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 Post subject: Factory inserts instead of t-nuts in DIY split
PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 10:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 11, 2010 12:44 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Talkeetna mountains, ak
Just curious if any of you have tried using inserts used in factory splits. Something like this: http://boardcrafter.com/component/page, ... /Itemid,1/

I wonder if they would spin out in the DIY, but I feel like they would be much less intrusive then t-nuts. What do you think?

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 Post subject: Re: Factory inserts instead of t-nuts in DIY split
PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 11:32 pm 
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Never heard of a t-nut spinning or failing. The 8mm hole is far more intrusive than the wee prongs on the tnut.


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 Post subject: Re: Factory inserts instead of t-nuts in DIY split
PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 12:53 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2008 6:51 am
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Location: Surfing or Splitboarding Downunder
mountainbikeak
Ive used them for a few but they are expensive to get your hands on them in Australia.
Would be far easier to use but like chrisNZ said they are a larger hole in you board.
There are pros and cons for everything

Cheers

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 Post subject: Re: Factory inserts instead of t-nuts in DIY split
PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 8:30 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 11, 2010 12:44 pm
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Location: Talkeetna mountains, ak
I might order a couple and see what they look like. 8 mil is pretty large but if you don't have to drill out the base as much (assuming the factory inserts are skinnier at the base) and you don't have the extra 3 or 4 prongs intruding, might not be a bad deal!

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 Post subject: Re: Factory inserts instead of t-nuts in DIY split
PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 9:08 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2008 7:51 pm
Posts: 221
Location: Park City
I think you're right - potential problems spinning out once you put a bit of torque on them. You might save a little base material (likely very little), but make up for it with a slightly larger hole in the topsheet. Unless you want to take the time to drill the hole for the barrel from the base to an exact depth short of the topsheet and maintain the minimum drill size in the topsheet for the M6 screw (or whichever size you choose). But you still have a wider, deeper hole to accommodate the larger barrel size through most/all of your board than you would with a typical DIY M6 tnut.

Like firstlight says - it's a compromise. My biggest concern would be long term (even short term) hold-up... to keep them from spinning out might take a special touch. A key might be proper fill in the circular base hole with a high strength epoxy (properly cured), giving the hexagon shape of the base of the tnut something to bite and slightly undersizing and epoxy coating the hole for the barrel, giving those teeth some grip.

Prongs on DIY tnuts are minimally intrusive and very effective in resisting spinout... you're definitely right in trying to minimize the bigger impact - the 3/4" holes in the base. Just ask Burton. :thumpsup:

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 Post subject: Re: Factory inserts instead of t-nuts in DIY split
PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 11:36 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 15, 2010 2:01 pm
Posts: 793
Location: Colorado
I have on a few occasions dremel'd off 2 of the 4 prongs on the t-nuts to prevent unnecessary "chew" of the board. these have been just as strong as the regular t-nuts. I have also built a board with p-tex covered t-nut insert that are used by ski shops (winterstieger I believe). They worked great for a DIY with adjustable pucks. You need the coordinating "special" drill bit to install them which ain't cheap! There is a thread about this. I t-nut and epoxy all mine, don't want a failure 2 mile in the BC!

Good luck! :thumpsup:

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 Post subject: Re: Factory inserts instead of t-nuts in DIY split
PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 4:53 am 
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2011 2:16 am
Posts: 105
Location: New Zealand
I just split a Never Summer Raptor and fitted a 3x2 matrix of proper inserts from CAMAX into the base for the pucks at each end plus the inserts for the climbing wires and touring pivots, yes its a bit of a challenge but very neat. I routed the base material very carefully freehand for the inserts 19mm "flange", just thru the base material to touch the glass layer, so not routed thru to timber then drilled a 10mm for the insert threaded shaft/barrel. Then using some very very tough Adhesive Technologies rubber toughened epoxy I glued in the inserts with a layer of 8oz cloth inbetween the insert and the board to really add some guts to it. These will never pull through or rotate, they are as tough as a factory insert if not better and the core wood has had minimal interference, and the only downside is they can be seen from the bottom as they end up dead flush with the base ie. no ptex cap. Personally the look is fine and its both very water/moisture proof and extremely strong. cheers, Rich

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 Post subject: Re: Factory inserts instead of t-nuts in DIY split
PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 8:07 am 
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Photos please...

