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I have a couple other tricks that I do, if you want to get fancy. Ptex is a pain for sure, black is super easy because you don't have to worry about discoloring. If you can, get a gun, they are (.)(.). With clear its tricky to get it non oxydyzed. I usually keep the ptex close to the board to try and eliminate this, it doesn't always works. Running the iron over the base before and after to heat it up I find also helps the bonding process. With candle ptex though, you'll need to reapply a couple times throughout the year.

If your board is really just scraped up, non ptex filling, the thing I do is this. I don't recommend everyone does this, unless you are comfortable with it.

The first thing I do is take a electric hand sander with fine grit sand paper to my board almost once a year, sometimes multiple, depending on how many scrapes I have. It really is just for mostly cosmetics, as you get those little scrapes out of the bottom. I use a fine grit like 500-1000 grit switching it up to see how it affects the bottom. If its really messy I have used 100-200 grit sparingly. Don't go crazy, bc you can seriously mess up your base with rougher grit and force (you don't need indents). The fine grit really just buffs it out. I then use base cleaner, which really reveals anything that needs ptex repair. Then I do my ptex repairs, scraping, waxing and tune. I don't go crazy with edges, but most hand edge tuners do the trick out there. Most edge tuners have 88 and 90 degree angles. I can't think off the top of my head which is more agressive right now, but I use the less agressive on the contact points, and more agressive between the feet.

I've been doing my own boards for about 8 years now and those are the things I found best throughout that time. The only thing I pay for is base welds, because I don't have the gear for it, but I want to get one for sure, bc ptex and lighter usually sucks. Exactly.

Tex- the view through my reality tunnel is that hot waxing is a messy waste of time. My routine is clean the base, wipe on some liquid/paste wax and then use a rub-on wax before dropping in. Just carry a little piece of rub-on and you are good to go. I think the last time I hot waxed was 1993? The time/benefit just isn't there for hot waxing.

Has anyone mentioned de-tuning yet? You want to do that too.

I use the Toko powder for base repairs - seems to stay in better than candles for me. Plus I hate trying not to get carbon in the drip.
http://www.toko.ch/en/productDetail/411000880_v_9002/Repair+Powder+40g.html

You don't "need" to use a plastic scraper for the wax, a metal one works just as well - and in my opinion, better. You just need to be a little more careful in trailing the scraper and using the pressure to remove the wax w/o gouging the base. I can't stand using a plastic scraper, I ended up sharpening the edge of the plastic over and over because the edge would just get too dull to strip the excess wax off fast enough for my liking. After a few tunes, my metal scraper was the perfect dullness and I think works better

I'll second the P-Tex solder. It's definitely worth the ~$40.

+1 for Tognar. Their catalog will be handy when you're standing over the board with p-tex melting & trying to remember what people on the forum said.

1 thing I like to do when I'm p-texing is use the iron to warm & soften the edges of the base around the gouge as I melt p-tex in. Seems like it helps the new stuff adhere to the old base a little better....kinda.

I like powslashes advice on wax.

Is there any reason why we can't put a p-tex candle into a hot-glue gun?

I think folks have tried it with mixed results. Just need to make sure your glue gun has the horsepower to reach the required temp...I've heard most do not.

i like the clear ptex candles, the trick I find is start with a super clean base, don't let it drip, hold the candle in the "puddle", very close to the board, and constantly rotate the candle back and forth to keep the burning end as round as possible.

you only get the black carbon if you let it drip

I also prefer to scrape wax with a metal scraper and finish/polish with steel wool, I also leave my wax on for as long as possible (3-4 days) and it ends up pretty hard

i work as a ski tech and have done so for last 7 years.

the p-tex stick candles are not made more repairing gouges. they are for cosmetic repairs and are a super soft material. if it oxidizes its even softer with the air bubbles in it. if using p- tex sticks you want to drip it onto a metal scraper right above the damage and hold it real close to it until you have a blue flame. blue flame= no oxygen. then transfer the drip onto your board without getting yellow flame.

for deep scratches you want a p-tex gun, those candles are much stronger material. if you can get polyethylene (or hrp) that is the strongest material.

you need a few metal scarpers and files to keep them really sharp.

for core shots you must cut out all affected base and replace with a base patch. all you need is the base material and epoxy.

you wont be able to stone grind the board but you should be able to get by until you visit somewhere with a stone grinder.

you will also need edge guides and and some bastard mill files, and a metal brush to clean your files. use a 1 degree bevel on the base and a 89 degree on the side edge. use a gummy stone and diamond stones to detune.

get a true bar to figure how much edge material to remove. you dont want your board edge high.

you definatly want to wax as much as possible as it actually will make your base materiaal harder, meaning less damage.

you can do summer's gone trick with the sander, that is basically what half of a wintersteiger ski tuning machine is any way. you can even grind off your p-tex with it and it wont pull out as easily. it will take out all "structure" from the board so you will have suction problems if you dont wax regularly.

on edges
1 degree for base is ideal
make edge sharper by making angle more acute on side edge.
89 degrees is factory
88 degrees is race edge

detune on contact points. a sharp edge will remove your fingernail material if scraped along edge, a detuned edge will not.

you need lots of files to keep your scrapers sharp and brushes to keep your files clean.

you also have to brush the base with a scott brite pad after waxing to put structure in the base.

more structure=less suction

Tex,

In case you didn't catch this video, I've watched it several times. Definitely check it out.

http://www.kroniclemag.com/how-to-wax-your-snowboard/

Arch

If your splitboard needs sharp edges or a smooth base, you're doing it wrong!
It took me a couple seasons to get motivated enough to get all the skin glue off my board (result of drying my skins in a sunny window). I've hot waxed a couple times (since 2004), but mostly just use a rub-on wax or Not-Wax. Edges - nope. Funny, I used to work in a repair shop and tune my boards weekly. Now I don't touch them unless there is damage that may compromise the integrity of the board.
The best tuning tip I've got is repair techs like beer.