
But from seeing other split swallowtail and looking at this pic below,
it looks like your chinese hook and tail clip would be really close together. I have heard from DIY swallow splitters that you can sometimes get away without a tail clip.
Also, there may be an issue as to where you mount the touring brackets. Because the nose is sooo long, you may have to mount the brackets where the front binding/slider plate is. I guess you'd have to figure out the balance point for the board. Hopefully others will chime in with direct experience.
I'd be absolutely sure it will work before splitting such a beauty of a board.
Give the guys at winterstick a buzz. email@example.com or you can get their number from their site. I know for a fact that some of their riders have split-swallowtails and I've seen some pics last year. They should be able to give you some insight on splitting a swally and how their attempts worked out.
well the deed is done the board is now two and all hardware has been mounted...
a few issues here and there along the way but the board looks pretty good although I'm not convinced of the solidity of the front end as there is quite a gap between the front chinese hooks and the nose clip.... I may have to purchase another set of chinese hooks and mount it in there to make it sturdier. one of my issues was when I drilled my holes for the nose clip they ended up a little too far apart and I spent a good hour slowly carving and filing the clip down so that it would close anyways, what is done is done and i'm mostly pleased with the outcome. next time it will all go just a bit smoother.
all will be seen when I get a chance to test er out this season.
the board's width up front makes for an interesting pair of skis...
I will post photos etc once I get back to Gaspe, possibly early next week although I have three days of trekking to pack for when I arrive so it may have to wait until the following weekend. (I am in BC and am using my brother's dialup connection so posting photos etc here isn't realistic)
my final issue was the bolts for the climbing bar dealeo's were way way to short... like 1/4 inch too short. I ended up buying some 3/4 inch ones and while at it I decided to purchase extras and t-nuts for the puck mounts... I now have 8 t-nuts and bolts holding on the rear pucks and 6 t-nuts and bolts and 2 binding bolts (magically two holes lined up) on the front pucks.
more likely than not overkill but like I said what's done is done.... couldn't bring myself to use those wood screws..
what have people been using to fill in the gaps on the bottom side of the board where t-nuts are mounted? I am wondering if I should just fill em with wax or if I should epoxy them before hand...
---->> digdug -> when I purchased mine there was another one (although both have a different colour and graphic scheme than the one posted) if you are interested I can try to get back out to the shop and see if it is still around (the shop is an hour's drive from Gaspe and I don't have a vehicle so it will involve some barganing for a lift or the use of a car)...
Joined: Sat Aug 06, 2005 5:38 pm Posts: 18 Location: Arlington Massachusetts
In answer to your question about leveling out the T nut with the base of the DIY splitboard, I used black Bondo epoxy and sanded it flush with the base. I suppose wax would do it too, but that would gouge more easily. The important thing is to protect the wood core from infiltratons. Some of the Bondo in mine has chippped from the (east coast) rock shots, but it's held up fairly well.
my computer is in the shop (has been for a month already) so I am still as yet unable to post pics etc.... but i thought I would write in with some comments as to how the split went and how my first few trial runs have gone.
so the split went pretty decently, for my first time anyways.
when I cut into the tip with a split disc I was aiming at cutting through all of the metal edging to avoid blowing out the tip at the end of my circular saw cut... unforchunately I guess I didn`t quite line it up properly because I ended up blowing out one half of the tip edging anyways... I repaired this with some two part plumbers wet dry epoxy plastercine type stuff which is the same stuff that I ended up plugging the holes for the t-nuts with.
other than that the split went supper well.
now after spending two days skiing up the local mountain and boarding down and one day boarding full time using the t-bar lift my board looks like it has been through a full season of heavy use
chalk it up to my inexperience I guess but I have cut up the rear of the board with the edges of each ski while in class practicing snow plowing on ice with a large group of teli and alpine skiers... I have determined that the winterstick shape definitely is not an icy conditions board... while it works for some things the edges just don`t grab enough in ski mode for snow plowing or hockey stops and carving is a no no as well... in snowbaord mode it works well enough for basic carving but moguls etc. in ice is just asking for trouble and I have the bruses to prove it.
anyways, my repair on the tip blew out in the ice and nees to be newly repaired as well as I ended up chipping out sections of the top laminate on each tail, and somehow I ended up loosing 4 of my epoxy plugs... perhaps due to a combination of the cold temperatures and icy conditions.