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just thought id throw up some pics of last years board project. i did a few things different on this one and so far it has held up well.
up for the slice was a 161 NS legacy. here it is on my tablesaw jig. DONT DO IT THIS WAY! i ve done this twice, and although acceptable, it just wasnt as tight as my first cut with the 18v cordless skill saw with the thin kerf blade.


after the cut


i was disappointed to see these big voids in the Never Summer core. should i have made a warranty claim?




i did adjustable puck insert pattern on this one . thx to keffler? and firstlight for putting up the printable template. pic depicts using an M6 bolt to tap the tnut with epoxy on it firmly into the hole.


method i used was - tape on paper template to topsheet. centerpunch thru template. drill press 1/8 pilot holes thru top. flip over, and use 9/16 forstner bit to hog out t nut allowance. flip over again, and use 1/4 ? drill bit to allow for neck of t nut to come thru to topsheet.

these t nuts are actually M6 auveco brand "extruded u nuts" that i have at work. i ground off the extra bits and rounded them. this is how i got away with only using a 9/16 forstner bit.


i went whole hog on the hardboot train last year, so i had to put some dynafit toepieces on. i mounted these with EZ-LOK 1/4 - 20 threaded inserts. i used the 2 fin ones that are 3/8 deep overall, and i ended up having to put them to the belt sander to shorten them up a bit to keep them from bubbling the base. i used a 5/16 forstner bit to drill the holes from the topsheet side - no base repair needed. i think my pivot point is 3/8 in front of the balance point - my memory is fuzzy on that, but i know i went with more than "just a hair" like i did last time.


ez loks installed for the heel riser


sealing up the tnut holes i used the nearls technique. PL premium brand adhesive with a sheet of parchment paper , then clamped hard and left overnight. a fresh wax is also a good idea to keep that stuff from sticking to the base. The PL tends to set with some bubbles in it, so a second application may be necessary, but the stuff has tenacious grip and doesnt crack at all. i left these M6 bolts threaded in to keep my threads clean.


to seal the inside edge i went with burtons simple method of a light sanding and melting hox wax into the exposed wood.

the finished product


i also made myself some aluminum 5 degree cants for my mtn plates - these will be replaced with uhmw very soon. but i did love how the 5 degree cant rode last season. i had to go to home depot to get short metric bolts for one side, and longer for the other.

Nice work, I'll be trying the ez nut method on the heel riser next one I do!

Just curious, whats the advantage to sealing your edge with hot wax vs oil based varathane? Won't the wax dry out over time?

Nice looking board! Looks like the ez loc is made of brass? I've used Quiver Killers with great success in Telemark skis (going in my heel and touring bracket on the next split) and their made of stainless steel! Check them out: http://quiverkiller.com/

mountainbikeak
They need to make the quiver killers in M6.
This would be the perfect insert for DIY.
Tried to get them to do this but had to order 10000 pc.
If you can do it with m5 then go for it.

Cheers

Very nicely done. so how you finding the ride with hardboots? The 5 egree cant making it more natural/ centered on the board?

no real advantage, its just easy and if i think its getting dry i can spruce it up while i wax my board. most of my decisions on this board had some sort of easy / cheap influence :

ez loks - easy for lack of base patching and cheap thru a work account
M6 tnuts - a bit labour intensive, but free from work
wax finish - see above
aluminum cants - free material (now i have some free UHMW so those will be milled when i get some time )

ya the ez-loks are brass unfortunately, but i just went for it since theyre easily available to me.

vapor - ive never tried riding without them, but i loved the cants last season. standing on the board feels very natural compared to the pressure i felt on my knees during the carpet trials without them. this is of course from riding pretty low angles for hardboots. i rode my spirit 3's stock last year and the only thing i missed was the "micro balance adustments" that soft boots have at slower speeds. most of the time i locked my front foot in the first lean hole for turn initiation, and left my back foot in walk mode.

M6 would be nice, the bonus of the m5 is it's less intrusive but maybe not as strong? Time will tell!

nice job

how much wight is your canting ? i looks great - but havy.

Burton

burton

the cants are quite heavy. 140g each if i remember. my binding/cant/slider total is 665g. hopefully i can cut that to 560g with plastic cants. the aluminum cants were a quick fix because i knew i couldnt ride the spirit 3 boots without them.

@ libtec



i see you can milling - next step is: build the slider and the canting and the binding in one pice as aluminium. this is the light wight version.

markus

Guys

Burton is right, the can't needs to be on the puck so your feet are flat while skinning.
Let me know if anyone wants some canted pucks, I've got them in poly.
Cheers

dynafits, baby my bindings are in my bag while skinning. u are correct though, this would suck for anyone trying to skin with them.

burton -

thats an excellent idea, i think vapor may have just done that recently... i may try it this winter, but i am a very amateur machinist

edit: i bumped vapors thread up to the top, in the binding category.

I love 8" calipers. I have two sets as pictured. Why are quiver killers m5? Standard ski size? Did you flycut the plates on a mill with SINE plates? On the table saw try MDF vs plywood and did you use a thin table saw blade! Did you email he core pics to NS? That's cool you got excellent results with a portable 18v drill. Looks like some nice work! Thanks for sharing!

Edit: when using fasteners from a hardware store make sure they are of grade 5 for sae and grade 8.8 for metric. Most stuff there is grade 1.