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 Post subject: 2 Mervins and an Option. Now Complete!
PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 9:37 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 12:37 pm
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Location: East of the Cascades, Wa
We finally got a few decent pics off the camera so I figured why not toss these up. Some are blurry because the cam was in Macro mode and we can't tell since the viewing screen is broken haha

Anyways, I got my split kit last winter so i've been waiting on this forever. We chose to use the T-nuts with the ptex on the base. My friend Nick, who is splitting his 2nd board (the brand new, never seen snow Lib snow mullet), thought these would be a great way to go after doing his last with standard t-nuts and epoxy.

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Starting out we built a jig out of MDF (iirc thats the three letters). We took about an hour to make it so it was super simple. We used a table saw to cut all three boards and the jig worked awesome for all of them. Basically for the jig we measured the center line on the board from the edge of the jig. Marked that and used that to measure out the mounting holes. The mount hole distance from center to center on all three were exactly the same, so we used the front holes in the same place each time, then re-drilled the rear for each board. We cut a 154, 159, 162 and a 164 all using the same jig so the hole patterns were all different. It made it really easy to adapt a new board to the jig, and only took about 5-10min to ad a new pair of holes.

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We measured each boards width and marked a center line for reference on blue tape, the main reason just to check how close we got on the jig. We then checked the center distance on all three between the binding holes, and also checked to be sure the front holes were mostly in line with the rears. I have seen people say that their binding holes have been off by a lot, luckily for us, 1-2mm was the most we saw between all 4 boards we cut.

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Nice an straight! We used one test board on the jig to see how it would play out, and also to try and figure out the best way of cutting the tip and tail for my Option, since it had metal edges all around. The lib and Gnu were super easy since the edges didn't go around the edges.

Nick sanding his inside edges. We went 80-100-150 grits
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My option was the biggest bugger of all three, and this was solely due to the metal edges. What we ended up doing was running the board through once with the saw depth set just enough to cut the board. Then at the tail we'd stop it, and slowly raise the blade until it was almost at the edge. Then cut the remainder with a hack saw, filed smooth and sanded like the rest of the edge.

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Checkin my cut on the tip
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All three cut and sanded! We only got that far on the two, Nick had a newer version of the split kit, so after some comparing, I decided to send mine back and get an updated kit. The gnu is my gf's and she hasn't been able to order her kit yet, so once my new one gets in I can get going on mine, and hopefully she can get going on hers soon too.

We got the hooks mounted on Nicks Mullet, and got the biding holes drilled and countersunk. The plan is to epoxy in the t-nuts still as you would with the typical ones and verathane treat the inner edge (Nick did this on his last one and it has lasted well after about 8 tours). I'll update when we get some more done in a few weeks when the new kits get here. :rock:

Here is a off the top of my head list of the tools we used:
-3/4" sheet of MDF - $34
-SVST ptex t-nuts (50pk) + countersink- $not sure on total but it was about 45bucks for the countersink tool so if you need one let me know we have it!
-misc drill bits
-electric drills, drill press, table saw
-squeeze clamps-2 34" ones on 12" one to hold board together when installing hooks
-misc hand tools-screw driver, sanding block, metal file
-shop vac

So we spent about $100 at Lowe's for the MDF, clamps and some hardware. The clamps were about 20+ each so those were the most expensive part. We were also told by the dude at lowes that we could have gotten the MDF elsewhere for much cheaper...haha

All in all it was a super easy process and we ended up with 3 really straight, tight fitting cuts. The drill press was a godsend for drilling the holes, so if you can get your hands on one they do really help get the holes straight, especially the countersinking.

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 Post subject: Re: 2 Mervins and an Option. Phaze 1
PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 11:56 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2005 3:08 pm
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Location: 109-blocks-of-watch-yo-f'n-back, CA
Great post man!
Do you have leftovers of the ptext t-bolts? Would you be interested in selling 16 or so?

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 Post subject: Re: 2 Mervins and an Option. Phaze 1
PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 12:11 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2010 4:11 pm
Posts: 44
Location: Seattle, WA
:bananas: For anyone insterested those are the "snoli" inserts. In the states you can get them at SVST/Racewerks. While the new style voile kits do have the ptex circles you can epoxy over the t-nuts I doubt you will get as clean of a seam as you do with the snoli bit and nuts. There was not anymore then a 1mm gap between any insert and the ptex on the nut. No need to go over it with a base repair gun and zero chance of ever pulling out the ptex with your skins :thumpsup:
I'm sealing up my board this week, had to set it up in the garage in order to put on the varathane since it's in the 20s this week and my garage isn't insulated. We'll get some pics of the snoli insert process on the option when we finish that one up :guinness:

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 Post subject: Re: 2 Mervins and an Option. Phaze 1
PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 12:13 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2010 4:11 pm
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Location: Seattle, WA
breadbox wrote:
Great post man!
Do you have leftovers of the ptext t-bolts? Would you be interested in selling 16 or so?


