Post subject: Volcano Raid Round 2: part 6 Mt Baker
Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 11:33 am
Joined: Mon Feb 25, 2008 12:40 pm Posts: 505
After climbing Mt Hood Ari and I stopped by Hood River to get some food before the long drive back to Seattle. Once arriving back home I spoke with Amar who informed me that he was interested in tackling Baker the next day and asked if I was interested in joining. It was a no brainier as I hadn’t summit Baker yet this season so we started trying to figure out the best route. Our original intention was the Boulder/Park Cleaver headwall but after receiving some beta we found that a massive shrund wrapped around the whole route so we chose to do the Squak Glacier instead.
The route up the Squak Glacier
We started hiking a little bit before 7 with 2.5 miles of trail before hitting continuous snow. Once we hit the snow we switched over to skinning up the low angled slopes trying to minimize our exposure to crevasses. The route is in great shape with only a few snow bridges along the way and nothing that I would consider to be sketchy. You could tell there was a lot of activity on the route on Sunday but a day later we had the whole route to ourselves. The snow hadn’t soften like we expected so once we arrived at the crater we switched over to cramponing up the Roman Headwall for the final 1000 vert. Once arriving at summit proper we rested and considered dropping into the boulder glacier but decided against doing it blindly so we got our gear together and dropped into the Roman headwall. Amar skinning up with the Sisters to the West
Amar skinning to the Crater
Hiking across the flat slopes on the summit
Looking into the crater to the east
Looking to the NE
We expected the snow to be firm because of the wind blasting on the face but were surprised to find it edgeable. After riding down the Headwall we found ourselves on the low angle slopes of the squak glacier delivering perfect smooth corn for over 2500 feet before becoming suncupped for the final 1500 feet back to the trail.
Amar skiing down the Roman headwall and Squak Glacier
Now here I am packing up for a week long trip and the final chapter of the second Raid