Quiver killer/ Binding freedom inserts for a universal DIY

Monk151 · **Posted:** Thu Nov 03, 2011 8:41 am

that's good stuff scooby! very typical of you :wink:

for the touring bracket and climbing block - great. but do you think that is going to hold universal pucks? maybe the old 4 hole stationary pucks... but why use quiver killers for them?

Scooby2 · **Joined:** Wed Nov 30, 2005 3:32 pm **Posts:** 307

your exactly right Monk, only for climbing bracket and 4 hole pucks, I really doubt it for the two holes pucks or two hole adjustable pucks

maniacdave · **Posted:** Thu Nov 03, 2011 6:07 pm

How about alternating between Scooby's technique with the quiverkillers and t-nuts? That way each puck is held by at least one t-nut. Doesn't totally eliminate drilling through the board, but halves the number of big ass holes put in.

chrisNZ · **Joined:** Sun Aug 01, 2010 5:18 am **Posts:** 262

I t-nuted the last board from the top. No base holes. And nothing has riped out yet hasnt had 100days thou.

yogisnow · **Posted:** Fri Nov 04, 2011 4:13 am

Monk151 wrote:

I'm guessing you used them with the adjustable pucks (2 per puck)? Or stationary pucks?

Thought i would give it a go with the adjustable pucks with 2 per puck. Ah well.
Have just got some machined plates from Burton and will use the factory inserts and T nut where the QK's ripped out.
That will do the job.
Now to cut one of those new Furberg 173's in half and do the same.

yogisnow · **Posted:** Fri Nov 04, 2011 4:16 am

chrisNZ wrote:

I t-nuted the last board from the top. No base holes. And nothing has riped out yet hasnt had 100days thou.

What did you refill around the Tnuts with?

chrisNZ · **Joined:** Sun Aug 01, 2010 5:18 am **Posts:** 262

yogisnow wrote:

chrisNZ wrote:

I t-nuted the last board from the top. No base holes. And nothing has riped out yet hasnt had 100days thou.

What did you refill around the Tnuts with?

Splitinbend wrote:

Would you mind briefly walking through the process of how you did that? Im having a hard time picturing it in my head.

viewtopic.php?f=16&t=11132

1.Router a channel from the top, 3inserts = 4 inch long channel and 1in-1.5in wide (wider than you inserts/tnuts)
2.Make a block that fits into the channel you routed, i used a 4-5 layer ply 7mm thick
3. Drill and forstner holes for the inserts on the block

4. check that the blocks fit in mine were tight press/hammer fit to get them in
5. epoxy the block into the channel and clamp.
6. i then did a final finish epoxy coat with some pigment paste to colour match the board top sheet.

Things to check are:
inserts are sitting straight.
plug the insert holes to stop the epoxy getting in.
Leave a thin layer of the wood core on the bottom of the slot to help with the epoxy bond.

I built and tested a few samples before going through with this, and got really high pullout loads 500-800lb/insert but i cant guarantee anything.

Scooby2 · **Joined:** Wed Nov 30, 2005 3:32 pm **Posts:** 307

I think you are really on to something there Chris, I reckon its the amount of surface area bonded with the inserts that is allowing such a strong hold, you could glass (or maybe a little kevlar fabric) them in on the deck as well for added strength, but would have to keep the contact area flat. with a couple of layers of glass or kevlar fabric, there is no reason why the insert shouldn't be as strong as factory, the strength of the epoxy bonding the wood insert should be stronger than the wood core itself, and the composite over the top should be as strong as the original deck laminate if you use a heat cured toughened epoxy-probably not necessary.

But if you know your stance, might as well use your own machined pucks and the original inserts plus a few ski screws- at least if they weren't green :wink:

burton · **Posted:** Mon Nov 07, 2011 12:54 pm

i agrey with monk - it is a diferent what puks.

my mine is - for ajustibal (voile ) pucks - snoli inserts ore (german) einschlagmuttern this one from the DIY splitkit from Voile.

for stationerie pucks youse the orginal 4x4 hole patern - this is enough for light wight riders- for havy and harcore riders + 2 skispax each puck ....

this works - the last 5 years i build this concept.

burton

nearls · **Posted:** Mon Nov 07, 2011 4:56 pm

chrisNZ wrote:

I t-nuted the last board from the top. No base holes. And nothing has riped out yet hasnt had 100days thou.

Good idea chris! Sounds like it would save quite a bit of time on trying to make the base of the deck tip top after pumping it full of holes.

Powder_Rider · **Posted:** Thu Mar 15, 2012 7:24 pm

Bump!

Please comment on you long-term success or failures of using the Quiver killer/ Binding freedom inserts with the Voile 4-hole pucks.

I going to use Quiver Killer (QK) inserts and Voile 4-hole pucks on my Nitro Retro Swallowtail. This board is an old foam core with a metal plate under the binding mounts. It was good enough to hold Elfgin hard plate bindings with Helo-coils, so I am confident QKs will work.

Also, I am starting another DIY splitboard for my wife. A Venture 156 Euphoria, She's going to ride both soft and Hard boots, mostly HBs. So will the Quiver Killer inserts and Voile 4-hole pucks work reliable well for her and this board? Or should I go with the standard Voile T nuts and two hole puck.

Splitinbend · **Joined:** Thu Feb 24, 2011 1:31 am **Posts:** 110

Scooby2 wrote:

For permanent installs, If you are experimenting, try this on a few holes. drill the hole for your threaded insert or ski screw, tap it or not. I like to tap the hole thinking that it allows the epoxy to harden the wood where the screw pitch rests. Then take a 1/16 bit and starting about 1/8 inch into the hole, drill two 45 degree angled holes about 1/4 out from the hole for the screw or insert.
Then take some fiberglass or carbon fiber and cut a bunch up into 1/16" or smaller shards. Saturate a pile of these with good epoxy resin, then stuff this resin and fiber mix into the screw holes until it is packed and try to tuck some of it into the tiny holes that you drilled. Brush your screws with a wire brush for a good bonding surface.

The idea is to 1. harden up the soft wood where the screw holds on to the wood and 2. to bond the screw with a larger, strong and irregularly shaped chunk of epoxy and composite that wont rotate and wont pull out straight.

Drill out two additional holes in each of your touring brackets so you mount one with 5 screws instead of 3. Three screws are just not enough for a touring bracket, too much stomping when you are setting a trail in a crust. T-nut it if you are going to ski your split much.

Did you have to grind down the tip of the inserts to not go through the board or was there enough wood to fit the entire insert?

Scooby2 · **Joined:** Wed Nov 30, 2005 3:32 pm **Posts:** 307

I've only done ski screws that way, never installed the quiver killer type inserts. I do use a longer ski screw and file/dremel down the tip so it is all wide threads and no point left on the screw.

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