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 Post subject: Re: Factory inserts instead of t-nuts in DIY split
PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 1:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2011 2:16 am
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Location: New Zealand
Check my Facebook "splitn2" page http://www.facebook.com/Splitn2 just uploaded some pics to help explain. This is not a fast process but makes a very strong job of it. cheers

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 Post subject: Re: Factory inserts instead of t-nuts in DIY split
PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2011 5:27 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 01, 2010 5:18 am
Posts: 299
I tnuted from the top :-) still hasnt broken (yet). And no holes in the base to maintain.
Just got a new Libtech do i cut it, getting kinda addictive.

Monk do you use rubber dampening strip? under your edge, i think im trying this next


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 Post subject: Re: Factory inserts instead of t-nuts in DIY split
PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2011 7:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 11, 2010 12:44 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Talkeetna mountains, ak
chrisNZ wrote:
I tnuted from the top :-) still hasnt broken (yet). And no holes in the base to maintain.
Just got a new Libtech do i cut it, getting kinda addictive.

Monk do you use rubber dampening strip? under your edge, i think im trying this next


T-nut from the top.... Explain this!

I ordered a few factory inserts to see what they look like in person, I can see these working pretty good, but having to drill and even larger hole the the 19/64 is pushing it. Has anyone tried using 5mm t-nuts (I couldn't find any), I would think these would be plenty strong! I think in the near future I would like to experiment with quiver killers, I've used them in a tele set up with great success, the biggest problem I can see is snowboard cores are thinner and I would have to grind the insert down a couple mm.

I've tried the dampening strip and it's a huge pain to work with, and not really sure how effective it is in touring mode but would like to think what Monk thinks as I know he advertises using it.

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 Post subject: Re: Factory inserts instead of t-nuts in DIY split
PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2011 10:25 pm 
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mountainbikeak wrote:
chrisNZ wrote:
I tnuted from the top :-) still hasnt broken (yet). And no holes in the base to maintain.
Just got a new Libtech do i cut it, getting kinda addictive.

Monk do you use rubber dampening strip? under your edge, i think im trying this next


T-nut from the top.... Explain this!

I ordered a few factory inserts to see what they look like in person, I can see these working pretty good, but having to drill and even larger hole the the 19/64 is pushing it. Has anyone tried using 5mm t-nuts (I couldn't find any), I would think these would be plenty strong! I think in the near future I would like to experiment with quiver killers, I've used them in a tele set up with great success, the biggest problem I can see is snowboard cores are thinner and I would have to grind the insert down a couple mm.

I've tried the dampening strip and it's a huge pain to work with, and not really sure how effective it is in touring mode but would like to think what Monk thinks as I know he advertises using it.



I got quiver killers to use for the touring inserts and heel raisers, they are still holding up. T-nutting from the top, routed channels replacing discarded wood with a block with inserts installed. All epoxied up. Im not sure how bomber it is, but i did it to a new board confident!
Image
leiw by GDSnowboards SD, on Flickr


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 Post subject: Re: Factory inserts instead of t-nuts in DIY split
PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2011 11:38 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2008 7:51 pm
Posts: 221
Location: Park City
tnutting from the top :)

I think it's a great idea. Looks sweet! Don't mess with the base if you don't have too. I've racked my brain with this issue... but the problems are that now you've cut out a sizeable length of core where you experience a great deal of stress (underfoot). And the tnuts are only as strong as the adhesive used to reinstall the block.... unless you secure them with some type of screw/fastener to the remainder of the board. Which could still possibly pull out. But if it holds up - that's awesome!

I've thought about (made one) a thin metal (titanium/aluminum) plate over the top of quiver killer/nutsert/ezlok type fasteners might strengthen the hold of the top down inserts - because they need it for use other than climbing block or supporting the touring bracket (IMHO). But the last thing I would want to do is raise the bindings off the board again.... that's why we have sparks :) Although it could be inlaid. And again, your dealing with the strength of the adhesive/fastener used to hold the metal plate.

dampening strips work well if you can work em - I found a GREAT compound that does the same thing :D

Love the ingenuity nz!!


this is a plate I made a little while back using the factory inserts to secure it and threading the hole in the plate instead of using inserts...

Image

then I would use a lighter, perhaps rubber pad to bring the rest of the board height (underfoot) up to the plate height. Like I say, it's just a shitty thing to bring the bindings off the board.

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