Splitboard.com Forums

This question is specifically to monk but also open for everyones

I'm thinking of selling my Prior BC to a buddy and spliting a Burton T6. It's my solid board and I love it. What I don't know is if you can split a board made with burtons Aluifly core.
Any thoughts.

I could be talking out of my ass here - it´s happened before, and will again - but I can´t see why that board with that core can´t be split. If I´m not mistaken, the core on the T6 is all alu, right? If that´s the case, it would just be a bitch to cut through.

i could be talking out of my ass too but wouldn't the screw holes for the bindings right in the middle of the boards make it hard to split a burton? can you just saw right through those?

Dan

Yes, you can!

peacefrog, please post some pics of your monked board if you go through with this. thanks!

Pulled the trigger on a 164 wide burton T6 yesterday and it's on it's way to monk151. I'm super to see how it comes out. I'm thinking the aluminum honeycomb core should make a sweet split. Honeycombs big yeah yeah yeah

I really hope monk puts up a split-making TR. I love Burton T6's ... broke one earlier in the month and got a used Supermodel to replace it ... but too wide at the waist and too much sidecut for high-precision riding. Which is too bad since a Supermodel is exactly what I used to make my split (that I have not ridden yet).

If this works out for you, I will know exactly what I intend to do for my third split - a Burton monk6!!!

I'd be very curious on details of a T6 split... I have a T6 159 that I'm thinking could be a future candidate for a split, if it's at all possible due to the aluminum honeycomb core... And mine is a 2008, with the cushioned smooth ride pads on it.

To further add... would it be possible for Monk to add a bit of taper (like 4-5mm) to a non-tapered board, by cutting then slightly grinding on an angle the inside of each half ?

cheers

while we're waiting for some monk photos ...

Here are photos of a really sweet T6 that I split in February!










Unfortunately this kind of split doesn't skin very well though

I broke my t6 earlier this season as well worst of all on a groomer
while I loved the board I would be concerned that it is too fragile

I had a friend break one, also in the tail like mine. I think at the waist where the honeycomb is decently thick, it's a strong board, but at the transition in the layup from honeycomb to just composite sheets there is probably a strong discontinuity in modulus and stress concentration. I mean, I hit a tree mostly horizontally right at the waist, perfectly flat against the base - and the thing didn't break there, but it broke at the tail where the board was pressing into the snow with my back foot as the critical stress.

Just got an A-frame and when my back is healed (a *different* and more scary tree incident) I'll see how that compares.

Basically, I like my freeride boards to be narrow-waisted without too deep of a sidecut, stiff, and damp enough to plow through crud and crust. T6 doesn't have a very large sidecut, but it does make up for it with a shallow sidecut. I've heard nothing but good things about the A-frame, and I hope the ride is similar.

And for those of you who would mention Donek Freeride Incline when I say "narrow waisted" - yeah, I know about it and am curious to try it, but can you get a Donek Incline with 2 year warranty after tax and shipping from Evogear for $258?

wow... how did that actually happen? i've got an '08 T6 that's taken a beating but still in one solid piece... curious so i can perhaps avoid a similar fate...

don't hit trees

edit: or ride groomers!