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 Post subject: 9mm or 7mm ptex T-nut?
PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 8:58 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 7:33 pm
Posts: 2
I'm in the process of doing a DIY split to a 176 F2 respect and have read several of the forums about the wood screws ripping out. I've got a box of 50 9mm p-tex covered tnut's coming from winterstieger...just wanted to make sure that I was ordering the right size or should I have gotten the 7mm? Also since I only need 20 of them and they seem to be hot item on here, would any one want to pick up the extra 30 off of me? I'll sell them for what I paid, and also lend out the countersink drill bit that goes with it for a refundable deposit.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 6:08 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:55 pm
Posts: 925
Location: socal
Measure your board thickness, 2mm is almost .08 of an inch. You should be able to tell if those will poke too far thru. Can you chop them down shorter if you need?

Typically, longer the board, thicker the core inside.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 7:04 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2008 7:51 pm
Posts: 219
Location: Park City
hey moe,

I'm interested if they are still available.

FYI - sometimes the p-tex rips off the tnut over time (sometimes they don't....don't ask me why) leaving the shear metal base of the tnut exposed (better than the alternative choppy-based voile tnut, i suppose). I've tried metalgrip (tognar) and straight ptex on the exposed metal and both seem to eventually pull off too (the ptex faster)...

anyway, I also ended up having to epoxy the ptexed tnuts into the countersunk holes to get them to stick well enough for a good solid wrench on the screws; otherwise those little teeth kept stripping out, even with the specified bit.

despite all that, they still look pretty good....

let me know if you're experiences work out different.... or the same.

let me know how much you want for the tnuts

thanks,
brian


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:19 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 11:42 am
Posts: 529
Location: Oakland, CA
Monk151 wrote:
FYI - sometimes the p-tex rips off the tnut over time (sometimes they don't....don't ask me why) leaving the shear metal base of the tnut exposed (better than the alternative choppy-based voile tnut, i suppose). I've tried metalgrip (tognar) and straight ptex on the exposed metal and both seem to eventually pull off too (the ptex faster)...

anyway, I also ended up having to epoxy the ptexed tnuts into the countersunk holes to get them to stick well enough for a good solid wrench on the screws; otherwise those little teeth kept stripping out, even with the specified bit.


Man, my skins pulled the ptex off 3 of the tnuts in my board! I used the same Snoli ptex tnuts that monk had in his shop.

I've heard mixed things about straight epoxy ... seems like if I find a slow enough cure epoxy it will stick to the metal? Wonder if it's worth taking a dremel to add some texture to the smooth base of the metal tnut before applying epoxy.

Seems like metal grip + ptex candle will still pull out eventually????


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 Post subject: Re: 9mm or 7mm ptex T-nut?
PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:57 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2008 11:19 am
Posts: 156
Location: Wasatch mountains, UT
I had the ptex rip out of one nut on the first ride on my freshly split board this season. I was bummed to say the least...I tried filling it with regular ptex as well and it didn't seem to hold for more than a day. I got some Marine epoxy and sanded the metal on the tnut and roughed it up real good... The marine epoxy has held up to skin ripping and rocks great all winter, did the job well. Rides fine too, and i don't notice any drag.
Image

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 Post subject: Re: 9mm or 7mm ptex T-nut?
PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 7:57 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 11:42 am
Posts: 529
Location: Oakland, CA
Thanks Neil, I think I'll go that route.

Everyone is always predispositioned to be concerned about drag - I had those Voile metal tnuts totally uncovered last year with the screw sticking through the middle and everything, they worked fine. It's not drag I get concerned with at all, just to make that clear to people thinking DIY's.

It's properly watersealing and structurally protecting the core wood that are primary issues. Providing a smooth surface for skins without "traps" for snow dirt and rocks are another benefit as well.


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 Post subject: Re: 9mm or 7mm ptex T-nut?
PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 11:40 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2004 1:08 pm
Posts: 378
Location: near munich
Take 9 mm better - the overstand milled a way... dont foget to bay the orginal insert driller it is expensive ..l.

and second make a mounting tool - a pice of POM 40 mm Q 10 mm high , with a 6,2 mm hole , and a hole 8,5 mm 3 mm deep from the uper side . this tool helps you mounted the insert corectly pull the insert in the board...... with a bolt .

for glueing is cyanarcylate the best .


Burton

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 Post subject: Re: 9mm or 7mm ptex T-nut?
PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 9:09 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:24 pm
Posts: 11
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Lengths depends on the thickness of the board but usually 9mm are better. There are two things you can do to improve the instillation. Use a 24 hour slow set epoxy (I recommend Montana from the company Montana) and use a t-nut puller instead or hammering them in. They are hard to find but do a great job. If you can't find one use a socket wrench on the t-nut to hammer it in and it usually sinks in straighter than hammering the t-nut directly. Good luck!


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