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 Post subject: Re: Winterstick ST pics
PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 7:47 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 12, 2009 5:55 pm
Posts: 30
Location: Telluride, CO
:bananas: Thanks from the "crew," aka "the snowboarder builder guy" aka "Dan"

Thanks for all the luv guys, I can't wait to get some trip reports out of you.

I wanted to chime in on the comments, although most of the critiques have been addressed already. Thanks Pedro, hit the reason for the clip and hook bolts on the countersunk head! Never really liked the rivets, much easier to check all your hardware before each tour (like one should anyway) to make sure its tight than to replace/rig a blown rivet. Allen keys (hex heads) i found don't work as well in icy conditions either, not to mention having to carry several different tools that weigh more than the hardware... :twocents:

Love that you called it a "tank" BG. like a hover-tank. :thumpsup:

As for the K-clips stuff, I gotta get those guys to send me a set of clips at least. Not being a huge oz. counter myself when touring, the extra pull and snap could be good. (although i get those hooks tight eh? :mrgreen: ) I haven't had the pleasure of riding the whole Karakorum setup yet but hope to correct that soon.

Anyway, looking forward to a TR, our snowpack is decidedly lackluster here in T-ride. Might have to take a road trip...


And Pedro just made me blush...


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 Post subject: Re: Winterstick ST pics
PostPosted: Sat Feb 19, 2011 10:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 13, 2005 8:05 am
Posts: 1502
Location: 395
Got some new binders for my stick. Btw dendrologic, you need to rivet the tip clips cuz the skin wires wont fit over the screws you used. I had the guys at Sentury hook me up. And what about moving the chinese hooks toward the middle of the board an inch or two more???

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 Post subject: Re: Winterstick ST pics
PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 4:38 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 12, 2009 5:55 pm
Posts: 30
Location: Telluride, CO
Thanks for the feedback BG, I did notice that most skin loops didn't fit over the bolts, but this is easily fixed by bending the loop just a bit ( i used a pair of pliers and a vice) to open up those extra couple of mm. IMHO it is an easy mod that is worth it considering the benefits of a nut and bolt system, i.e. more bomber, and works with tools already usually equipped.

I can put rivets in by request, no prob, but you gotta come with a better reason that 'my skin loops don't fit easily' for me to change the standard production MO. ;)

As for the hook placement, what factors made you want them moved in? I was going for a wide breadth approach and placing them as far out as i could get without getting the upturn in the way, thus placing them at or very near the furthest (and thus highest torqued) point of the main contact area on the board. The tip clips do a bit for solid feel, especially since they have been moved in from the very edge they don't release as much anymore, but they are more elastic in both critical dimensions than the hooks, and so don't contribute to the board's feel as 'one piece.' as much as the hooks.
And to move the hooks in towards the binding pucks and away from the major point of first contact seemed counterproductive.

I will take a closer look at some other approaches, and my curiosity still stands, what makes you want them closer in?


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 Post subject: Re: Winterstick ST pics
PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 13, 2005 8:05 am
Posts: 1502
Location: 395
Yeah, I tried bending my skin wires to no avail as I had no vice. Those suckers are strong! I still prefer to have rivets on the nose and nuts/screws on the tail as the tail is more apt to vibrate loose from past experiences. I don't really want to have to hack my gear to make it work and you really should explain this to the customer prior and give them the option rather than them get out in the field and go "wtf?!" when they try to put their skins on. I think it would be nice if you could find some screws/nuts that are more low profile. I ran into ecobrad today who was on his 166 ST and he was bitching about the wires not going over the nuts too.

As far as the chinese hook placements, I was just asking because the guys at Sentury were wondering why they were so far toward the nose/tail compared to their boards. They thought they should be a little more toward center but your explanation makes sense I guess. I really don't know and don't think it matters tbh. I guess they made me think there was something wrong with it, but I didn't really ask them why they put theirs where they do.

I took it out today in some deeep pow and the flex and weight felt a little out of place, but the subtle rockered nose was hugely noticeable. I ride a rossignol experience which has a huge rockered nose compared to this so it wasn't quite as effective, but just the little bit of early rise on the ST made all the difference for float. The board also felt really poppy off natural features and very stable landing a few small rock drops/rollers. I'm hoping to get down to the eastside this week to test this out where I feel it's meant to be ridden. For deep tree runs with natural hits like today I could think of many other boards I'd rather be riding, but it felt great nonetheless. I bought the board for it's all condition slaying ability on big lines, not for waist deep pow but am happy riding it there for sure!


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