So ive been riding my Mojo Rx 161 all season, but when im riding hardpack i notice that there is a big gap in the board-seam. Do you have any tips for how i can tighten up my board and make the board-seam tighter?
Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2005 10:05 am Posts: 1522 Location: Colorado
I would bet that you are experiencing puck shift. The pucks will move and make the board fit sloppy. When adjusting puck position, make sure the board is tightly held together (considering gently clamping the chinese hooks during puck adjustment). Then make sure the puck positions encourage no gap in the center of the board, and make sure the puck mounting screws are tight-they will loosen over time.
Most splitties are going to have a gap but it shouldn't effect performance. I don't think sloppies the word your looking for especially since the Mojo's quite a bit stiffer than most boards. I got the chance to try out softer board with more flex, comparing the two they both have pro's and con's given the conditions but I walked away appreciating the stiffness of the Mojo Rx more mainly because I didn't like how the softer board skinned and felt that on hardpack it wouldn't perform as well. I'm suprised to hear this as your concern for the RX. I love the board for everything hardpack, I've found it hard to move edge to edge at times in variable. At first I thought it was the exagerrated amount of taper (30mm I believe) but talking with other guys they told me that's pretty normal and shouldn't effect it much. So now I'm thinking it's the large nose profile or something. Here's a mod a lot of guys use specifically for hard pack.
I tried out a couple splitties with K-clips one was a well used demo the other was a brand new soon to be demo. On the well used demo the clips brought the board halves closer together but did not completely close the gap and did little to improve torsional stiffness. On the newer set-up the clips were much tighter and brought the board halves completely together and improved torsional stiffness but at the same time they were so tight the board was U-ing out and this was with side-walled inners. I would rather have a small gap than a U shaped board but that's just me. I'm guessing over time the clips stretched out a bit. I also didn't care for the flappyness of the clips when stomping out shit on the up. I don't mind the chinese clips I think when something looks simple guys assume it lacks but compare the two set-ups and the chines hooks do just as good of job if not better enhancing torsional stiffness and coming from two DIY where I couldn't move my chinese hooks out of the way for the up I love that option now and use it all the time, super clean.
Joined: Fri Oct 23, 2009 9:38 pm Posts: 819 Location: The Belly of Ham baby!!
I would bet that you are experiencing puck shift.....
I heard that sometimes puck shift can be elicited from an excess of lateral tilt of the DPA angle in which excessive torque can be brought about the TGB angle. This, in essence, can decrease the amount of vaginal torsion that BGnight experiences in between hybrid splitboard/racoon hunting expeditions.
_________________ PROFESSIONAL AMBASSADOR OF STOKE
Joined: Tue Feb 21, 2006 1:57 am Posts: 1110 Location: Santa Barbara, CA/Ashland, OR
BTW, chiming in on this subject. Tom Burt was telling me the gap in the middle of all split boards widens in time. The actual wood core shrinks (or something like that) and also (I'd imagine) the general wear and tear of the board is gonna encourage seperation. I generally just keep the board on an edge in variable, which is the only time I've found it to be catchy (kinda like Utah described..but I've had this issue with every splitty I've owned over the years.
I'm gonna try Barrows suggestion of gently clamping the hooks and resetting the pucks.
Which leads me slightly OT, but why is that plastic template for the puck mounting ALWAYS too wide (IE..the pucks have too much space between them) in the middle? I've never once mounted pucks using it that I didn't have to loosen the screws on and move the pucks ever so slightly together. It seems to me that piece should bring the perfect fit everytime..yet it never does.
_________________ "Winter is not a season, it's an occupation." -Sinclair Lewis
Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2004 8:41 pm Posts: 1622 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Utah..can you tell me more about that mod? Is that a stock aluminum rod cut to length with a hole drilled in it? If so..what size rod did you use?
Also..I'm a weight weenie..so is it heavy?
I've seen that mod before and always wanted to try it out. With the standard touring brackets I don't think you'd want to use aluminum - I'd think the brackets would chew it up as the board flexes. This guy sells one:
Been thinking about trying an aluminum pin with the Spark LT brackets. Wonder if it would put any undue stress on the brackets (other than what you'd typically see in tour mode). The other issue is that depending on the board, your puck alignment, and the alignment of the various other hardware bits, it might be tricky to get the brackets exactly aligned to get the rod through.
Tom Burt was telling me the gap in the middle of all split boards widens in time. The actual wood core shrinks (or something like that) and also (I'd imagine) the general wear and tear of the board is gonna encourage seperation.
I think the idea was that the wood core of a ski or board can shrink over time.. that doesn't matter for a solid board, or for regular skis, but for a split which is really two separate skis that have to be put together, it does matter.
Sorry guys my buddy made me a couple. I did pick up the materials from Home Depot and the rod was easy to find and out of all the sizes to choose from it was pretty obvious which one it was. That's about all I know, pretty sure it's aluminum though and pretty much weighs next to nothing. It works absolutely bomber though you will get absolutely no play in between the bindings, which is where I find most the play to happen. Really only necessary on hard..HARD pack days.
Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2008 11:19 am Posts: 156 Location: Wasatch mountains, UT
I purchased a pair of Karakoram clips early this winter, and installed them on a fresh cut d.i.y. split. I must say, this is the best addition to make my splitboard ride like a solid since spark bindings. Not sure how they work on an older d.i.y. or a factory split for that matter, but they work amazing for me... The torsional stiffness is greater with just the K-clips, then my voile clips and sparks together... Those things suck the half's tiiight! Haven't had an issue with the board folding or anything like that, and the clips are as snug as day 1.
I checked out a buddy's Karakoram bindings, but im not sold yet on the set up- still gotta try em'... Love the Spark R&D's
The rod is 1/4". I wouldn't get aluminum, as the stainless Voile brackets will chew it up pretty quickly. Also, it's pretty flexy and will bend easily. Stainless is a pain to drill holes through, but regular steel is no big deal and won't rust as long as you dry it off after using.
The problem is not the pucks, i think it must be the hooks. The hooks are pretty bad set up from voile, so they are maybe some millimeters away from each other. This means the board halves can flex a bit before the hooks get in touch with each other. I think this will be solved by buying the karakoram hooks, but do you guys have any clue if i can fix this without buying K hooks?