I split a salomon 550 last season. No problems yet. But you need to hack saw through the wrap around edges before you cut and make sure the cut is wide enough for the circular saw blade to pass through on the exit - if it hits you can blow some of the edge out.
Then I polyurethaned (with a few light coats) the exposed wood edges so it is protected but won't crack when flexed.
Joined: Sat Aug 06, 2005 5:38 pm Posts: 18 Location: Arlington Massachusetts
I'm attaching a cross-post that illustrates one approach to the splitting process http://timefortuckerman.com/forums/show ... php?t=3405 (post no. 12 in the thread has the pix). By fastening a plywood jig to the board using the binding inserts, I was able to run the board along the fence of the tablesaw for the big cut *and* set the tablesaw blade height to cut under the steel edge of the board, which avoids the blow-out problem. It was easy to come back later and cut the steel leading and trailing edges with the hack saw, finishing with a mill file.
I used crazy glue to seal the wood edges of the cut; held up fine so far.
Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2004 8:41 pm Posts: 1606 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Rider.Steve wrote:
By fastening a plywood jig to the board using the binding inserts, I was able to run the board along the fence of the tablesaw for the big cut *and* set the tablesaw blade height to cut under the steel edge of the board, which avoids the blow-out problem.
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