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Has anyone ever had to replace the laces in their Driver X boots? Mine are starting to fray and have gotten worse just in the past couple of time riding them. At first it was just the upper zone laces in one spot and I was able to put some tape around the lace to help it out but now the lower zone is doing the same things and I can't do the tape thing. Any ideas? Thanks.

Haven t had trouble with my X's yet, but I've heard Burton customer care will mail you a replacement set (of laces). I've also heard of people replacing with the Kelty spectra cord. (weee glow in the dark laces!)

They will send you new laces but it is a pain to get them in if not sometimes impossible.
Make sure they send you extra because once the elastic outer area gets bunched up its impossible to put the laces in.

Yeah I was wondering how much of a pain it is to re-lace them.

Facing the same issue, it doesnt look easy.

Replacing these laces sucks balls. I've had to replace every single on of them. Three this season alone

I'm certain I'm not yanking too hard on them.

I've used rebar tie-wire to guide the new laces through the little white tubes. This last round of replacements were performed by a shop as I'm sick of fuckin' with 'em. The laces were free but he labor cost a few beers.

Burton is on my shitlist

However, I ride with a few splitters who've had no issues with their drivers

I'm only on day 7 or so on my X's and the left one is starting to fray in the lower zone. I've yet to replace 'em though....why don't you go first and tell me how it is

Guy from burton said to fold some fishing line in half, then stick that through the lace guides, and pull the lace throught that way, im going to give it a go when my replacements arrive.

Cool, thanks for the advice. I called burton today and they are sending me replacement laces. I'll let you know how it goes.

I just replaced 3 of my laces last week. I wasn't too worried about the frayed laces failing, but it got so that the sheathing would bunch up and not pull tight.

The laces were $5 for a pair and they gave me the lace threader copper loop thingy. It wasn't a big deal.

1. Cut off the old laces - here I was worried about cutting the attachment loop but just be careful.

2. Pull the old laces out.

3. Thread the new laces in. It looks like my boots have plastic sleeves where the laces thread so I didn't even need the lace threader thingy. Just a bit of patience.

4. Retie the laces to the attachment. The original laces were attached with an overhand knot that was on top of the loop attachment point. I just just used a bowline leaving some room for removal next time. Here is where I used the lace threader thingy to thread the lace through the lower attachment point which was hard to reach.

This happened on both my boots. Since I got mine at the local shop and they will fix or repair the boots for life, I took 'em down. One of the boots was a pretty easy fix, but the other had to be sent back to Burton for repair. I heard next year's model will be using a slightly different system (on the loop holes) to avoid this problems. On mine, it was just the sheathing that failed.

The shop rep said Burton claims most people are jerking the laces too hard, which I think is bullshit, especially w/mine. Apparently jerking on the laces causes the loops to fray the material. I think the material rubs against the tonge of the boot and frays........

Got my laces the other day and just finished re-lacing them. Was a lot easier than I expected. Did both zones on both boots.

Broke another one, and this time threaded it through with some fishing line. Pretty easy Attaching the lower zone to the loop attachment point was a major PITA. Didn't have the loop threader thing though