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Glad to see the interest for the boards!

About the discussion on the performance in the trees with the long turning radius. Ideal shape for deep powder is fully reversed sidecut and and full rocker profile (like the Libtech Banana Hammock). A board like this is very quick and easy to turn in powder. Turning radius is not needed in powder. But boards like this does not work at all when you hit hard snow or ice.

The rocker revolution started in 2002 with the Volant Spatula, a ski with inversed sidecut and full rocker. I was fantastic in powder but sucked on hard packed snow. Today almost all freeride skis have a combination of sidecut and taper. And rocker towards the nose and tail. A shape that is great for soft snow, but actually works well also on hard packed.

The snowboard industry was 10 years behind the skiing industry until recently...

//Daniel Furberg
furbergsnowboards.com
facebook.com/furbergsnowboards

Uh...you must mean the rocker re-revolution. Snowboards had rocker in the 80s, homie, but thanks for stopping by and good luck with Furberg. The boards look great.

Rocker is nothing new. But I believe that the combination of a center section with moderate turning radius and reversed turning radius (taper) towards the nose and tail is.

Glad to hear that you like the look of the boards!

//Daniel Furberg
furbergsnowboards.com
facebook.com/furbergsnowboards

I must say I agree with Daniel, his boards are definitely something which has not been offered before for snowboarders, and I must congratulate him on going forward and taking the risk of starting a company to make these designs available.
I have been looking for a board with this type of design for a few years now, but every company I suggested it to just continued to make the same old designs, or they added rocker to the same old shapes and called it something revolutionary. No one really wanted to take advantage of rocker, and combine it with a forward thinking shape to offer more stability, control, and turn type options for the rider. 8-10 m sidecut radii make no sense for advanced riders who know how to turn, just as experienced skiers do not use deep sidecut, or "parabolic" skis-those designs are for intermediates, making it easy for them to learn to carve at moderate speeds on groomed resort runs.
Thanks Daniel!

Ordered a 173 for delivery in the New Year. Very excited to have this board. It will be going under the knife right away, as I have no need for a solid backcountry board. I am going to be very careful to keep the weight down. No inside edge, carbon fiber sidewall addition, skis screws for old style DIY pucks, direct mount Dynafit toe pieces, Black Diamond split skins.
Lots of surface area, and an easy to ride board = more fun in the pow!

Awesome! Looking forward to the write-up.

Just had a 173 cut with water jet!!!
Will work on it next week.
Barrows what is with the carbon sidewall??
Sounds interesting...

I'm very keen to hear what you guys have to say about the Furberg splits you're making.

Yogi: I prefer boards on the stiffer side, and I figured cutting a solid board is going to soften the flex some. I think that covering the cut with uni carbon (longitudinally) should help stiffen things back up after the cut, and do a good job protecting the core. I have a bunch of uni carbon tape around that should work fine for this (from other projects).
How much stiffness did you lose on the 173 from cutting it?

That sounds like a very good idea in deed.
The flex rating of the board initially was about 7 tops.
Always hard to tell how much you loose until you put it back together so maybe a 6 now at best.
So i think the carbon will help this little dilemma.

Do you intend on epoxying/glueing the carbon straight to the cut sidewall or taking out some of the core and use thicker carbon inlay between the top sheet and base?
What about the repeated flex of skinning and riding with respect to the carbon staying attached?

The carbon I have is longitudinal fibers, bound together as a thin "tape" about 1" wide. Google "carbon tape" and anyone can find different varieties of this stuff, generally used for reinforcement when building boats or planes.
I do not plan to remove any material. Just set the cut board with the cut facing up and the top and bottom sheets masked off. Then spread an even layer of epoxy over the cut edge with a spreader. Then lay a single layer of the carbon tape along the edge longitudinally. And then wet out the carbon with epoxy. with good epoxy (WEST) and clean surfaces this should be just as durable as any wet layup snowboard construction. The carbon is thin, and will add very little difference to the width, not even enough to compensate for the difference lost in the cut.

This approach should protect the cut edge of the board very well, and bring back some of stiffness lost in cutting.

Great, a friend and i will do 3 boards and tell you how it goes!!
Furberg, Rossi and Arbor Abacus.
Thanks Barrows!!

Durability would be the question i have about the the carbon. But you can always repair with epoxy. I'm looking forward to the ride reports. If you had the money I'm sure Donek could make a split cheaper (than Furbergs) with similar ride characteristics as Furberg (even if you are basically copying his design).