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Stoked. Very stoked.


:blink:

Ive always had my binding ratchets on the outside. But the way the pin slides in with the ignition 2's it wont clear the risers. I just reversed the bindings so the ratchets are on the inside since there doesnt seem to really be a right and a left on these bindings? I've thought about adjusting the pucks, but setting them up was a major pain in the ass...I think the holes on my prior were drilled mismatched, but thats another topic altogether. anyways, It seems the bindings kick ass, just wondering if I could make them more kick ass by getting the ratchets on the outside somehow. It worked alright today going down a 45 degree blind rollover

Hey AK,
You can switch the pins between your left and right feet and have them insert from the outside rather than the inside, then you can have your buckles on the outside with your forward angled back foot. I send the pins the other way because I like how the pin leashes don't get slack in them. There are more options here: http://www.sparkrandd.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/ignition-binding-setup-guidex1.pdf

I could go for some 45degree blind rollover right now, got pix?

These bindings look SICK!!!!! Revolutionary to be exact!

That's because that's they way they are supposed to go!



A splitboard with ICS (infinite channel system) would make it MUCH easier but Burton won't listen.



My solution was easy. Remove the pin leashes and insert the pins from the outside. Done.

Pin leashes are for noobs anyway.

Welcome to the forum Neil! Nice avatar too! How about posting a large version too? Maybe in the welcome wagon thread.

I'm sure you're aware but you've got the wrong pin in. That one should be on the front foot coming in from the outside.

I was just taking a quick pic... I have to run two "left" pins... because i use a positive angle... and can't insert the pin from the inside...

Last weekend i spent a few hours tweaking the setup... filing down the touring plates... sanding down the inside of the bindings... now everything is super smooth... inserts smoothly... no loosy... clamps on the touring brackets with no effort and no loosness... No more scratching of the pins because voile punched a hole that left a small rim on the bracket that messed up my pins... GRRRR!

But now i'm ready... the new board will be lighter then the old burton... but i'm sure i'll somehow miss the quick and easy system from the old burton... but the new Spark rock... and the board is a lot lighter then the previous one...

So yeah... I can't wait to try it out for good! Might take it to the resort this weekend just to test it out.

Many people have switched the pins to insert from the outside (myself included). The downside is that you can't run the leash the way it is currently if you do this. You can run leashless like bcrider, but the day he loses a pin in the bc will be marked on this forum in infamy. Alternatively, you could use something elastic like a hair tie and secure it to one of the holes in the baseplate. Here's my setup, note that I replaced the toe strap with a Burton capstrap, and the end of the ratchet has a handy-dandy place to tie off said hair tie. BTW, if I just suggested fixing something with a hair tie, does that make me a hippie??




Ahh! I noticed that too but didn't pinpoint the source. I'll have to bust out the file.

I won't take the credit on this... Will saw it before me and i looked into it over the weekend... Will's the MAN!

Question for Will or any others...

In terms of hardware for the Ignition Baseplates (I or II) what hellcups/highbacks will work with these other thean bent metal? It seems people have had luck with Drake and Gnu as well.

I REALLy want the baseplates and have acesss to a graveyard of old bindings and could go search hundreds for heelcups and parts between friends basements.

Thanks!

Hi Torn66,
I've seen a few guys on here rolling with Burton highbacks, although they still used the bent metal heel loop. I've seen a few Drakes and some Nitro highbacks used as well. If you've got a whole graveyard to work with I'd say go for baseplates only and tinker away. If it turns out you can't get anything to fit I'll sell you the rest of the parts for the difference. You can check out the baseplate hole patterns on our FAQ page http://www.sparkrandd.com/bindings/frequently-asked-questions/.

I really like these binders, but yet I really like the rome binders I have right now. Any chance that other sparks will be coming out? Or should I just look for a good deal on binders and buy the baseplates? Does Prior sell the baseplates, or just completes?