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June 29th

After climbing Mt Hood Ari and I stopped by Hood River to get some food before the long drive back to Seattle. Once arriving back home I spoke with Amar who informed me that he was interested in tackling Baker the next day and asked if I was interested in joining. It was a no brainier as I hadn’t summit Baker yet this season so we started trying to figure out the best route. Our original intention was the Boulder/Park Cleaver headwall but after receiving some beta we found that a massive shrund wrapped around the whole route so we chose to do the Squak Glacier instead.

The route up the Squak Glacier


We started hiking a little bit before 7 with 2.5 miles of trail before hitting continuous snow. Once we hit the snow we switched over to skinning up the low angled slopes trying to minimize our exposure to crevasses. The route is in great shape with only a few snow bridges along the way and nothing that I would consider to be sketchy. You could tell there was a lot of activity on the route on Sunday but a day later we had the whole route to ourselves. The snow hadn’t soften like we expected so once we arrived at the crater we switched over to cramponing up the Roman Headwall for the final 1000 vert. Once arriving at summit proper we rested and considered dropping into the boulder glacier but decided against doing it blindly so we got our gear together and dropped into the Roman headwall.
Amar skinning up with the Sisters to the West

Amar skinning to the Crater

Hiking across the flat slopes on the summit

Looking into the crater to the east

Looking to the NE




We expected the snow to be firm because of the wind blasting on the face but were surprised to find it edgeable. After riding down the Headwall we found ourselves on the low angle slopes of the squak glacier delivering perfect smooth corn for over 2500 feet before becoming suncupped for the final 1500 feet back to the trail.

Amar skiing down the Roman headwall and Squak Glacier




Now here I am packing up for a week long trip and the final chapter of the second Raid


Sorry about blowing up the Trip report forum

we would expect nothing less from you mr miller! but now you set the bar pretty high, if i see another TR from you im gonna expect like 6 more to follow and then feel jonsed if there are none.

thanks for all the stoke. way to get after it in the pnw!

diggin' all the cascade stoke! Youve been killing it lately!

Thanks for the kind comments.
Now I have to take some time to type up my latest adventure its not 6 differnt trips but it definetly is a epic.

i don't mind you blowing up the forum with reports like that. super cool!

now for a question that will show my noob age... what exactly is a shrund?

A shrund is the shortened name for a bergshrund.
A Bergshrund is the highest and usually deepest crevasse on a Glacier.

You know when its late season and the snow pack on a steep slope starts to seperate and a crack opens up this is the same logic behind a shrund only its a few hundred feet deep.


Here is a great example of a shrund

Hopefully this helps

ok cool thanks for the explanation. it makes sense why it would usually be the deepest crack also.

i'm guessing you have to be on full alert this time of year...