Joined: Thu Nov 20, 2008 9:10 pm Posts: 1410 Location: UT
UPDATE: First off I'm sorry this saga has crossed pollinated into other threads...
Took my Mojo to Voile today, and they hit the tight spots with the stone wheel and got things a bit better... One caution... If the tips are tighter than the waist along the split... You can shave the inner edge at the tips, but BEWARE you don't shave too much, causing the tip and tail clips to be misaligned. Otherwise they may no longer clip together!
Once the guys got it close, I went home and used a file to shave the tight spots a little at a time, rechecking to make sure everything was good. The K clip on the tail section remained problematic, so I oval-ed the mounting holes on the flat half of the K clip to introduce some play. Now its still tight, but not overly so. I'd say I got the board to about 95% kick-assness...
Bottom line, the K clips produce way too much upward force on the boards halves (Cap or Sidewall). Don't take my word for it, watch your board (sans bindings) flex into an upward V as you shut the clips...
I still don't think this is the final word on the board clip conundrum... and I'm going to continue to run a YinYan upfront and K in the back...
_________________ Experts tell me I'm not a serious rider; riding boards that are too long with the incorrect boot and binding setup and I'm not having fun...
Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2008 6:51 am Posts: 687 Location: Surfing or Splitboarding Downunder
Hey Doug, This mod might help. As much as I am an advocate for DIY splits there does seem to be quite a bit of play between board halves especially the older the board gets and mine are super old. I don't think it will effect you much but I use this mod on super firm days. I know some guys who use this all the time even on their factory splitties. Doesn't weigh a thing. I don't mind capped construction but I think the inside edge should definitely be sidewalled just for the fact it will provide more surface area for the board halves to connect on.
Snurfer I use the same thing Utah is refering to. A few picks Cloes up
This eliminates the flexing of the halves between the bindings. Well worth it with no mods needed to install.
_________________ Adam West Board Designer FirstLight +61 (0)413 888 115 http://www.firstlightsnowboards.com.auhttp://www.splitfest.com.auhttp://www.splitfests.comhttp://www.mrbc.comhttp://www.backcountryglobal.com Sydney - Nowra - Jindabyne
Just found this whilst looking for something else.
I have the same problem with the base not matching in the middle. It must be caused by the thickness of the decks not matching, as it's there when the sparks are slid on, and swapping the pucks with a different board doesn't help.
It's not an issue in soft snow, but can be very disconcerting running a flat base on hard snow or groomers. As has been said, you catch an edge in the midlle of the board, it trips you up moving from edge to edge.
I guess it can be solved by shimming out one of the pucks to bring the base into line. Pretty annoying though. This is a warranty replacement for the previous year's delam. I'd have sent it back already, but I'm in the UK and shipping would be dorrar spendy.
2009 is the 2nd year of the non-rockered mojo, is that right? Between the blocky/flat green and the leaf?