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On Tuesday I headed out from the Whitney Portal with the intention of doing the north couloir of Mt Muir. I knew the southern portions of the range hadn't been getting nearly as much snow as the Mammoth area this year, but was hoping the higher elevations would be filled in.

Right now, the Whitney Portal Road is melted out for about three miles past the 'road closed' sign, though I'm not sure about the legality of driving it.

From there, a nice gentle climb brought me to a bench above Consultation Lake, where I set up camp.

Nightfall (Mt Muir is the highpoint in the center):


Moonrise:




Sunrise:


some product placement:


From camp, I still couldn't see the couloir. It's tucked away behind the east buttress. After breakfast I headed out to get a better look at it.

First view:


closer:


Yeah.
Not one, but two cliffs still in there. The lower one could probably be negotiated, but not the upper. This one will have to wait for another day.

So I decided to at least try to summit still, from the backside. I followed the Whitney trail along the ridge, and up towards Mt Muir.

Views:


The summit block:


As I got closer to it, I found big ledges and easy climbing. Then, about 20 feet from the top ran into a section that I wasn't willing to do in mountaineering boots.
I'm beginning to realize the downside of having a hard sole. While it may be nice for climbing snow, they don't do too well on rock. And I found myself wishing I had my regular snowboard boots.

So I climbed down, around the corner, and back up again. Still couldn't find a comfortable way to the summit. Now I'm 0 for 2 for the day. Figured it would be best to get out of there.

Next time.

I was just thinking of sending you a PM titled, "so whadya hit?".

Would the couloir have been a go with a partner and raps? Looks really nice otherwise.

Great pics too! I foresee some BD catalog submissions in the works!

ps. need to chat on the phone soon about a couple things.

Sweet pics BCD...are permits required to hit that in winter?

Can you elaborate on your selected summit block route(s)? I was under the impression that there were several Class 3 variations to the top (although quickly becoming Class 4 without proper routefinding). So I am really wondering what type of terrain you encountered where a snowboard boot would have been more advantageous than a mountaineering boot? What type of boot did you use?

I personally wouldn't want a snowboard boot for class 3 such as...

this, on the way back from summit of Tyndall (my first splitboard descent).

Let me get this straight. You lugged that tripod all the way up there to TAKE a picture of it?

j/k

You do need a permit, but they're easy to get in the winter. The advance reservation/lottery process doesn't start until May or June.




It is class three. There's a slabby traverse near the top, and I just couldn't trust my feet.
In tennis shoes, I wouldn't have even thought twice about it. But I haven't spent enough time climbing in my boots to have figured out the balance.

Most of the time it's not a big deal, but it becomes problematic on slick, slabby rock.
With a soft sole, as your heel rises up the front of the foot can stay flat. That leaves more surface touching the rock, and better traction. With a hard sole, as your heel rises up the boot just tilts and you get less and less traction as you step forward.

When I started across the slab, the only thing touching the rock was just the edge of the sole. So I chickened out.

glad you were sensible (not chickening out!) not climbing that section considering you were alone (?)

im noticing two things....looks like the tripod legs are poles? nice! and it also looks like to the left of the main line if it was filled in enough that would go also.

anyway nice work. hope you git er done one of these days!

So u were already on summit plateau?

Not meaning to critique, likely over-analyzing conditions/boots fueled by hard boot contemplation thread, and weight of my setup.

One must always listen to the 'internal voice',it has self-preservation in mind!

Nice. I expect to see some of those pics in a BD catalog soon! Also like the ski pole tripod idea.

Um... where's this?

This is an amazing picture!


and of course I had the same thought as everybody else! Black Diamond Catalog!

I have to say you are a great photographer and you know what I would love!?

A slideshow of some of your gems at the Splitboard party!

that mt muir line looks so good!......if it had snow

seriously, have you submittted any of your sweet tent shots to BD?

Awesome photos.

I guess the rock in that area is so jaw dropping you got no questions on riding. So I will ask (since you haven't gotten enough questions yet ), how much were you able to ride (upper, lower, whatever)? Looks as bony as expected. Glad you played it safe.