We should have spares unless I lost some in the back of my car :scratch: I bought 100 of them. I'll take a look at home tonight.
You really do HAVE to use the actual snoli bit to use them though

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The nice people that build my splits
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 Post subject: Re: 2 Mervins and an Option. Phaze 1
PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 1:08 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2005 3:08 pm
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Location: 109-blocks-of-watch-yo-f'n-back, CA
How do I get the bit? I should have access to a drill press.
Would I want to buy or rent this from you somehow?

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 Post subject: Re: 2 Mervins and an Option. Phaze 1
PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 1:24 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2010 4:11 pm
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Location: Seattle, WA
I'd be more then happy to rent it out cheap, but I'll have to talk to Brenden about how soon we can finish Stef's Gnu. I wouldn't be able to send it out until we get all three done. I'll get back to you later this week on that one

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The nice people that build my splits
http://www.chair2boardsports.com


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 Post subject: Re: 2 Mervins and an Option. Phaze 1
PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 2:41 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 12:37 pm
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Location: East of the Cascades, Wa
Nick, disregard last text about t-nuts haha

We can get the holes drilled as soon as my new kit shows up, still waiting on the return to be processed.

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 Post subject: Re: 2 Mervins and an Option. Phaze 1
PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 3:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2005 3:08 pm
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Location: 109-blocks-of-watch-yo-f'n-back, CA
Thanks man, I'll stay in touch!

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 Post subject: Re: 2 Mervins and an Option. Phaze 1
PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 8:24 am 
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Location: Newfoundland
Hey B-P,

How was the nose clip fastened to the Option? Was that base insert in the way?

I have a older Freeplus I'd like to split, it has the same insert.


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 Post subject: Re: 2 Mervins and an Option. Phaze 1
PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 2:56 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2010 4:11 pm
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Location: Seattle, WA
We'll be doing Brenden's tip clips next week once BC gets him the new style split kit. I don't foresee any trouble with the metal piece, just more to drill through :wink:

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The nice people that build my splits
http://www.chair2boardsports.com


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 Post subject: Re: 2 Mervins and an Option. Phaze 1
PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:52 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 12:37 pm
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Location: East of the Cascades, Wa
New kit suppose to arrive at my house tomorrow so this week we should be able to finish up my Option and have all the holes drilled in the GNU. So the bit should be up for rental come the end of the week.

Reports are showing a HUGE storm to hit us on tues...same day my kit shows up...coincidence!?

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 Post subject: Re: 2 Mervins and an Option. Phaze 1
PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 9:52 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 12:37 pm
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Location: East of the Cascades, Wa
SaltBox wrote:
Hey B-P,

How was the nose clip fastened to the Option? Was that base insert in the way?

I have a older Freeplus I'd like to split, it has the same insert.


Are you talking about the metal option logo on the base? That didn't present any issues, the nose clip wasn't close enough to the rivets :thumbsup:

I feel like I can finally post the finished products. I got my Sparks last night and the board is so much more improved i am actually just a hair proud enough to show it off.

My Option was the first that I finished, so it was the worst out of the three haha. The board halves ended up being off a little and with the sparks (tighter interface) its even more noticeable, however this is not enough to actual make the board ride bad so I am plenty happy with it for now. I got a little over zealous with the sanding and got a good low spot on the nose making a pretty good gap, but again with the sparks, the halves are pulled so much tighter together that it is almost a non-issue at this point. On to the pics!

Finished Product
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My gap and offset
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More Detailed pics of the board
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Ptex capped t-nuts worked awesome!
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This shows the front gap, with the slider plates the hooks touched, with the sparks though the board halves are pulled together taking up some of the slack, I'm looking forward to having this held a little tighter!
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Little bit off in the rear, but the hooks are in good and its almost a no light gap for most of the rear section, actually from the front binding back now.
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 Post subject: Re: 2 Mervins and an Option. Now Complete!
PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 10:02 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 12:37 pm
Posts: 139
Location: East of the Cascades, Wa
So now that you saw my first attempt at a split, I would like to show off my much better job haha. This was my gf's board and it was the last to get cut, drilled and mounted up. By the time we had cut 3 boards (1 test and 2 splits) we had the process dialed and it shows in this board. I also had better practice with the drill press and the t-nuts, so all in all, it just came out much better.

The board is a 156 B-Pro, regular camber with Mag edges
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Almost zero offset, and as tight as fit with the hooks as a factory Venture or Voile (just checked out both at 2nd acsent in ballard)
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Used some black pigment I found in the shop and the g-flex epoxy to seal the bottom of the hook bolts (i'm a ski tech up at snoqualmie pass) so I could have a more finished look on the base. Came out very nice imo!
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So far we have been out probably almost 10 times on the splits. Both have been working excellent! They are a bit heavy with the slider plates so we are both getting setup with sparks. We used Climbing Skins Direct skins and have been loving them. Looking forward to splitfest now!!! :rock:

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